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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

kolecho

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Finmeresco has a great hand and drape, but fairly heavy (at least in its 4 ply iteration). Depending on your tolerance for heat, it may be too much. I've heard a little bit of buzz around the Explorer book lately, but can't speak to it firsthand.
Paone has made up both Explorer and Fox Air for the same client. Initial feedback from client and my own observation at fittings suggest Fox Air drapes much better.
 

Concordia

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Finmeresco has a great hand and drape, but fairly heavy (at least in its 4 ply iteration). Depending on your tolerance for heat, it may be too much. I've heard a little bit of buzz around the Explorer book lately, but can't speak to it firsthand.
I did a few things from the 4-ply when it first came out. Not something I'd need to do again. It is the new 'High-Twist' part of the book that I find interesting. Light, looks like fine tropical, but is very wrinkle-resistant and breathes well.
 

Marshak

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Hi friends

I’m planning to commission a high twist spring/summer suit in light grey and I’m trying to decide between the following books. Appreciate any thoughts

- Smith Woolens Abacus
- Dugdale Tropicalair
- Standeven Explorer
- Fox Air (although mark up is nuts)

I also really like Drapers 4ply, but there doesn’t appear to be the right shade of light/silver grey.

Cheers!
Would recommend Crispaire. Decent weight for a spring/summer fabric, it drapes nicely and the bunch has a nice silver grey iteration.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @FlyingHorker,

I am citing makers rather than sources, starting from the last:

a) Drapers: my tailor has not yet received the updated overcoating bunch, but Drapers have done a wonderful job with their new site; there, you may find 2 grand-scale PoW overcoating fabrics, one in (dark) beige and the other in mid-grey. They come in a wool-mix at 550grams.

b) Loro Piana: the image has been posted a lot of times in this thread, Hallmadden(dot)com in their exquisite site may give you an idea. In the "Pecora Nera" Book, you may also find a grand-scale PoW overcoating fabric in beige: it is a 100%wool at 500grams.

c) Ermenegildo Zegna: there is also a mid-brown grand-scale PoW overcoating fabric in the new seasonal collection (Anteprima FW 2020-21), I have not noted its specs, but I have the image from the Book which I am posting here below:

1600417936257.png


Best,

Dimitris
 

SpaceFunk

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Hi guys, what fabric bunches should I look at for a herringbone flannel or tweed like the one used in this sports coat? I like how close up it has some speckles of colour.

Thanks!

 

FlyingHorker

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Dear @FlyingHorker,

I am citing makers rather than sources, starting from the last:

a) Drapers: my tailor has not yet received the updated overcoating bunch, but Drapers have done a wonderful job with their new site; there, you may find 2 grand-scale PoW overcoating fabrics, one in (dark) beige and the other in mid-grey. They come in a wool-mix at 550grams.

b) Loro Piana: the image has been posted a lot of times in this thread, Hallmadden(dot)com in their exquisite site may give you an idea. In the "Pecora Nera" Book, you may also find a grand-scale PoW overcoating fabric in beige: it is a 100%wool at 500grams.

c) Ermenegildo Zegna: there is also a mid-brown grand-scale PoW overcoating fabric in the new seasonal collection (Anteprima FW 2020-21), I have not noted its specs, but I have the image from the Book which I am posting here below:

View attachment 1460750

Best,

Dimitris
Thanks again Dimitris.

I could only find sources for Drapers, their website is definitely accessible.

I found a PoW check coat, but not a giant version.


They mention it's an overcoating bunch, but then also mention it's 99g/m, which is weird.

Though this does give me an idea on where and who to contact to find such fabrics.
 

konstantis

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Anyone know of any sources for "giant" patterned cloths for overcoating? Or heavily textured/marled ones.


Marling Evans Natural collection at 700 grms pure wool has what you are serching . The prices are true bargain and the fabric is really beautiful for overcoats.
 

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FlyingHorker

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Marling Evans Natural collection at 700 grms pure wool has what you are serching . The prices are true bargain and the fabric is really beautiful for overcoats.
exactly what I'm looking for! thanks man

the belted coat up there is great too.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Thanks again Dimitris.

I could only find sources for Drapers, their website is definitely accessible.

I found a PoW check coat, but not a giant version.


They mention it's an overcoating bunch, but then also mention it's 99g/m, which is weird.

Though this does give me an idea on where and who to contact to find such fabrics.

Dear @FlyingHorker,

My pleasure!

The Drapers' site must have a glitch, trust me, this is the one, the weight is exactly what I wrote above: 550grams. As far as the scale of the PoW check is concerned, I can measure it for you should my tailor timely receives the updated Drapers overcoating bunch.

And yes, the swatches that our fellow @konstantis has just posted above are great and spot on for your purposes!

Wishing you all the best for this project,

Dimitris
 

FlyingHorker

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Dear @FlyingHorker,

My pleasure!

The Drapers' site must have a glitch, trust me, this is the one, the weight is exactly what I wrote above: 550grams. As far as the scale of the PoW check is concerned, I can measure it for you should my tailor timely receives the updated Drapers overcoating bunch.

And yes, the swatches that our fellow @konstantis has just posted above are great and spot on for your purposes!

Wishing you all the best for this project,

Dimitris
I'll take your word for it, a lot of these fabric companies seem lagging behind in terms of the internet.

A picture would work I think, I struggle to think in terms of measurements.

Thanks man. The magee tweed I ordered has been backordered till Oct. 15.

If this M&E cloth is easily available and also for a reasonable price, I may just get a refund and get that instead.
 

konstantis

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Marling Evans has a nice customer service . The have send me swatches free of charge. The natural collection is undyed wool fabrics and are really beautiful for overcoating . Marling evans sells direct to individuals and if a remeber , prices were lower than 40-50 euro per meters .
 

FlyingHorker

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Marling Evans has a nice customer service . The have send me swatches free of charge. The natural collection is undyed wool fabrics and are really beautiful for overcoating . Marling evans sells direct to individuals and if a remeber , prices were lower than 40-50 euro per meters .
Holy crap. Ok now I'm unreasonably excited.

I was expecting 150euros per metre at minimum.

24oz wool at such a nice fabric and pattern is insane. Already shot off an e-mail.
 

konstantis

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Holy crap. Ok now I'm unreasonably excited.

I was expecting 150euros per metre at minimum.

24oz wool at such a nice fabric and pattern is insane. Already shot off an e-mail.
Yes merchants sell the fabrics 3 times more than the mills. Please let me know that price you get.
 

FlyingHorker

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Yes merchants sell the fabrics 3 times more than the mills. Please let me know that price you get.
For sure man, I will keep you all posted.

Though I admit this bespoke cloth process has me annoyed at how indecisive I am.
 

Stanacle

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How to become a member of Marling Evans and buy the fabrics from them?
 

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