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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those are other kinds of divots.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This photo was the profile I used to make a Polo a few years ago. Very broad peaks, framed pockets with flaps, cuffs on sleeves, changed to 3X3 on the buttons, not 4X4. What you guys haven't mentioned is the split sleeve. The sleeve has an overlapped seam that meets with the shoulder seam of the coat.

    IIRC the back had a kick pleat rather than a plain vent and don't recall if the belt was loose or sewn down. I think loose. Can't remember what else we did on the back. Overall the coat was very full.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Need some answers to this as well.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How wide is too wide is arbitrary. You have to consider the overall proportion of shoulder to chest to waist to hip. Add to the mix your tolerance for styling and how the shoulder width works to balance out your overall proportions. Like Manton said, some benefit from an extended shoulder and others not so much.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. scruff

    scruff Senior member

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    You'll get a ton of mileage out of it in/around SF. I wear just the jacket more often than as the full suit.

    Here it is (from when I first had it made up by Ercole's last year) -
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    3 people like this.
  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Can anyone ID this fabric? It seems somewhat similar to a pattern in Hardy's Worsted Alsport, but with a blue stripe instead of red.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  7. badsha

    badsha Senior member

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    Minnis Fresco 0520? :inlove:
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    I have something sort of similar in my basement that I'd like to have made into a jacket eventually, mabe a touch more golden overall, and the check that looks almost black on your picture is green... how true is the colour of that picture? I got it from a wholesaler and the only info that could be provided was that it was 100% wool and Italian, which I don't know is true. I would be interested to know as well.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Who is this coat made by? I think that's a P on the tag, is that Panico?
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    It's by Cesare Palermo, the former right hand man of Vincenzo Attolini when they were both at Rubinacci. I have some photos of his workshop, and have been meaning to write an article for StyleForum's blog (actually have a couple article I owe to Fok), but have been too busy lately do a proper piece. The stuff I saw in his workshop, however, was really remarkable. If I were to be able to go to Naples on a more consistent basis, he'd be the first tailor I'd go to.

    And no, he doesn't travel, or have a website. I honestly don't even know if he has a telephone.

    As for inlandisland's question of whether those colors are true to life, I don't know. It's been too long for me to remember that specific jacket in such detail. I like how the color is in the photo, however, and am considering getting something like it for myself.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He was one of my favorite tailors in the O'Mast video. My Italian friend filled in some of his comments that didn't make the translation. Kindred spirit.
     
  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    +1. Definitely old-skool!

    Panico was pretty cool as well.
     
  13. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    One liability funded:

    (13oz London Lounge RAF PoW Brisa)

    [​IMG]

    Two liabilities added to the closet:

    (13oz London Lounge Linen PoW Suiting)

    Seasons be damned, I can't wait to have these linens made up for LA's permanent summer.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That looks great, who made it?
     
  15. forex

    forex Senior member

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    coolal, are those LL linens? How do you like them? Stiff or soft and spongy? I am thinking about brown PoW so feedback would be appreciated.
     
  16. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Thanks, Richard Lim in Los Angeles made it. I posted additional pics as an update to this review thread I started last year:

    Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor - PLUS - Finished Navy Summer Jacket Pics



    Forex, yes they are LL linens. Specifically the "Cypress" and "Oakmont". I absolutely love the fabric. It has a bit of body and drapes nicely. It's not exactly spongy, but does border on it. It's very soft though and breathes well. Couldn't be happier.
     
  17. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I am total Jelly when I see LL special clothes.
     
  18. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    If it's any consolation, I think Minnis Fresco and H&S Crispaire are much, much better than Brisa and come in almost all the same colors.
     
  19. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Why Crispaire? I haven't handled Brisa, but Crispaire seemed rather uninteresting to me for anything other than practical suiting.
     
  20. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Me too. Cantabrigian, I'm curious about your comment. For instance, the LL cloths are typically much heavier than the others you mentioned. A heavy fresco seems like a good idea, though I can understand why it wouldn't have broad appeal.
     

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