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Concordia

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Gents,

This has taken a while but the samples are finally looking good.

I would like to do a run of Minnis mockleno jacketing 100% wool 300g that is woven in two tones of blue threads of navy and midnight. The result is a dark navy tone that is slightly darker than a standard navy suiting. My best effort photos are attached. ETA before Christmas.

Please PM if you are interested. Thanks!
Pic on the left has three shades-- light-ish navy, your blend, and midnight?
 

winghus

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Ivory silk tussah jacket funded. This was a redo after the tailor messed up the lapels of the last one. Tbis has a subtle double pick stitch, great drape and feels surprisingly light for a cloth that supposedly weighs 350-400 grams per metre View attachment 1436169 View attachment 1436170 View attachment 1436171 View attachment 1436172 View attachment 1436173
I think my preference would have been vertical instead of horizontal but I'm not adventurous sartorially.
 

The Chai

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I think my preference would have been vertical instead of horizontal but I'm not adventurous sartorially.
I did not actually specify whether the grain would be horizontal or vertical but the recent examples I have seen of a silk tussah jacket by Drake and the famous Rubinacci DB from the 30s has the silk grain sewn horizontally
 

FlyingHorker

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2F11-31_92d8d714-7340-4280-b3ff-bdad572faf7c_1024x1024.jpeg


Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.

How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I've had mid-blue pieces before that turned out to be terrible, especially in linen.

I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.

I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.

Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.

If it looks something like this, then I feel like that would work, but I am open to opinions.

Image151_c5b86293-36aa-46f4-ba17-d6a8d8dd5572.jpg
 

The Chai

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2F11-31_92d8d714-7340-4280-b3ff-bdad572faf7c_1024x1024.jpeg


Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.

How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I've had mid-blue pieces before that turned out to be terrible, especially in linen.

I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.

I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.

Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.

If it looks something like this, then I feel like that would work, but I am open to opinions.

Image151_c5b86293-36aa-46f4-ba17-d6a8d8dd5572.jpg
Im not a fan of a mid blue overcoat. I feel like with overcoats your want to to tie your outfit down. Perhaps a navy donegal?
 

FlyingHorker

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Im not a fan of a mid blue overcoat. I feel like with overcoats your want to to tie your outfit down. Perhaps a navy donegal?
I was thinking of navy donegal too, but my tailor didn't have that fabric available.

I haven't asked him if he takes outside fabrics either, or how many metres that would require. He said a longer overcoat for me would have to be 45 inches.
 

dieworkwear

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Would look better if that had a greyer cast. A very cold looking dark blue. As a mid-blue, esp with those brighter yarns, it feels kind of meh.
 

FlyingHorker

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Would look better if that had a greyer cast. A very cold looking dark blue. As a mid-blue, esp with those brighter yarns, it feels kind of meh.
I'll ask him tomorrow how much he charges if I supply the fabric.

I found some reasonably priced ones at magee.


What about one of those in terms of versatility?

72786491_140911857262988_1627583641845240055_n.jpg


Was picturing a similiarly designed coat. I feel like it would look good worn open or closed due to being single breasted and belted.
 

dieworkwear

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I'll ask him tomorrow how much he charges if I supply the fabric.

I found some reasonably priced ones at magee.


What about one of those in terms of versatility?

72786491_140911857262988_1627583641845240055_n.jpg


Was picturing a similiarly designed coat. I feel like it would look good worn open or closed due to being single breasted and belted.

Not into the blue Magees ones I've handled.

London Lounge had an excellent blue tweed, but I don't know if's available anymore. Michael really nailed the color on that one.
 

FlyingHorker

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Not into the blue Magees ones I've handled.

London Lounge had an excellent blue tweed, but I don't know if's available anymore. Michael really nailed the color on that one.
Can you elaborate on what was wrong with them?

The 2nd one up there looks dark enough, lighter than boring navy, and has the cold cast.

Most overcoating fabrics I found were ridiculously expensive.
 

dieworkwear

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Can you elaborate on what was wrong with them?

The 2nd one up there looks dark enough, lighter than boring navy, and has the cold cast.

Most overcoating fabrics I found were ridiculously expensive.

I don't think anything was "wrong" with them. I just didn't care for them.

Magee sends swatches, so you can see them in person before buying.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @FlyingHorker,

Do you happen to know the composition and the exact weight of the fabric that you posted?

Also, it would be interesting to know the width of the herringbone (one full chevron) to see whether it is suitable for an overcoat.

Best,

Dimitris
 

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