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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Unless I absolutely had to have cloth finished to Lesser's standards, this is the route I would take. Dugdale sell good, honest cloth. The plain weave of NFW should be good for a tan wool summer suit.
     
  2. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    If you buy Dugdale via their webshop, you have to be prepared to have your order fulfilled by Rian Taylor, who is abysmal. Furthermore, for over a year now, they send out all Dugdale cloths with a Thomas Fisher woven label. Robert the boss doesn't believe this. Goes to show how in touch he is with the business.

    There is even a case where the selvedge reads "Joseph Hirst", even though NFW was ordered. They never asked the customer beforehand if this is OK.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    FWIW, I have placed 6+ orders with Dugdale, and have found Rian quite good to work with. I don't really care about the labels.
     
  4. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    6 orders is a small sample size. I have been exposed to about 20.
     
  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Why place that many orders when the service offered is so abysmal? Regardless, like I said, I've always been very happy.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  6. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    Those are not my cloths. They were brought in to a tailor's shop in Kuala Lumpur by various people. I used to be at that tailor's shop very often. I am also often asked to provide a critical eye during the fittings, so I've been exposed to hundreds of suit commissions -- and dozens of NFWs. (I even helped make one into a suit, but that's a different story.)

    Sending out woven labels that do not correspond to the brand is just ridiculous. I know of exactly ZERO other merchants who do this. It would be like Harrison's sending out their label with Lesser cloths. Makes absolutely no sense. When I told Robert about this -- twice! since there was no change -- he asked for "evidence" so he could investigate. If I gave such a reply to my boss about an operational problem he discovered, my bonus and job would be in jeopardy.

    Rian also doesn't know anywhere near as much about cloths as the average SF member. The guy, when he started, was totally green. Two years ago, he didn't even know what navy is.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Nice! Details on the others?
     
  8. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Hey folks - so my approach to cloth has just been pretty much to ask my tailor to send some swatches and pick what I like the look of, I've never worried about brands. But reading threads like this does make me kind of curious what I've been buying, and I figured people in this thread would be as likely to know as anyone. (Let me know if it would've been better to start a new thread). So, out of interest, the last set of swatches I got had mostly codes with the prefix 'MLH', one with 'LTC'. The one I picked was MLH8167. For shirts I got some SW, some RG. Is it possible to tell from the codes (I'm assuming they're the 'official' codes and not just something my tailor makes up...) who made those? And are they good stuff or am I being sold pups? :) Thanks for any enlightenment.
     
  9. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    I've also place five or six orders with Rian and never had a problem.
     
  10. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    From the left is the old stock new navy nailhead 10oz H.Lesser (sold to an SF member), the linen Attolini from Taylor & Lodge, tobacco Minnis Fresco, charcoal Harrisons Cape Kid, 2 Ply high twist fresco, Super 140's POW Bateman Ogden, 3 ply High twist fresco in navy and a mid grey POW Super 120's.

    My photography skills are terrible :)
     
  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Used Dugdales often - never had any issues.
     
  12. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Ditto. I didn't even know there was a Rian to deal with, I just did the online thing.
     
  13. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    I bought a length of Dugdale from a member here. The label enclosed is Thomas Fisher and selvage is Joseph Hirsh or something. It seems the cloth is listed on their website as Thomas Fisher so I didn't think too much about it. But I can see if you were trying to help friends this may cause some embarrassment to you.
     
  14. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    I was going through my unfunded liabilities for some summer commissions and took the opportunity to take some pictures for this thread.

    Summer stuff:

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    Beige Woodhouse fresco, just enough for a jacket (unfortunately). Will get some pants from the mid-grey Brisa (which I bought directly from Lovat Mills)

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    A darker beige vintage Lesser (about 20 - 25 y/o IIRC) mohair and wool, with just minimal sheen

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    An old stock brown / grey nailhead from Lessers (I think this is the same as the finished suit put up by FCobrera here and on his blog)

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    Light grey Drapers five star 11 oz fresco (I think whnay. has posted this in a navy in the Rubinacci thread)

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    Dark/Mid grey marled 10/11 oz Woodhouse plain/panama weave.

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    Last edited: Mar 16, 2012
  15. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    A vintage grey / black barleycorn by Rikmar of about 20 oz, for a winter coat. Not yet sure whether to make it into a 6X4 double breasted or a chesterfield.

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    And two vintage worsted flannels with mohair from an unknow English mill, most likely some dead stock initially made for one of the SR tailors. The herringbone is enough for a suit. Of the plain mid-grey there was unfortunately only just enough for some pants.

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012

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