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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dan'l

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I‘m getting this made up next:

375D1953-4642-4265-AEDC-45347D115F39.jpeg


It‘s a navy blue herringbone in 100% cashmere from a random mill in Biella. I plan to get a SBPL sport coat, most likely with a single button. What do you guys recommend for pockets? I want a normal, welted breast pocket, but should I go with flapped, jetted or patch side pockets? The intended use is for evening wear, e.g. to a nice restaurant or cocktail party.
 

Bespoke DJP

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I‘m getting this made up next:

View attachment 1432695

It‘s a navy blue herringbone in 100% cashmere from a random mill in Biella. I plan to get a SBPL sport coat, most likely with a single button. What do you guys recommend for pockets? I want a normal, welted breast pocket, but should I go with flapped, jetted or patch side pockets? The intended use is for evening wear, e.g. to a nice restaurant or cocktail party.
Hi Dan,

I would go with flapped side pockets which may be used in a slightly more casual attire, like with a turtleneck or with a cotton flannel polo shirt, whereas they could be tucked in during evenings with a non-casual shirt, w/ or w/o tie.

Cheers,

Dimitris
 

aristoi bcn

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I‘m getting this made up next:

View attachment 1432695

It‘s a navy blue herringbone in 100% cashmere from a random mill in Biella. I plan to get a SBPL sport coat, most likely with a single button. What do you guys recommend for pockets? I want a normal, welted breast pocket, but should I go with flapped, jetted or patch side pockets? The intended use is for evening wear, e.g. to a nice restaurant or cocktail party.
Jetted.
 

dieworkwear

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I‘m getting this made up next:

View attachment 1432695

It‘s a navy blue herringbone in 100% cashmere from a random mill in Biella. I plan to get a SBPL sport coat, most likely with a single button. What do you guys recommend for pockets? I want a normal, welted breast pocket, but should I go with flapped, jetted or patch side pockets? The intended use is for evening wear, e.g. to a nice restaurant or cocktail party.
I would do jetted.

In theory, you can always tuck flaps, but I find I never do. I just end up forgetting or have one tucked and the other untucked. WIth an SBPL sport coat, I think that would look better with jetted pockets. Depending on the material, a tucked flap can also look kind of bulky.
 

Concordia

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SBPL is a little more sleek than most, and this won't probably be an all-day/every-day jacket. Start with jetted.
 

dan'l

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Thanks all for your feedback! Looks like 3 for jetted and 1 for flapped.

I guess I just need to be careful not to overstuff my pockets, to avoid the opening from stretching out over time. Then again with cashmere one needs to take care anyways, I suppose.
 

The Chai

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Thanks all for your feedback! Looks like 3 for jetted and 1 for flapped.

I guess I just need to be careful not to overstuff my pockets, to avoid the opening from stretching out over time. Then again with cashmere one needs to take care anyways, I suppose.
I have 12 navy/midnight blazer suit sbpl1b. Go with jetted. Don’t mind flaps if you’re gonna wear it in the morning but if it’s a dedicated evening jacket jetted
 

Bespoke DJP

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Thanks all for your feedback! Looks like 3 for jetted and 1 for flapped.

I guess I just need to be careful not to overstuff my pockets, to avoid the opening from stretching out over time. Then again with cashmere one needs to take care anyways, I suppose.
Dan,

I never want to change people's minds, I just give my opinion having always in mind what I would do for my own commissions!

Having said that, in my books herringbone was never a jacket's design for an "true" evening attire; even in a navy or midnight color, especially in this composition IMO it would always stand on the less formal area of the spectrum (which is not a bad thing!).

Should its composition be wool-silk, or even better, wool-mohair, 100% mohair, then yes, jetted pockets for a destined evening SBPL jacket would be the obvious choice.

Best,

Dimitris
 

Despos

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I never want to change people's minds, I just give my opinion having always in mind what I would do for my own commissions!

Having said that, in my books herringbone was never a jacket's design for an "true" evening attire; even in a navy or midnight color, especially in this composition IMO it would always stand on the less formal area of the spectrum (which is not a bad thing!).
^This
Not feeling this with peak lapels or the intended context of use. The cloth is lofty and will render a more relaxed casual feel, not an elegant evening jacket. This texture and pattern make a classy casual jacket.

Look at jacket styling of Corcos or Sartorio Cresent. Nice shaped notch, besom pockets, barchetta breast pocket.
 

dan'l

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Hmmm, interesting feedback! I was leaning towards evening wear since it is 100% cashmere. But perhaps I need to reconsider the use.

@Despos, any reason you suggest besom instead of flapped? Aren‘t jetted pockets considered more „formal“ than flapped, which seems incongruent with your comment that the cloth is casual?
 

dan'l

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@Despos, were you suggesting something like this (taken from Sartoria Crescent‘s website)?

4E4819E6-6233-40A1-BA32-1ACAF7429DC4.jpeg


I‘m wondering if it would look too much like an orphaned suit jacket.
 

Despos

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That cloth will never look like or be perceived as a suiting.
Peak lapels would contribute to a suit jacket look since peaks on odd jackets aren’t as common.
Besom has a clean non traditional look on an odd jacket over flaps. Flaps are fine but will look conventional. You seem to want this jacket to be set apart from normal navy jacket and use it for specific events.
I’m just digging the look of besoms on jackets right now.
 
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Despos

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Hmmm, interesting feedback! I was leaning towards evening wear since it is 100% cashmere. But perhaps I need to reconsider the use.

@Despos, any reason you suggest besom instead of flapped? Aren‘t jetted pockets considered more „formal“ than flapped, which seems incongruent with your comment that the cloth is casual?
If this were a worsted spun cashmere it would be a different case. Understand you perceive cashmere to be elegant but this pattern and weave don’t give off that impression.
 

The Chai

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Dan,

I never want to change people's minds, I just give my opinion having always in mind what I would do for my own commissions!

Having said that, in my books herringbone was never a jacket's design for an "true" evening attire; even in a navy or midnight color, especially in this composition IMO it would always stand on the less formal area of the spectrum (which is not a bad thing!).

Should its composition be wool-silk, or even better, wool-mohair, 100% mohair, then yes, jetted pockets for a destined evening SBPL jacket would be the obvious choice.

Best,

Dimitris
Hmmm, interesting feedback! I was leaning towards evening wear since it is 100% cashmere. But perhaps I need to reconsider the use.

@Despos, any reason you suggest besom instead of flapped? Aren‘t jetted pockets considered more „formal“ than flapped, which seems incongruent with your comment that the cloth is casual?
abit of inspo for you. Midnight mohair herringbone suit sbpl 1b with crewneck sweater and flapped pockets. I’ll tuck
F960656B-0727-499C-BE04-4835359B2E12.jpeg
D143B453-7E3C-4FFF-AE53-CE39AE488BF1.jpeg
CBF4E43D-3940-4C38-882F-E0C444B7B5D1.jpeg
them in later...
 

Bespoke DJP

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abit of inspo for you. Midnight mohair herringbone suit sbpl 1b with crewneck sweater and flapped pockets. I’ll tuck View attachment 1433672View attachment 1433673View attachment 1433674them in later...

My points exactly!

Differences with @dan'l 's case:

a) this is a suiting fabric, while Dan's is a jacketing one,
b) this is a mohair herringbone, whereas Dan's is a cashmere one,
and,
c) you already have an impressive 12-strong SBPL "niche" collection (and still growing!); does Dan really needs it?

Best,

Dimitris
 

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