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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Crispyj

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Hi,

Could you guys please help me find a nice cloth for my new outerwear project?
Saw too much swatches (mostly online at the moment unfortunately) lately and I need some help.

I am thinking about a navy / dark navy balmacaan.
I want a coat that is easy to wear, comfortable, easy to put on or to take off.
So most likely a mid-weight cloth (Between 450gr to 710gr?) with some natural stretch.
It would allow me to withstand cold mornings during springs over a shirt and during colder winter days, I would do with some layering.
I do not like herringbone pattern but I like a soft twill.
I like merino wool and maybe a bit of cashmere.

Fox heavy midnight flannel
Color wise, I like this one a lot . Not sure if it's a good match for a coat? It's in flannel and they mention jacketing but the weight is about 530/560 which is similar to other coating cloths but maybe it's not the only factor? My apologies, I still have so much to learn about cloths.

Fox Classic midnight coating
I like this one also but not as much. It looks warmer and I prefer the colder and deeper blue from the first link.

Moons navy overcoat
This one I actually saw at my Tailor's.
The picture does not really show the cloth nor its color well.
It's actually rather like this:



Of course, I am open to suggestions and I am willing to learn from you and your experience.

Cheers,
Thomas

I think Fox is coming out with a coating bunch that is wool and cashmere blend soon. If you can, wait for that.

Edit: Here's Doug with some samples. 50% Wool 50% Cashmere
1592851930635.png
 

Thomas_M

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I think Fox is coming out with a coating bunch that is wool and cashmere blend soon. If you can, wait for that.

Edit: Here's Doug with some samples. 50% Wool 50% Cashmere
Interesting, sounds really good!
That amount of cashmere should make a very nice fabric.
I can wait a bit, specially if I do not find something I really like in the meantime.
 

Concordia

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There was another serge that Fox had. All wool, and made up beautifully. Not sure if that is still in the coating collection.
 

FPB

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Hello gentlemen. I would like opinions on what would work better for a Harrington/blouson jacket: 100% silk or a 10% silk 90% wool blend. I found 2 similar jackets I really like, and considering the price (each is ~$700) I will only be buying one. I don't really care about warmth, but I do care about wear. I've read conflicting opinions about which is more durable. Wool jackets I've owned seem prone to shiny elbows after little wear. I've never actually owned a 100% silk jacket. Also, any thoughts on which fabric might resist stains better? Any other thoughts on wool vs. silk? Unfortunately I need to order online so I cannot try anything on first. Thank you.
 

dukeaw

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I just picked up my Spence Bryson tropical navy and tobacco linen suits from my tailor.
It was 90 degrees. I started the day in a wool sport coat and was sweltering. Once I put these on I was amazingly comfortable. I believe they are about ~12oz
I'd like to thank @The Chai for the fabric recommendation

IMG_1667.jpg
IMG_1658.jpg
 
Last edited:

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hello gentlemen. I would like opinions on what would work better for a Harrington/blouson jacket: 100% silk or a 10% silk 90% wool blend. I found 2 similar jackets I really like, and considering the price (each is ~$700) I will only be buying one. I don't really care about warmth, but I do care about wear. I've read conflicting opinions about which is more durable. Wool jackets I've owned seem prone to shiny elbows after little wear. I've never actually owned a 100% silk jacket. Also, any thoughts on which fabric might resist stains better? Any other thoughts on wool vs. silk? Unfortunately I need to order online so I cannot try anything on first. Thank you.
Hard to say without direct experience with those specific cloths. How a fabric feels and performs over time is going to be about more than just its fiber composition. It can include how the fibers were treated before they were spun, how they were spun, how the fabric was woven, and how it was finished.

If you're buying from a good store or seller, they may be able to guide you.
 

konstantis

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I just picked up my Spence Bryson tropical navy and tobacco linen suits from my tailor.
It was 90 degrees. I started the day in a wool sport coat and was sweltering. Once I put these on I was amazingly comfortable. I believe they are about ~12oz
I'd like to thank @The Chai for the fabric recommendation

View attachment 1411957View attachment 1411956
Congratulations . May i ask the reference numbers of both colours ? Thank you.
 

FPB

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Hard to say without direct experience with those specific cloths. How a fabric feels and performs over time is going to be about more than just its fiber composition. It can include how the fibers were treated before they were spun, how they were spun, how the fabric was woven, and how it was finished.

If you're buying from a good store or seller, they may be able to guide you.
Good points, thank you.
 

Concordia

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I just picked up my Spence Bryson tropical navy and tobacco linen suits from my tailor.
It was 90 degrees. I started the day in a wool sport coat and was sweltering. Once I put these on I was amazingly comfortable. I believe they are about ~12oz
I'd like to thank @The Chai for the fabric recommendation

View attachment 1411956
Oxblood shoes and that blue suit will rule!
 

sensuki

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I have a question regarding flannels that people here will probably be able to help with

I currently have two pairs of grey woollen flannels, at 240g and 340g and I live in Melbourne Australia. Winters here aren't the coldest but I'm finding that the 240 and 340g are a better weight for autumn than it is for winter. There have been a couple of instances where I've been inside a heated room and the 340g have felt a bit hot, but otherwise they've been fine indoors and not quite warm enough outside in the winter (particularly at night). The 340g are lined with cupro which feels quite cool against the skin, whereas the 240g are unlined and often feel warmer across the thigh when there's no wind/air movement.

I was thinking of ordering a heavier weight purely for winter. The maker I am going to see next week carries Fox and Caccioppoli ... I've heard that the Fox 370g isn't so good, and it's probably not much of an upgrade from the 340 that I already have. Then there's the 540g - I've seen people warn not to go this high due to indoor heating. Caccioppoli seem to do a 340 and 460g woollen, although the 460 looks a bit 'smooth' to me in the photos.

I have a swatch of Minnis 475g which looks good, and I've heard good things about apart from the fact that it's 'stiff'.

This maker also carries the Dakota book, so maybe I might just get some whipcords instead ...
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I have a question regarding flannels that people here will probably be able to help with

I currently have two pairs of grey woollen flannels, at 240g and 340g and I live in Melbourne Australia. Winters here aren't the coldest but I'm finding that the 240 and 340g are a better weight for autumn than it is for winter. There have been a couple of instances where I've been inside a heated room and the 340g have felt a bit hot, but otherwise they've been fine indoors and not quite warm enough outside in the winter (particularly at night). The 340g are lined with cupro which feels quite cool against the skin, whereas the 240g are unlined and often feel warmer across the thigh when there's no wind/air movement.

I was thinking of ordering a heavier weight purely for winter. The maker I am going to see next week carries Fox and Caccioppoli ... I've heard that the Fox 370g isn't so good, and it's probably not much of an upgrade from the 340 that I already have. Then there's the 540g - I've seen people warn not to go this high due to indoor heating. Caccioppoli seem to do a 340 and 460g woollen, although the 460 looks a bit 'smooth' to me in the photos.

I have a swatch of Minnis 475g which looks good, and I've heard good things about apart from the fact that it's 'stiff'.

This maker also carries the Dakota book, so maybe I might just get some whipcords instead ...
I think a heavy woolen flannel is more insulating than whipcord.

I have a few pairs of heavy woolen flannels. Something about the way they hang and look makes me pass them up though. I just end up wearing baselayers instead when I need to stay warm. For a while, when I live in Moscow, I got away with heavy baselayers and basically 14oz flannels.

If your trousers are cut very slim, maybe they'd catch. For a more classic cut though, they're fine.
 

sensuki

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yeah I have large calves so usually have a 21-22cm leg opening. I've got some over the calf wool socks that I wear in the winter that definitely helps a bit.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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yeah I have large calves so usually have a 21-22cm leg opening
I would just try a pair of wool baselayers then. I wear Smartwool, but you can also get them from Ibex, Patagonia, Icebreakers, Duckworth, Woolpower, etc. Uniqlo's Heat Tech line is also great for a budget option. Woolx has a super duper heavyweight option. I have a pair and find they're only wearable on the absolute coldest of days. Too warm for indoors; more for outdoor activities like camping.
 

sensuki

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I'd consider it if I could find one that had a high enough rise, but otherwise I'm still interested in getting some thicker/warmer trousers - that drape yo
 

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