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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Bromley

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Neither are particularly see-through when you're wearing them (except under flash photography).

Mock Leno: jacket only
Fresco: best as suit (smoother texture, darker colors), but can make a good jacket in the right color. There's a kind of steely navy in the classic Fresco bunch that makes a nice jacket.

A lot of other good high twist, open weave cloths out there worth consideration, too. Smith's Finmeresco is
 

bdavro23

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He said Harrisons, but I don't know the exact bunch.
Mersolair 28146 might work for you, but it may be a little more grey than oatmeal. I dont have the book in front of me to check, but I should have it soon and can post a pic for you.
 

Concordia

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I know the mock leno is more of a blazer fabric than the ordinary fresco weave (which ismore ofa suit fabric, I reckon), but do any of you support the idea of a fresco blazer. Or is it just too suit-ish?
Choose the color and the style well, and it should work OK. Patch pockets, perhaps.
 

WillingToLearn

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Cue discussion of fresco 0520, the original and definitive choice for a blazersuit, which is primarily useful for people that need a versatile work travel suit/sport coat. Its never my first choice at home base when i reach for a sport coat, but great for versatility on the road.
 

Concordia

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Or a similar color glen check, like Alden’s Brisa. Make trousers and you can dress it up a little. Blue/black puppytooth could also work well.
 
Last edited:

DavidLane

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Does anyone have a suggestion for where I can find something like this? While rummaging through my old swatches the other day, I found this swatch card for a 390 gram linen that was specially woven about five years ago. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Does anyone know of a heavy linen with this oatmeal color and a lot of texture? Not looking for those smooth linens you normally see in W Bill type books. Something more like a chunky hopsack, but in a heavy linen.


View attachment 1359555
View attachment 1359556
Derek, @luxire has a heavy weight ecru linen that I really like. It may be possible to have them send you a couple of meters. No idea on the mill but the cloth is excellent.
https://luxire.com/products/linen_natural_ecru_heavy_vintage?_pos=3&_sid=7b807b0ee&_ss=r#/

My pants:
A7EA81C1-ADCB-4609-9617-FFB6B858D234.jpeg

-DL
 

aristoi bcn

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Lurking chalkstripe woollen flannels for next Winter.

Anthony Eden.jpg


Aristotle Onassis.jpg


My first option would be the old Minnis at the perfect weight of 400 gms, which unfortunately is not produced anymore save special runs. @kolecho any run planned of our beloved ye olde Minnis flannel?

Old Minnis Charcoal Chalkstripe Flannel 0315.jpg


Harrison's makes something very slightly heavier than may fit the bill but haven't heard many opinions about it over here:

Harrison's Charcoal Chalkstripe Flannel 39238 now 39354.jpg


New Minnis woolen version is too heavy for my purpose at 435 gms. Only 15 gms heavier than the Harrison's but feels much more. I have trousers made of this range and they hold up very well but I know that for a suit (coat) it would be too heavy to wear. The 370 gms version of Minnis is fyi worsted flannel, so I discard it.



The Fox is probably the default/easier option but it's been discussed here about the durability and it seems it's not the best in this sense. It's the lightest of the 4 at 370-400 gms.



What would be your election and why?

Other suggestions are more than welcome.
 

lordsuperb

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Lurking chalkstripe woollen flannels for next Winter.

View attachment 1360768

View attachment 1360769

My first option would be the old Minnis at the perfect weight of 400 gms, which unfortunately is not produced anymore save special runs. @kolecho any run planned of our beloved ye olde Minnis flannel?

View attachment 1360766

Harrison's makes something very slightly heavier than may fit the bill but haven't heard many opinions about it over here:

View attachment 1360767

New Minnis woolen version is too heavy for my purpose at 435 gms. Only 15 gms heavier than the Harrison's but feels much more. I have trousers made of this range and they hold up very well but I know that for a suit (coat) it would be too heavy to wear. The 370 gms version of Minnis is fyi worsted flannel, so I discard it.



The Fox is probably the default/easier option but it's been discussed here about the durability and it seems it's not the best in this sense. It's the lightest of the 4 at 370-400 gms.



What would be your election and why?

Other suggestions are more than welcome.
Why don't you email them to see if they still have bolts of the old minnis left over?
 

The Chai

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Having my cream silk loro piana made into a dinner jacket...sbpl 1b with covered buttons and double vents...and having a chocolate brown black linen herringbone sports jacket...3 roll 2 with 2 inverted pleat patch pockets and a cran necker lapel
 

Mr. Six

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Lurking chalkstripe woollen flannels for next Winter.

View attachment 1360768

View attachment 1360769

My first option would be the old Minnis at the perfect weight of 400 gms, which unfortunately is not produced anymore save special runs. @kolecho any run planned of our beloved ye olde Minnis flannel?

View attachment 1360766

Harrison's makes something very slightly heavier than may fit the bill but haven't heard many opinions about it over here:

View attachment 1360767

New Minnis woolen version is too heavy for my purpose at 435 gms. Only 15 gms heavier than the Harrison's but feels much more. I have trousers made of this range and they hold up very well but I know that for a suit (coat) it would be too heavy to wear. The 370 gms version of Minnis is fyi worsted flannel, so I discard it.



The Fox is probably the default/easier option but it's been discussed here about the durability and it seems it's not the best in this sense. It's the lightest of the 4 at 370-400 gms.



What would be your election and why?

Other suggestions are more than welcome.
Probably lighter than you want, but Drapers has very nice chalkstripe options in grey and navy. I used a grey one for a suit that Steed made for me. No Man use grey and navy for Formosa suits a couple years ago.
 

reidd

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Having my cream silk loro piana made into a dinner jacket...sbpl 1b with covered buttons and double vents...and having a chocolate brown black linen herringbone sports jacket...3 roll 2 with 2 inverted pleat patch pockets and a cran necker lapel
That linen herringbone sounds like a very interesting cloth. Do you have any other info on it? In any case, looking forward to seeing the results.
 

jonathanS

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Lurking chalkstripe woollen flannels for next Winter.

View attachment 1360768

View attachment 1360769

My first option would be the old Minnis at the perfect weight of 400 gms, which unfortunately is not produced anymore save special runs. @kolecho any run planned of our beloved ye olde Minnis flannel?

View attachment 1360766

Harrison's makes something very slightly heavier than may fit the bill but haven't heard many opinions about it over here:

View attachment 1360767

New Minnis woolen version is too heavy for my purpose at 435 gms. Only 15 gms heavier than the Harrison's but feels much more. I have trousers made of this range and they hold up very well but I know that for a suit (coat) it would be too heavy to wear. The 370 gms version of Minnis is fyi worsted flannel, so I discard it.



The Fox is probably the default/easier option but it's been discussed here about the durability and it seems it's not the best in this sense. It's the lightest of the 4 at 370-400 gms.



What would be your election and why?

Other suggestions are more than welcome.
I was considering a similar comission for this fall. I was talking to Michael Alden over at london lounge about getting a navy wide unapologetic chalk stripe run going. It might be too heavy for you, I believe itd be 480 grams. My second choice is Fox Heritage flannel 480/510 grams (17/18 oz). But, again, might be too heavy for you.

If you want a lightweight flannel (and price isnt an issue), go for the Lumbs Golden Bale Navy Chalkstripe. Fox, Harrisons, Minnis are also good. I looked at a Standeven that I was tempted by - I believe that had a light blue chalk stripe, which looked quite nice, at least in the fabric book. Drapers also has a nice flannel as well (I remember them having a lightweight gray chalk stripe which I liked).

Oh, and when I say lightweight flannel, I am thinking anything other 450 grams.

I believe @Alan Bee has a chalk stripe in the Harrisons bunch that you just mentioned. Actually, if I recall correctly, his is in the Archive Flannel book, which I liked much more than the standard Harrisons Flannel book.
 

aristoi bcn

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I was considering a similar comission for this fall. I was talking to Michael Alden over at london lounge about getting a navy wide unapologetic chalk stripe run going. It might be too heavy for you, I believe itd be 480 grams. My second choice is Fox Heritage flannel 480/510 grams (17/18 oz). But, again, might be too heavy for you.

If you want a lightweight flannel (and price isnt an issue), go for the Lumbs Golden Bale Navy Chalkstripe. Fox, Harrisons, Minnis are also good. I looked at a Standeven that I was tempted by - I believe that had a light blue chalk stripe, which looked quite nice, at least in the fabric book. Drapers also has a nice flannel as well (I remember them having a lightweight gray chalk stripe which I liked).

Oh, and when I say lightweight flannel, I am thinking anything other 450 grams.

I believe @Alan Bee has a chalk stripe in the Harrisons bunch that you just mentioned. Actually, if I recall correctly, his is in the Archive Flannel book, which I liked much more than the standard Harrisons Flannel book.
Thank you.

Will have a look at Standeven and Drapers. The others are too heavy or too delicate/expensive (Lumbs Golden Bale).
 

The Chai

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That linen herringbone sounds like a very interesting cloth. Do you have any other info on it? In any case, looking forward to seeing the results.
It’s from Spence Bryson glin collection. 300grams
 

paborden

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Lurking chalkstripe woollen flannels for next Winter.

View attachment 1360768

View attachment 1360769

My first option would be the old Minnis at the perfect weight of 400 gms, which unfortunately is not produced anymore save special runs. @kolecho any run planned of our beloved ye olde Minnis flannel?

View attachment 1360766

Harrison's makes something very slightly heavier than may fit the bill but haven't heard many opinions about it over here:

View attachment 1360767

New Minnis woolen version is too heavy for my purpose at 435 gms. Only 15 gms heavier than the Harrison's but feels much more. I have trousers made of this range and they hold up very well but I know that for a suit (coat) it would be too heavy to wear. The 370 gms version of Minnis is fyi worsted flannel, so I discard it.



The Fox is probably the default/easier option but it's been discussed here about the durability and it seems it's not the best in this sense. It's the lightest of the 4 at 370-400 gms.



What would be your election and why?

Other suggestions are more than welcome.
I've been eyeing the new anglo italian flannels actually
 

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