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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

lordsuperb

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Just acquired a jacket length through ebay (I paid less than 50$ with shipping) of this wool and silk made by Broadhead & Graves. Wool&Silk is not a mix you see very often and this design (I would call it whipcord) is also quite particular in jacketings.

From the info found at http://www.gladsonltd.com/collection/EnglishCollections/Broadhead_Graves.htm and google it seems that the mill belonged to Huddersfield Fine Worsteds and it was demolished not long time ago. Any further info on the cloth and on the mill is much appreciated.

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I would make this a suit.
 

Mr. Six

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I got a length of lightweight wool-silk cav twill from Ed awhile ago. I Sarti is making it into trousers now. It’s very lightweight and breezy. Should be nice once it warms up here. Assuming I ever have to leave the house for work again.
 

imatlas

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I got a length of lightweight wool-silk cav twill from Ed awhile ago. I Sarti is making it into trousers now. It’s very lightweight and breezy. Should be nice once it warms up here. Assuming I ever have to leave the house for work again.
I like the sound of these.
 

dieworkwear

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Does anyone have any advice on good corduroy books other than Brisbane Moss? I'm looking to get something like Vox's below (in his IG post he says it is an 8-wale)
Here you go. These are cotton-cashmere blends, so a little softer and more pliable than pure cotton. All from Loro Piana's Cotton Time book. I'm including the other colors here. Also, the usual word of warning: I didn't color correct these and the colors may show up slightly differently on your screen. I think these are within the ballpark of accurate representation, but you should get swatches if you're interested

These are all 90% cotton, 10% cashmere. 390gr/mt

#602055. A very pale tan:

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#602056. Slightly darker in real life. More of a wheat color.

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#602058. A mossy olive. Really nice color, I think.

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# 602059. A mid-blue

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dieworkwear

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Does anyone have a suggestion for where I can find something like this? While rummaging through my old swatches the other day, I found this swatch card for a 390 gram linen that was specially woven about five years ago. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Does anyone know of a heavy linen with this oatmeal color and a lot of texture? Not looking for those smooth linens you normally see in W Bill type books. Something more like a chunky hopsack, but in a heavy linen.


IMG_7981.JPG

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kolecho

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Does anyone have a suggestion for where I can find something like this? While rummaging through my old swatches the other day, I found this swatch card for a 390 gram linen that was specially woven about five years ago. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Does anyone know of a heavy linen with this oatmeal color and a lot of texture? Not looking for those smooth linens you normally see in W Bill type books. Something more like a chunky hopsack, but in a heavy linen.


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Not as chunky as this but I have a suit made up in "natural" Lisburn Irish linen from Dugdale, circa 350g. It's more porous and has more surface interest than standard Irish linens.
 

dieworkwear

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Only two meters. :(
That fabric seems like it would make for a funky odd jacket. Maybe it can work, but with so many better options, and limited closet space, it seems like resources could be better allocated.

I think I'm in the minority on this, but I find it's usually a bad idea to buy offcuts on eBay.
 

ericgereghty

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@dieworkwear any idea of the mohair/linen George mentions in your (very good) spring tailoring article? Mersolair perhaps? Though I do believe they've purged that composition from the book in recent iterations.
 

dieworkwear

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@dieworkwear any idea of the mohair/linen George mentions in your (very good) spring tailoring article? Mersolair perhaps? Though I do believe they've purged that composition from the book in recent iterations.
He said Harrisons, but I don't know the exact bunch.
 

Bromley

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Does anyone have a suggestion for where I can find something like this? While rummaging through my old swatches the other day, I found this swatch card for a 390 gram linen that was specially woven about five years ago. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. Does anyone know of a heavy linen with this oatmeal color and a lot of texture? Not looking for those smooth linens you normally see in W Bill type books. Something more like a chunky hopsack, but in a heavy linen.


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I don't have any bunches on hand, but Dugdale's Lisburn bunch has a similar cloth. So does Harrisons Mersolair, although their web scans aren't great. Caccioppoli's cotton/linen bunch has a cloth like that as well.
 

Bromley

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I bought a length of linen nearly identical to that in appearance a few months ago at an upholstery shop. It's like 25 oz, really open weave, and it got very soft after I washed it a couple times. Excited to have it made into a shirt jacket or something like that.
 

9thsymph

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How see through is Minnis navy mock leno?

What about regular Minnis fresco (11oz)?

I know the mock leno is more of a blazer fabric than the ordinary fresco weave (which ismore ofa suit fabric, I reckon), but do any of you support the idea of a fresco blazer. Or is it just too suit-ish?
 

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