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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Yay for gray donegal!
     
  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Yea - second to the blue blazer, that is the classic winter SC.
     
  3. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Also, I have a length of mid grey/dark grey PoW Johnston cashmere with a blue overcheck that is as yet unfunded.
     
  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    That's definitely part of it.

    The other thing is that it's too sedate. Not enough interest in the grey (unlike a Donegal) and too soft (unlike a heavy tweed). The pattern is way too much for a suit butnot quite enough for a SC.

    I think Matt had posted (a long while ago) a cashmere SC that looked like TV static - I recommend something like that for cashmere.
     
  5. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Gray is not the problem of that fabric.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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    It's sometimes difficult to pair up a tie with a grey sportscoat and get some kind of congruence with your trousers. The contrast is usually too jarring.

    Looking back through some of my old posts in WAYWN I can see a few failed attempts. Difficult to explain but trousers and tie usually end up forming a "colour block". Does that make sense?

    I've found that dark grey Donegal tends to be a little easier to match up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2012
  7. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    I understand that all won't like grey coats, and I accept that. I also appreciate the comments. So it seems, excluding those who categorically reject grey jackets, seem to not like it because of the light purple checks being a spring color but the cashmere being a winter/fall fabric?
     
  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's my objection, yes. I think someone also thought it was too bold for a suiting and not bold enough for an odd jacket. I don't think I agree with that.
     
  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    There isn't enough contrast. Lite grey with white and pale lilac all gets washed out.

    To put it another way, what will you pair it with? Dark grey or navy pants will overpower the jacket and make it look even more like a solid (and I don't think anyone could love a solid grey SC).

    So you're left with white / cream (or lilac if you're into matching like that...). That will look pretty good but it's distinctive enough to be an 'oh, you're wearing that again' sort of outfit.

    I think you'd get ore mileage out of a grey flannel suit with a white windowpane. Or even an SC like this that permanent style highlighted--

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v5M7NtPKnZA/UFHh91w5uYI/AAAAAAAADns/Q0-apoxOlIU/s1600/ps-f12_p7.jpg

    From
    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/09/paul-stuarts-wondrous-autumn-colours.html

    But I'm boring to a fault and even if I weren't, my opinion won't and shouldn't diminish your enjoyment of that SC-to-be.
     
  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  11. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    Do you have details of the fabric in the first picture, on right? It looks fantastic.
     
  12. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Looking for some thoughts on this:

    I had originally planned to do my winter overcoat s/b, peak lapel, fly front and hacking pockets with a ticket. I just got a call, and my tailor said that the fabric was so thick, that a fly front would not look clean on it. So, I was thinking something like this instead:

    [​IMG]

    It will be cut as a casual coat, to be worn without a sport jacket underneath...
     
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Looks fun! I wonder if 4 buttons might be better for that design. I also may make the bottom half of the lapel a bit wider, more like a pea coat. Speaking of pea coat, why not just go double breasted to make it uber warm?
     
  14. tlfactor

    tlfactor Active Member

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    NYR, I remember seeing you in a Phineas Cole overcoat in a post awhile back, which looked DOPE! However I'm sure it was very pricey...did you ever pull the trigger on it?
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I like the look and prefer keeping my hands warm with straight pockets with flaps rather than slanted pockets.

    Agree w/ Slewfoot that moar / smaller. Uttons might look better.

    What sort of cloth? A thick melton?
     
  16. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    4 Buttons might be the way to go. As far as peacoat, I've got a decent one I like already, and I think that the cloth will just be too warm (if you can imagine that)...thats how heavy it was.



    I was actually using that cut as the model for this bespoke piece, but the fabrics too thick for the fly front, so I think exposed buttons would not jive with the sleekness of the rest of the coat.



    The cloth is this super heavy piece made in England in the early 1930s. Real unique, I think its up further in the thread.
     
  17. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

    Are you going for something a little shorter than the Paul Stuart coat?
     
  18. GucciKid

    GucciKid Senior member

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    I'm looking for a tweed recommendation close to this fabric:

    [​IMG]

    Any recommendations?
     
  19. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Not tweed, but the Dugdale English Classics bunch has a 14oz fuzzy-finish brown houndstooth. Marling and Evans also has a few brown houndstooth patterns in their Lambswool Blend selection.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012
  20. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
    and which one is $15 a shirt length[​IMG]
     

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