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mercury

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On the subject of jacketings, if I go with navy mockleno for a single breasted sc, what's the "go-to" for a DB blazer?
Was thinking of trying H&S Crispaire or some other hopsack. Any recommendations?
 

Limniscate

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So far my Lesser 16 seems to be the winner. It is very comparable to like weaves in P&B Universal, which are also heavy clothes. Like Despos suit I have had linings **** the bed and had them redone.

I haven't used finmeresco, but I have a lot of suits in 8/9oz Minnis. I have had one in 10oz Minnis as well. In my opinion there is a big difference in coolness of the 8/9oz to the 10oz once the humidity kicks up. I'm wearing full suits less in the summers than I used to (non-work days) so I am buying brands more based on the shade of the particular summer cloth rather than the availability of certain weights across brands. Wearing anything in the summer just plain sucks.

I would agree that the 8/9 oz. Minnis Fresco is noticeably cooler than the 9/10 oz.. The 9/10 oz. is bullet-proof though.
 

dieworkwear

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Thanks all. I would still appreciate other suggestions for the right navy for a spring/summer blazer.

There are two dark blue Frescos. It's been a while, so I don't remember their reference numbers, but they're from the Fresco II book and people have referenced them for years here.

I bought a suit in the darker of the two blue Frescos. Then I had a sport coat commissioned in the lighter shade. Looking back, I think that was a bit of a waste of money -- they're somewhat similar, even though one feels more "summery" in color. That said, I do find that lighter shade of dark blue goes well in the summertime.

I had a lighter blue sport coat for a while (not actually light blue, but a shade or two lighter than the lighter-than-navy Fresco). I found I didn't wear it very much. It just takes that much more coordination, which means it didn't make it out that often. Also, the lighter you go, the less appropriate it feels for work.

That shade of blue obvs isn't unique to the Fresco book. But if you can find something in that lighter-than-navy color, I think it works well.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Should be for jacketing fabric. And I did not know Anteprima was a separate business from the RTW Zegna. Nice to know!


..., separate business unit; there is another (limited) selection of fabrics exclusively for the Boutiques' bespoke clientele.

I' ll see if I could manage to take a picture on Friday for you.

Cheers,

Dimitris
 

TweedyProf

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ahtynes

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saw this finmeresco 4-ply the other day that I’m eyeing up for a Neapolitan-style blazer. It’s one shade lighter/blue-er than a traditional navy

I just took delivery of a suit in this (2710 rather than 2706). I haven't had a chance to wear it outside my apartment but it's very sturdy and drapes nicely. Breaking it out this weekend so I can probably speak to the breathability later on.

In other news, new season Caccioppoli bunches are up on their website.
 

Alan Bee

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Does anyone who where to source very good quality gray (with blue windowpane) flannel? Something similar in design to the highly subscribed London Lounge Agnelli Flannel ...

Alan Bee

3E207580-C2F7-4E80-A987-4290894D672D.jpeg
 

Mr. Six

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When I looked a couple/few years ago, there really wasn't a good flannel equivalent for the Agnelli tweed. The tweed has a slight white check next to the blue check. None of the flannels had it. I was lucky to find that @Fishball still had some of the special flannel run that Fox did for him that includes the white check. Maybe has some more? It's a really nice flannel.
 

Despos

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These look great. What's the difference between mesh and hopsack?
Mesh is another term for a Leno weave. Leno weave is two warp yarns that are twisted in a figure 8 pattern through the weft. Creates a very stable but open weave. Mock Leno is a variation of the Leno weave.
Hopsack is a plain weave woven two yarns next to two yarns instead of one by one.
 

classicalthunde

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Does anyone who where to source very good quality gray (with blue windowpane) flannel? Something similar in design to the highly subscribed London Lounge Agnelli Flannel ...

Alan Bee

View attachment 1330230

Not sure about how exact a match you are looking, but Lovat Mills (they make a lot of the LL stuff) has some similar stuff in their stock supported collection. The examples below are a bit different, but definitely adjacent to the swatch you posted.

edit: Also, just realized you were looking for a flannel and not tweed, these are the latter.



 

Alan Bee

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Inhab
Not sure about how exact a match you are looking, but Lovat Mills (they make a lot of the LL stuff) has some similar stuff in their stock supported collection. The examples below are a bit different, but definitely adjacent to the swatch you posted.

edit: Also, just realized you were looking for a flannel and not tweed, these are the latter.



@classicalthunde Thank you.

I have both books (Kirkton and Teviot) on my desk. There’s a gray window at the very back of the Teviot book (430 gram light tweed) but it’s too dark IRL, almost charcoal, and you can hardly make out the blue window. I’m looking for a gray closer to midgray like the Agnelli gray.

Alan Bee

981A1A47-733B-4076-B4EB-67D5B4AA5D82.jpeg
 
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