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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

The Chai

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My next DJ project...I think I'll get a dark navy fresco mohair and get rid of another unfunded liability...unlined 4x1 shawl....self faced because I want to wear it with a variety of my navy/midnight bow ties with a self stripe on the trousers... I thought it would be something different since I already have a collection of black tie..thoughts?
 

emptym

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emptym

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Thinking of getting a navy blazer in Smiths Finmeresco, Smiths Mock Leno, or Minnis Mock Leno.
1324742

I'm leaning toward the Minnis, but would love to hear peoples' thoughts and experiences with the three, particularly the two MLs. Wondering how to line it too. I have a quarter lined 4 ply Fin, but I'm wondering if the MLs are so see-through that they'd need more lining. I'm guessing definitely dark sleeve lining.
 

Bromley

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Can't speak for the Minnis mock leno, but the Smith ML and Finmeresco are both really nice. There's a good Dugdale ML too, that might be worth considering, since it is possibly much less expensive depending on a few factors.

I've only seen these open-weave cloths really become see-throughish in light tones (like cream). Dark tones only seem to show through in flash photography. Also, the difference in vibe and appearance between Finmeresco and ML is big. ML has a much more casual feel.

I would choose to line as minimally as possible to take advantage of the open weave. Would also recommend the heavier version of any of these. The openness of the weave is the same, but the extra weight gives the cloth a really nice body that's noticeable when it's made up. That's a look that I like, though. I've also been surprised at how well some of the lightweight versions of these cloths hold up.
 

dieworkwear

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Thinking of getting a navy blazer in Smiths Finmeresco, Smiths Mock Leno, or Minnis Mock Leno.
View attachment 1324742
I'm leaning toward the Minnis, but would love to hear peoples' thoughts and experiences with the three, particularly the two MLs. Wondering how to line it too. I have a quarter lined 4 ply Fin, but I'm wondering if the MLs are so see-through that they'd need more lining. I'm guessing definitely dark sleeve lining.
I just got my ML sport coat. I can't remember if I went with HFW or Smiths, but I want to say HFW because I vaguely remember thinking that I could just buy the cloth direct. I also vaguely remember there being three options for ML. Solito said that he liked the HFW one cause it was like the Goldilocks between the three -- a bit stiffer than one of the others, but not as rough as the third.

The weave also seems more open than the other tropical weaves, but I don't think you have to line it a special way. The usual "line the sleeves, half lining in the back" type thing is fine.

It hasn't been warm enough for me to wear mine, so I can't really speak that much on it. So far, it does seem to attract lint a little more than other materials. Prob not an issue if you have a dark blue cat.
 

aristoi bcn

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Thinking of getting a navy blazer in Smiths Finmeresco, Smiths Mock Leno, or Minnis Mock Leno.
View attachment 1324742
I'm leaning toward the Minnis, but would love to hear peoples' thoughts and experiences with the three, particularly the two MLs. Wondering how to line it too. I have a quarter lined 4 ply Fin, but I'm wondering if the MLs are so see-through that they'd need more lining. I'm guessing definitely dark sleeve lining.
I have the Minnis both made in SB and DB jackets and I wouldn't go any heavier. If it's quarter lined it is ok to wear in the Summer (let's say until 28-30º degrees celsius). It's not a Winter cloth and I don't wear mine if the temperature drops below 10º.

The Finmeresco is definitely a suiting, I wouldn't do a jacket from that cloth. Maybe a blazersuit.
 

jonathanS

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Thinking of getting a navy blazer in Smiths Finmeresco, Smiths Mock Leno, or Minnis Mock Leno.
View attachment 1324742
I'm leaning toward the Minnis, but would love to hear peoples' thoughts and experiences with the three, particularly the two MLs. Wondering how to line it too. I have a quarter lined 4 ply Fin, but I'm wondering if the MLs are so see-through that they'd need more lining. I'm guessing definitely dark sleeve lining.
For a jacket, I’d go finmeresco mock Leno. I feel like 4 ply & fresco lite are suiting fabrics.
 

Alan Bee

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I have the Minnis both made in SB and DB jackets and I wouldn't go any heavier. If it's quarter lined it is ok to wear in the Summer (let's say until 28-30º degrees celsius). It's not a Winter cloth and I don't wear mine if the temperature drops below 10º.

The Finmeresco is definitely a suiting, I wouldn't do a jacket from that cloth. Maybe a blazersuit.
This ...

Smiths Finmeresco is a (casual) suiting, too smooth a hand to be a jacketing. Mock Leno is a jacketing. I have both Finmeresco in a suit and ML jackets.

Below, Mock Leno in Navy and Royal Blue ...

Alan Bee
fullsizeoutput_205e.jpegdf13217d-cffa-4bb3-8031-a4bf2f34ec8c.jpg807510a3-3efe-4ab2-9f22-e1fce895cf96.jpg
 

Concordia

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Spring Ram from Harrisonsofedinburgh has a hopsack with blazer potential.
 

kolecho

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Alan Bee

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The one labeled as “stitched hopsack” in Spring Ram is a jacketing for sure though it is a lot heavier than Minnis mock leno.
@kolecho

True, I just checked. There are only two Mock Leno type jacketings in the book (Navy115/Dark Navy116). The rest are suitings

Alan Bee
D569070E-B20B-4CF2-A597-664FE937B00E.jpeg69A1F75B-5898-4CD3-917C-0A3D64CB9A8F.jpeg2E0EED66-CF71-4953-BF5D-E3FABD10B3AA.jpeg
 

S K M

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Just recieved a new sports jacket in mock Leno (Harrisons) from Paone. Extremely nice and versatile, had it made half lined. wouldn’t ever have thought of it if I hadn’t seen and felt another jacket in mock leno in his sartoria, but extremely happy I went for it.
 

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