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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

stifler

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I am trying to source the fabric myself. Do you recommend any fabric for peacoats and topcoats that are ideal for windy and rainy conditions? I prefer cashmere because of how soft it is, but am open to other options
 

Despos

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Cashmere is soft and warm but not what I would wear in wind and rain. Storm system backing makes the cloth stiff and less supple. Never cared for the feel of the cloth. The backing compromises the natural feel of the cloth. It’s a pain to sew. If you want a coat for cold and rainy weather, get a beater cloth that will handle the weather and is not too precious. Cashmere is lux and should be worn that way.
 

SimonC

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I just got a coat made of heavyweight cashmere. I wore it for a one hour walk in heavy rain and around freezing temperatures, and arrived dry. Good fabric doesn't need additional water repellency...
 

zr3rs

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I am trying to source the fabric myself. Do you recommend any fabric for peacoats and topcoats that are ideal for windy and rainy conditions? I prefer cashmere because of how soft it is, but am open to other options
I have a pea coat made from Fox Brothers charcoal herringbone CWF37 S0505/11, also available in navy.
It is as wind tight as a pea coat can be (that is, if you feel the wind, it is not because of the fabric but because of the cut). I would think that it needs a lot of rain to soak through, and it is very soft to the touch on the surface, svery sturdy, but not at all tweedy or scratchy, but at this weight of course not thin and flexible as a cashmere blanket.
Anyway I do not think that a pea coat is a good idea for cold and rainy weather unless you dress like a sailor underneath. But a long military coat where you can close the collar would be a reasonable project.
 

dieworkwear

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I am trying to source the fabric myself. Do you recommend any fabric for peacoats and topcoats that are ideal for windy and rainy conditions? I prefer cashmere because of how soft it is, but am open to other options
what about melton
 

UrbanComposition

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Invertere had 600g and 800g duffel coats on display at Pitti that were out of this world beefy and could probably stop a bullet. That’s the kind of fabric you’d want for carefree outerwear. Can’t be sure but it looks like Brycelands used them for their coats this winter.


 
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dan'l

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I had my pea coat made from this Fox Bros. cloth:

https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/coating/products/fox-military-issue-navy

With a weight of nearly 1kg it is substantial and warm, but not nearly as warm as a long coat, mainly due to, well, the length <duh>.

I second the comments above about choosing a different fabric than cashmere for a pea coat. It doesn’t really seem like the best use of such an expensive and fine cloth.
 

dan'l

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I’ll be in Vienna next week and was wondering if anyone has recommendations for fabric shopping there. I suppose there will not be much in the way of bargains to be had, but I am more interested in coming across vintage cloth bolts that are no longer in the current books.

Any suggestions would be very welcome!
 

ThinkDerm

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I’ll be in Vienna next week and was wondering if anyone has recommendations for fabric shopping there. I suppose there will not be much in the way of bargains to be had, but I am more interested in coming across vintage cloth bolts that are no longer in the current books.

Any suggestions would be very welcome!
Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe
 

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