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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

brax

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Yes you are not wrong. 150cm is indeed the standard width, but when Holland and Sherry/W Bill say their linen is 310-340 grams they are referring to the weight per linear metre. If you look at the label from the Tropical Range it says 255grams per square metre...so you take that number amd multiply it by 1.6 and you get its weight per linear metre which comes up to 408 grams/12oz per linear metre (oops I have a different linen from them which is considerably heavier)
Shouldn’t this be “multiply it by 1.5?” A linear meter is 100cm times 150cm thus 1.5 meters squared of fabric. This versus 1 meter squared. Thus multiply by 1.5, no?
 

brax

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Cross post from Batik thread. Here’s something a bit unusual for this thread. Unfunded liability shirting:

I saw some really good batik in Java (primarily in Yogyakarta and Malang) but I could not pull the trigger. I usually hate cultural appropriation babble but I would feel self-conscious wearing it. But see zero problem for those who can pull it off. I had no trouble, however, buying indigo shirting and jacketing. This cotton and linen was hand-spun, then naturally dyed and hand loomed on 90ish cm looms. I expect it to fade very nicely as shirts and shirt-jackets (maybe safari-style). The rust will be used as upholstery.
2EE302AD-4606-4880-B027-CA48D31BBF97.jpeg
DD839E20-2632-419C-B2E0-7223DEF4B89A.jpeg
045DAED1-C84E-4AC8-9F84-4172BF8BA208.jpeg
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View attachment 1315934
 
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Concordia

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Very nice. Maybe a guayabera? Or even a plain-vanilla shirt with button cuffs.
 

L.deJong

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Anyone have any experience with Dugdale Royal Pageant or Spectrum?
I photographed some swatches op the spectrum bunch.

Both collections are lightweight. But the Pageant one is also really smooth and a bit shiny (not much just a touch).
I didn't like the Pageant because of that smoothness and shininess. I also found it not as drapey as I would like.
But I'm more of a rough/thicker fabric-type.

The spectrum cloth is rougher and not shiny at all, It also feels like it has more drape and will wrinkle less.

But please don't take my word for it, try them yourself. You make like the Royal Pageant a lot!
 

buddyfuzz

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I photographed some swatches op the spectrum bunch.

Both collections are lightweight. But the Pageant one is also really smooth and a bit shiny (not much just a touch).
I didn't like the Pageant because of that smoothness and shininess. I also found it not as drapey as I would like.
But I'm more of a rough/thicker fabric-type.

The spectrum cloth is rougher and not shiny at all, It also feels like it has more drape and will wrinkle less.

But please don't take my word for it, try them yourself. You make like the Royal Pageant a lot!
This is strange. I've just received some swatches of both, and found that Spectrum is the smoother one? Royal Pageant is the Gabardine, right?
 

brax

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Very nice. Maybe a guayabera? Or even a plain-vanilla shirt with button cuffs.
Good thought but Camiseria Burgos in Madrid made me a cotton and a linen guayabera so probably don’t need any more. Guayaberas worn in the country of my birth are always white thus blue would also be too bold of a choice.
Yeah, simple no-frills shirt is the way to go with the traditional shirt-weight length. But the others have an open weave and are much heavier. That’s why the rust will be used as upholstery down the road. I’m thinking something along these lines for the heavy, open-weave blues:
F5037897-7C9D-40FC-B2E5-CF0E5A46E61A.jpeg
446B0E42-A1FE-49F7-A3F0-810868838822.jpeg
 

Alan Bee

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This is strange. I've just received some swatches of both, and found that Spectrum is the smoother one? Royal Pageant is the Gabardine, right?
@buddyfuzz @L.deJong

Royal Pageant is a gabardine indeed. Beautiful cloth and drapes quite nicely. Just had a few pair of full cut trousers made from this cloth and it’s simply outstanding summer trousers.

I had them fully lined just to add more weight to the cloth and drape.

Alan Bee
 

buddyfuzz

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@buddyfuzz @L.deJong

Royal Pageant is a gabardine indeed. Beautiful cloth and drapes quite nicely. Just had a few pair of full cut trousers made from this cloth and it’s simply outstanding summer trousers.

I had them fully lined just to add more weight to the cloth and drape.

Alan Bee
Thanks Alan,

1.) When you say fully lined, you mean the full front of the pant, or are you also talking about lining the back as well?
2.) You didn't, by any chance have a pair made in the Dark Grey Melange (6222), did you? As that's the shade I'm after,and would love to see a picture of it made up.
3.) Any thoughts on using Royal Pageant for a full suit? I've always considered Gabardine to be a bit more Fall/Winter, but that's probably just my associations with it being a bit of a 'tougher weave', and may be unfounded.

Thanks!
 

Alan Bee

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Thanks Alan,

1.) When you say fully lined, you mean the full front of the pant, or are you also talking about lining the back as well?
2.) You didn't, by any chance have a pair made in the Dark Grey Melange (6222), did you? As that's the shade I'm after,and would love to see a picture of it made up.
3.) Any thoughts on using Royal Pageant for a full suit? I've always considered Gabardine to be a bit more Fall/Winter, but that's probably just my associations with it being a bit of a 'tougher weave', and may be unfounded.

Thanks!
@buddyfuzz

you’re welcome!

Royal Pageant is a wool gabardine in 9/10oz weight. I’ve always associated this weight with summer cloth and can’t quite see how this can be worn in the winter.

It is a gaberdine twill with a silky smooth hand and feels lovely on the hand. I’m definitely sure it can be used for a full suit. One of the key attributes of gaberdine is its ability to “drape far above its weight”. I’ve found that to be true with my trousers.

I had them made in summer colors (off white, a very light tan, taupe, and maroon). For my gray summer odd trousers, I went with Dugdale’s Tropicalair (fresco) bunch in mid and dove gray.

I initially had them lined up to the knee in the front but during the fitting, we decided to go with full lining all around down to the calf or so. This gave the trousers a little more weight and it definitely hangs like steel with the full lining.

Alan Bee
 

bdavro23

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@buddyfuzz

you’re welcome!

Royal Pageant is a wool gabardine in 9/10oz weight. I’ve always associated this weight with summer cloth and can’t quite see how this can be worn in the winter.

It is a gaberdine twill with a silky smooth hand and feels lovely on the hand. I’m definitely sure it can be used for a full suit. One of the key attributes of gaberdine is its ability to “drape far above its weight”. I’ve found that to be true with my trousers.

I had them made in summer colors (off white, a very light tan, taupe, and maroon). For my gray summer odd trousers, I went with Dugdale’s Tropicalair (fresco) bunch in mid and dove gray.

I initially had them lined up to the knee in the front but during the fitting, we decided to go with full lining all around down to the calf or so. This gave the trousers a little more weight and it definitely hangs like steel with the full lining.

Alan Bee
I'm curious about lining summer trousers to the ankle. I run very hot, so this is a non-starter for me, but I also question the use of an open weave cloth, only to line it and defeat the utility.
 

Alan Bee

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I'm curious about lining summer trousers to the ankle. I run very hot, so this is a non-starter for me, but I also question the use of an open weave cloth, only to line it and defeat the utility.
@bdavro23

I was only referring to the gabardine trousers. Gabs aren’t an open weave, they are a tightly woven twill.

The frescos in Dugdale Tropicalair are unlined because the cloth has more structure and drapes well in its own.

Alan Bee
 

bdavro23

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@bdavro23

I was only referring to the gabardine trousers. Gabs aren’t an open weave, they are a tightly woven twill.

The frescos in Dugdale Tropicalair are unlined because the cloth has more structure and drapes well in its own.

Alan Bee
Thanks for clarifying. I have a Dugdale account, so I'm familiar with the cloth. I'm actually making two pair of trousers for a customer right now in Tropicalair and think he will really enjoy them. I havent used the Royal Pageant book.
 

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