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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Looking for some advice. A few months back, I picked up some of EdMorel's Cashmere/Silk Zegna x Vacheron Constantin cloth. I think it's 51% Silk/49% Cashmere in a fairly muted dark blue barleycorn.


It has an incredibly smooth handle, It's a beautiful fabric, but I'm struggling to decide what to do with it.

I have a jacket's length (would be too delicate to wear as a two piece).
The three options I'm currently weighing up are:
1.) Standard Sport Coat - I generally only wear very soft Neapolitan style 3r2, so something like that.
2.) Single Breasted Peak Lapel jacket. Not something I've ever done, but I figured this fabric has a certain formality about it, so it could work. I was thinking a one button with jetted pockets. Not sure when I'd wear that though.
3.) Alternative evening wear DB Shawl - 4 on 1 with jetted pockets, something along the lines of this. I picture a jacket with a white shirt and charcoal pants. Possibly with a silk bandana tied round the neck on an open collar (although I understand that is almost certainly a bit too rakish for this thread/forum!)
View attachment 1312515

Would love some ideas/input!
Hard to tell from the photo, but that fabric looks like an odd material for a sport coat to me.

Personally would be wary of getting a single-breasted peak lapel unless I've seen a few examples from the tailor that I like. IMO, that's a hard style to cut well. I would also only do it for something like a summer evening jacket, like one made from midnight silk.
 

buddyfuzz

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Hard to tell from the photo, but that fabric looks like an odd material for a sport coat to me.

Personally would be wary of getting a single-breasted peak lapel unless I've seen a few examples from the tailor that I like. IMO, that's a hard style to cut well. I would also only do it for something like a summer evening jacket, like one made from midnight silk.
I believe the picture is of the reverse of the fabric (it's the outside of the roll, I think). It's not an overly odd material for an odd jacket, but it would be hard to pair with chinos/denim etc, it's definitely a formal fabric that would require 'proper' trousers, as it were. It's smooth, but doesn't appear like an orphaned suit jacket in real life.

I am wary of single breasted peak lapel, for reasons you mention, but I worry if a regular notch lapel jacket wouldn't match the formality of the fabric. It's a real tough one.
 

amiga505

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could someone please enlighten me on so called 'pepper-and-salt' cloth? I understand that it refers to a particular colouring, but what is it exactly - a kind of tweed, flannel?
 

Concordia

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Looking for some advice. A few months back, I picked up some of EdMorel's Cashmere/Silk Zegna x Vacheron Constantin cloth. I think it's 51% Silk/49% Cashmere in a fairly muted dark blue barleycorn.


It has an incredibly smooth handle, It's a beautiful fabric, but I'm struggling to decide what to do with it.

I have a jacket's length (would be too delicate to wear as a two piece).
The three options I'm currently weighing up are:
1.) Standard Sport Coat - I generally only wear very soft Neapolitan style 3r2, so something like that.
2.) Single Breasted Peak Lapel jacket. Not something I've ever done, but I figured this fabric has a certain formality about it, so it could work. I was thinking a one button with jetted pockets. Not sure when I'd wear that though.
3.) Alternative evening wear DB Shawl - 4 on 1 with jetted pockets, something along the lines of this. I picture a jacket with a white shirt and charcoal pants. Possibly with a silk bandana tied round the neck on an open collar (although I understand that is almost certainly a bit too rakish for this thread/forum!)
View attachment 1312515

Would love some ideas/input!
3-button. It is meant to be. Don't fuck around.

If you want to pull it out of blazer country, you could do horn buttons, or dark blue MOP. Not gilt, to be sure. Bronze or gunmetal if you're determined to go for a blazer-ish thing.
 

buddyfuzz

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3-button. It is meant to be. Don't fuck around.

If you want to pull it out of blazer country, you could do horn buttons, or dark blue MOP. Not gilt, to be sure. Bronze or gunmetal if you're determined to go for a blazer-ish thing.
I had a feeling that I'd just go for this in the end, since it's what I know and like, and change terrifies me. 3roll2, generous notch lapel, soft shoulders, jetted pockets, maybe brown horn buttons.
 

Concordia

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I had a feeling that I'd just go for this in the end, since it's what I know and like, and change terrifies me. 3roll2, generous notch lapel, soft shoulders, jetted pockets, maybe brown horn buttons.
Never quite seen the point of brown horn. But that could solve the problem.
 

dukeaw

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All,

I am working with my local tailor on some MTM commissions in anticipation of summer... I know its January, right? But between selecting fabrics, I wont get him the cloth until mid Feb and with a 2 month lead time it will be April. So I'm on my game.

I'm looking at commissioning linen suits. I'm looking at his house books. He has Holland and Sherry Linen. I recently put him in touch with a local supplier of W. Bill to get their book as well. However, those are priced a bit beyond my budget if he sources the fabrics (ballpark $2000).

He will CMT for around $1000.

I came across Moygashel Irish Linen (Spence Bryson from Ulster Weavers) in their tropical weight. The Holland and Sherry and W. Bill seem to be 10-13oz compared to the Spence Bryson Irish linen Tropical in 225g/8oz. However, I'm in the NYC/tri-state area and maybe that lighter weight would be better. The kicker is that its about ~$20-30 per yard! They even sent me their full tropical linen book.

Does anyone have experience with the Spence Bryson Irish linen? How does it compare to the more well known mill's/merchants like Holland and Sherry or W.Bill?
 
Last edited:

The Chai

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All,

I am working with my local tailor on some MTM commissions in anticipation of summer... I know its January, right? But between selecting fabrics, I wont get him the cloth until mid Feb and with a 2 month lead time it will be April. So I'm on my game.

I'm looking at commissioning linen suits. I'm looking at his house books. He has Holland and Sherry Linen. I recently put him in touch with a local supplier of W. Bill to get their book as well. However, those are priced a bit beyond my budget if he sources the fabrics (ballpark $2000).

He will CMT for around $1000.

I came across Moygashel Irish Linen (Spence Bryson from Ulster Weavers) in their tropical weight. The Holland and Sherry and W. Bill seem to be 10-13oz compared to the Spence Bryson Irish linen Tropical in 225g/8oz. However, I'm in the NYC/tri-state area and maybe that lighter weight would be better. The kicker is that its about ~$20-30 per yard! They even sent me their full tropical linen book.

Does anyone have experience with the Spence Bryson Irish linen? How does it compare to the more well known mill's/merchants like Holland and Sherry or W.Bill?
The tropical linen is not 225g it’s 225gsm which means it’s 480g per linear metre...way heavier than anything w bill or holland and sherry have
 

dukeaw

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The tropical linen is not 225g it’s 225gsm which means it’s 480g per linear metre...way heavier than anything w bill or holland and sherry have
I thought~150cm was the standard width so that would make these 255g? Or am I mistaken?

1312841
1312844
1312846
 

The Chai

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I thought~150cm was the standard width so that would make these 255g? Or am I mistaken?

View attachment 1312841View attachment 1312844View attachment 1312846
Yes you are not wrong. 150cm is indeed the standard width, but when Holland and Sherry/W Bill say their linen is 310-340 grams they are referring to the weight per linear metre. If you look at the label from the Tropical Range it says 255grams per square metre...so you take that number amd multiply it by 1.6 and you get its weight per linear metre which comes up to 408 grams/12oz per linear metre (oops I have a different linen from them which is considerably heavier)
 

dukeaw

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Yes you are not wrong. 150cm is indeed the standard width, but when Holland and Sherry/W Bill say their linen is 310-340 grams they are referring to the weight per linear metre. If you look at the label from the Tropical Range it says 255grams per square metre...so you take that number amd multiply it by 1.6 and you get its weight per linear metre which comes up to 408 grams/12oz per linear metre (oops I have a different linen from them which is considerably heavier)
Thank you for clarifying this.

It seems you are familiar with their linen and have used it in a heavier weight though? Do you have any opinion on its quality as a suit compared to the other mentioned options? As in, is there a jump in quality that I'd be pennywise and pound foolish to not consider the higher price for H&S or W.Bill, or are they relatively equivalent in quality?
 

The Chai

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Thank you for clarifying this.

It seems you are familiar with their linen and have used it in a heavier weight though? Do you have any opinion on its quality as a suit compared to the other mentioned options? As in, is there a jump in quality that I'd be pennywise and pound foolish to not consider the higher price for H&S or W.Bill, or are they relatively equivalent in quality?
sent u a pm
 

jonathanS

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All,

I am working with my local tailor on some MTM commissions in anticipation of summer... I know its January, right? But between selecting fabrics, I wont get him the cloth until mid Feb and with a 2 month lead time it will be April. So I'm on my game.

I'm looking at commissioning linen suits. I'm looking at his house books. He has Holland and Sherry Linen. I recently put him in touch with a local supplier of W. Bill to get their book as well. However, those are priced a bit beyond my budget if he sources the fabrics (ballpark $2000).

He will CMT for around $1000.

I came across Moygashel Irish Linen (Spence Bryson from Ulster Weavers) in their tropical weight. The Holland and Sherry and W. Bill seem to be 10-13oz compared to the Spence Bryson Irish linen Tropical in 225g/8oz. However, I'm in the NYC/tri-state area and maybe that lighter weight would be better. The kicker is that its about ~$20-30 per yard! They even sent me their full tropical linen book.

Does anyone have experience with the Spence Bryson Irish linen? How does it compare to the more well known mill's/merchants like Holland and Sherry or W.Bill?
I always stayed away from lightweight linen. 12 oz minimum. 14 oz good too. The weight helps with the wrinkles.
 

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