Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

tangentially related to the topic of herringbone tweeds - are different merchant versions of Harris Tweed all relatively the same except for the design aspect? I notice that W. Bill has some, and so does Holland and Sherry, and I'm sure many more...Is the term Harris Tweed like a DOP?

Asking cause I'm looking for recommendations for a grey herringbone tweed in the 13-16oz range...and leaning towards the Holland and Sherry one (cause i liked the way it looked on the Steed instagram) but am open to other (read: more affordable) options...

 

[Simon A]

The Harris Tweed Authority activated its new website today, it will tell you what you need to know about the protection of the term "Harris Tweed"

https://www.harristweed.org/

 

[dieworkwear]

tangentially related to the topic of herringbone tweeds - are different merchant versions of Harris Tweed all relatively the same except for the design aspect? I notice that W. Bill has some, and so does Holland and Sherry, and I'm sure many more...Is the term Harris Tweed like a DOP?

Asking cause I'm looking for recommendations for a grey herringbone tweed in the 13-16oz range...and leaning towards the Holland and Sherry one (cause i liked the way it looked on the Steed instagram) but am open to other (read: more affordable) options...

the harris ive handled has all been mostly the same except for design. that said, design matters a lot.

 

[classicalthunde]

the harris ive handled has all been mostly the same except for design. that said, design matters a lot.

Derek, do you know of any particular mills/merchants/bunches that do a harris tweed herringbone on the wider side similar to the example you posted?

 

[dieworkwear]

Derek, do you know of any particular mills/merchants/bunches that do a harris tweed herringbone on the wider side similar to the example you posted?

i dont. that ll tweed was a really special run imo

 

[DavidLane]

I recently picked up a Harris Tweed from Urgha Loom Shed and it is noticeably more dense/less spongy than some other Harris Tweeds I have handled. I have always wanted a plain charcoal sport coat.

*Edit: Note it is single width so order double.

Worth a look.

-DL

 

[circumspice]

Derek, do you know of any particular mills/merchants/bunches that do a harris tweed herringbone on the wider side similar to the example you posted?

This is a kinda cool / kinda tricky to wear navy and cream herringbone -> http://www.taobhtuathtweeds.com/12-x-12-herringbone/

I say tricky to wear as I am not a OCBD guy - if you have white OCBD, you are golden

 

[yanagi]

This is a kinda cool / kinda tricky to wear navy and cream herringbone -> http://www.taobhtuathtweeds.com/12-x-12-herringbone/

I say tricky to wear as I am not a OCBD guy - if you have white OCBD, you are golden

I think the trickiness comes from the cream part of the herringbone; it becomes a much lighter blue overall, so your typical blue shirt wouldn't create enough (or any) contrast.

But an OCBD in either white or pink would work well.

 

[CorozoButton]

Looking for some advice. A few months back, I picked up some of EdMorel's Cashmere/Silk Zegna x Vacheron Constantin cloth. I think it's 51% Silk/49% Cashmere in a fairly muted dark blue barleycorn.

It has an incredibly smooth handle, It's a beautiful fabric, but I'm struggling to decide what to do with it.

I have a jacket's length (would be too delicate to wear as a two piece).
The three options I'm currently weighing up are:
1.) Standard Sport Coat - I generally only wear very soft Neapolitan style 3r2, so something like that.
2.) Single Breasted Peak Lapel jacket. Not something I've ever done, but I figured this fabric has a certain formality about it, so it could work. I was thinking a one button with jetted pockets. Not sure when I'd wear that though.
3.) Alternative evening wear DB Shawl - 4 on 1 with jetted pockets, something along the lines of this. I picture a jacket with a white shirt and charcoal pants. Possibly with a silk bandana tied round the neck on an open collar (although I understand that is almost certainly a bit too rakish for this thread/forum!)

Would love some ideas/input!

 

[The Chai]

I’m a sucker for the sbpl. I personally think it would look good as a minimalist jacket for a night out

 

[CorozoButton]

I’m a sucker for the sbpl. I personally think it would look good as a minimalist jacket for a night out

Do you go 1 button or 2 for your SBPLs?

 

[The Chai]

Do you go 1 button or 2 for your SBPLs?

I think a sbpl demands one button...u could go two but I think one looks better for the elegant minimalist look

 

[CorozoButton]

I think a sbpl demands one button...u could go two but I think one looks better for the elegant minimalist look

I agree. My concern is my style is very much lack of structure, no shoulder padding, and I wonder if that will clash a little with the formality of the peak lapel, especially if I'm going minimal with one button and jetted pockets. Do you have any pictures of SBPLs (yours or others) that you think really nails it?

 

[The Chai]

I agree. My concern is my style is very much lack of structure, no shoulder padding, and I wonder if that will clash a little with the formality of the peak lapel, especially if I'm going minimal with one button and jetted pockets. Do you have any pictures of SBPLs (yours or others) that you think really nails it?

I am of the opinion a peak lapel can look sharp and relaxed. I’m currently playing with the idea of a 1b sbpl cream suit with spalla camicia shoulders. Don’t currently have any photos of myself as I recently formatted my phone but here are some images of others I have collected on my Dropbox for inspiration. I think it’s a very very specific casual look. Think monotonous tones. I wouldn’t wear it with a tie per se (though I regularly wear it with a tie and charcoal cav twill odd trousers) but with dark (think navy/black/charcoal) long sleeve polos, turtlenecks, plain white/cream shirt and knits or plain white/cream shirt combo. It’s a modern lounge lizard look

 

[Mr. Six]

Which herringbone tweeds have that scale? (I don't know what the new run is like. I'm referring to the old run).

View attachment 1311615

Looks like the Lovat Etrick might have one herringbone tweed at that scale. Hard to tell form photos, of course. And not as nice a color.