Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[patliean1]

I'm learning so much about cloth these days...

 

[patrickBOOTH]

That's true, although Fox Brothers cloth is also very expensive. At least when I inquired about organizing a custom run. They do try to maintain a global price so that you're not undercutting them or their partners. But the wholesale price is such that you can't sell it for much less than the global price anyway without losing money.

I got this Giant Fucking Lapels™️ Fox overcoat made up last year, 24oz cloth. It didn’t cost me anything more than any other overcoat. Maybe my tailor assumed the same price and didn’t flow it through to me in the end?

Maybe I’m just a pleb but I like grabbing fabric I know I’ll use in the future not because I think I’ll get a better deal, but rather to spread the cost of the suit over time.

 

[Alan Bee]

View attachment 1283037

I got this Giant Fucking Lapels™️ Fox overcoat made up last year, 24oz cloth. It didn’t cost me anything more than any other overcoat. Maybe my tailor assumed the same price and didn’t flow it through to me in the end?

Maybe I’m just a pleb but I like grabbing fabric I know I’ll use in the future not because I think I’ll get a better deal, but rather to spread the cost of the suit over time.

@patrickBOOTH

Booth, I see your insistence on all things black extends well beyond shoes. Do you own any black suits?

Alan Bee

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Well to be fair, it is charcoal and a heavily heathered herringbone. I don't own any black suits, but I did when I was in college. I do have a black sportcoat that is super lightweight I wear in the summer with jeans.

 

[Alan Bee]

Well to be fair, it is charcoal and a heavily heathered herringbone. I don't own any black suits, but I did when I was in college. I do have a black sportcoat that is super lightweight I wear in the summer with jeans.

With black gloves, and black silk grenadine necktie, and most certainly a black pair of oxfords

 

[lordsuperb]

Well to be fair, it is charcoal and a heavily heathered herringbone. I don't own any black suits, but I did when I was in college. I do have a black sportcoat that is super lightweight I wear in the summer with jeans.

Schweddy balls .

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Year round.

 

[patliean1]

Wait...you have schweddy balls year round, or you wear jeans year round?

Asking for a friend...

 

[patrickBOOTH]

The first one.

 

[lordsuperb]

I'm learning so much about cloth these days...

If you haven’t had anything made before I would run away now while you still can. Having the knowledge of how things are supposed to fit properly will turn you off to normal clothes you can buy at most department stores.

 

[patliean1]

If you haven’t had anything made before I would run away now while you still can. Having the knowledge of how things are supposed to fit properly will turn you off to normal clothes you can buy at most department stores.

Sorry, I should have clarified that I've been far removed from RTW in favor of MTM for about five years now. But on rare occasions my tailor isn't able to obtain certain fabrics without my intervention.

 

[lordsuperb]

@aristoi bcn put me on to this and I wanted to ask the question. Is cashmere mock leno an oxymoron?

Harrison's Extraordinaire

 

[bdavro23]

@aristoi bcn put me on to this and I wanted to ask the question. Is cashmere mock leno an oxymoron?

Harrison's Extraordinaire

View attachment 1283347

I would have serious concerns about the durability of that cloth if its woven in the same open weave as other mock lenos. Also, as a Boothian sweat monster myself, thinking about wearing cashmere in the summer troubles my endocrine system just sitting here.

 

[RogerC]

I would have serious concerns about the durability of that cloth if its woven in the same open weave as other mock lenos. Also, as a Boothian sweat monster myself, thinking about wearing cashmere in the summer troubles my endocrine system just sitting here.

There are a few fabric houses that use cashmere in summer. Piacenza has a bunch called Panarea which is about 50/50 cashmere/silk in a plain weave. I do think, however, that that's the point where the "luxury" element takes precedence over actually added value. Certainly, my bog basic mesh summer jackets do all I want them to do.

 

[bdavro23]

There are a few fabric houses that use cashmere in summer. Piacenza has a bunch called Panarea which is about 50/50 cashmere/silk in a plain weave. I do think, however, that that's the point where the "luxury" element takes precedence over actually added value. Certainly, my bog basic mesh summer jackets do all I want them to do.

I actually have a Piacenza account and have played around with the cloth. While I really like a lot of the designs and the stuff feels amazing, it is definitely aimed at the luxury market. And I still dont know how silk and cashmere, really at any weight, makes a lot of sense for summer.

With that said, I would take a closet full of the stuff for 3 season wear though!