Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

I'd think about getting something similar if I needed it. IMO, the Italians are a little more casual about names for twills. That, to me, looks like whipcord not cavalry twill.

Agreed. The twills look tightly spaced like a whipcord rather than widely spaced like a cav twill

 

[HuggyBear]

On the other hand after 10 blue and grey suits, I’m making my first foray into other colours and will be funding these two as full suits.
The brown POW with blue over check is 100% wool @12oz from Holland & Sherry

The beige twill is 100% wool @ View attachment 1239451 View attachment 1239452 14oz from Huddersfield

So I’ve now made up the Holland & Sherry POW check

Any comments on fit appreciated

 

[mactire]

Dear Gentlemen,

Let us see what the writer of the article states about the provenance of the cloth:

"Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g)."

Cheers,

Dimitris

Is the cloth number just 584?

 

[9thsymph]

Has anyone made up a jacket in Fox Air? I know high-twist bunches are usually for suiting, but some the patterns in the Fox Air bunch seem like they are more geared toward a jacket rather than a suit. Thoughts...?

Olive base Russet and Denim Check

Fox Air Plain Weave Olive base Russet and Denim Check CODE: FA32 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted This plain weave is a check with an Olive base and Russet and Denim Check deco. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[mercury]

Fox Air has some in there that's definitely for jackets only.

Even that link says: "All suitable for suiting and jacketing..."

I'm currently getting a sport coat made from the Golden Fox book, and will be getting a Fox Air one shortly after.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Is the cloth number just 584?

Dear @mactire,

I just quoted the author's citation; I literally copied from his article and pasted here his own sentence. More to that, I do not have (or have access to) this bunch to inform you.

I think that in his own blog, in each article, one may contact him for either comments or further information.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[MenWithStyl3]

Are there any light brown glencheck (without overchecks) cashmere wool blend cloth like the jacket on the left?

 

[hpreston]

Has anyone made up a jacket in Fox Air? I know high-twist bunches are usually for suiting, but some the patterns in the Fox Air bunch seem like they are more geared toward a jacket rather than a suit. Thoughts...?

Olive base Russet and Denim Check

Fox Air Plain Weave Olive base Russet and Denim Check CODE: FA32 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted This plain weave is a check with an Olive base and Russet and Denim Check deco. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I recently had a sport coat made up by Carrera at No Man Walk Alone in this:

Plain Weave Grey, Slate and Black Gunclub Check

Fox Air Plain Weave Grey, Slate and Black Gunclub Check CODE: FA8 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted This cloth is a light Grey, Slate and Black classic Gunclub Check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

It came in just as summer was ending in my part of the world, but am looking forward to wearing it quite a bit next spring/summer.

I also had suit done in this (From Ring Jacket Through the Armoury) and am looking at doing the blue version next year.

Plain Weave Charcoal Classic Prince of Wales Check

Fox Air Plain Weave Charcoal Classic Prince of Wales Check CODE: FA2 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted This cloth is a Charcoal classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @MenWithStyl3,

If you are not adamant on wool-cashmere blend and you would consider a 100% wool light brown glen check with no overcheck, Loro Piana in its "Pecora Nera" line has two propositions:

Best,

Dimitris

 

[supern0va]

Want to get some views from people here. I’m thinking of commissioning a FW sports jacket, and am considering 2 fairly different fabrics - caccioppoli POW, or loro piana gun club. Both are from the recent FW collections.

Any views/advice? Thanks.

 

[Bromley]

Both look really nice. The Caccioppoli check looks like it might be easier to wear.

 

[hpreston]

Want to get some views from people here. I’m thinking of commissioning a FW sports jacket, and am considering 2 fairly different fabrics - caccioppoli POW, or loro piana gun club. Both are from the recent FW collections.

Any views/advice? Thanks.

Spoiler: Pics

View attachment 1257206

Both look really nice. The Caccioppoli check looks like it might be easier to wear.

Personally, I love a gun club, so I would choose the LP. Also, much depends on what else is in your current sport coat lineup. @Bromley could be on to something with the versatility of the POW, but if you already have something similar then gun club all the way.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @supern0va,

You received some solid advice above from our fellow members, if I may add something, I would highlight the difference in weight of those two fabrics.

Although both fabrics are made of 100% wool, so no difference there, the Loro Piana weights 280grams, whereas the Caccioppoli one 320grams; sometimes this is a considerable difference, so you have to factor it in your decision. Depends of course on your climate and personal tolerance and preference.

Finally, nothing like the first hand experience, so I urge you to get swatches because the hand of each fabric might be quite distinct as well.

Best to your sartorial project,

Dimitris

 

[kolecho]

Looking for a navy seersucker cloth in cotton for a jacket. Any suggestions?

 

[bdavro23]

Looking for a navy seersucker cloth in cotton for a jacket. Any suggestions?

Solbiati?