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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I have 16oz cord trousers, mid-wale, that I like. They're from Eskdale.
 

dan'l

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Just ordered Derek’s oxford, will post once I get it. Gonna do my typical Hemrajani order with it, basic Neapolitan spread, French placket no pocket no gauntlet button. Been pretty pleased with their work so far.
Unfortunately I missed this. As much as I enjoyed reading Derek's blog in the past, I haven't kept up with it since I stopped using tumblr. I really liked his summer tweed; I had a SC made and it is one of my regular go-to pieces in the spring/summer.

@dieworkwear, in the future, please post a PSA in this thread if you organize other custom runs!
 

dieworkwear

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Unfortunately I missed this. As much as I enjoyed reading Derek's blog in the past, I haven't kept up with it since I stopped using tumblr. I really liked his summer tweed; I had a SC made and it is one of my regular go-to pieces in the spring/summer.

@dieworkwear, in the future, please post a PSA in this thread if you organize other custom runs!
I'm not a paying affiliate on this board, so I can't post anything commercial, unfortunately.

FWIW, you can always keep up with a blog (including mine) using an RSS feed. If you don't already use one, I use Blogtrottr to get blog content delivered straight to my email in-box. It's basically an RSS feed that converts content into emails.

 

dan'l

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OK, understood. I wouldn't want you to run afoul of the mods, though I personally wouldn't consider a group buy of cloth to be a commercial endeavor.

Thanks for the tip on using an RSS feed. I haven't used one before; perhaps I should give it a go.
 

winghus

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tumblr is totally blocked at work, so sites that use it for picture storage I only see text.
 

lngn2

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I am about to purchase lining material, I am considering black bemberg and a full length front lining. how much of, say, 110 cm. wide fabric will I need? thank you.
What waist size are you..? For myself (32" waist), half lined, I buy 1/2 trouser length + a few inches (6" should be enough to allow inlay) - that usually allows me to line the trouser to the knee and to use the lining as curtain and waistband lining.

Full answer to your question - full trouser length + 6 inches. If you're looking at a large waist size then the same length as you'd buy for the trouser itself.
 

dan'l

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^ On all my bespoke trousers (from different tailors), the lining is different from the material used for the waistband. Are there tailors that use Bemberg for both?
 

The Chai

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^ On all my bespoke trousers (from different tailors), the lining is different from the material used for the waistband. Are there tailors that use Bemberg for both?
Don’t they usually use cotton Silesia for the waistband
 

mactire

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A few made by an Irish tailor who worked in London for years makes them with a bemberg lining. Everyone else is cotton though.
 

lngn2

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I have a mix in the wardrobe - bemberg, sleeve lining, silesia. Personally I rather like the entire inside to match, though silesia may have a slight advantage in terms of durability.
 

dan'l

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Interesting! I’d think that a Bemberg-lined waistband would be too slick and the trousers would slide down. But I guess that’s what braces are for! :)
 

smittycl

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What do you call this fabric lining used by Rota? Is silesia just cotton?

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