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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

TheloniusDrunk

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I've had this idea to get a military style overcoat done, a la this David Taub blogpost.

I want to do it in a grey herringbone, navy herringbone, or navy moleskin. However, is it possible to get a herringbone moleskin? Probably a stupid question, I think moleskin refers to material and finish but I don't know if that precludes making it a herringbone pattern as well.
 

Winot

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I've had this idea to get a military style overcoat done, a la this David Taub blogpost.

I want to do it in a grey herringbone, navy herringbone, or navy moleskin. However, is it possible to get a herringbone moleskin? Probably a stupid question, I think moleskin refers to material and finish but I don't know if that precludes making it a herringbone pattern as well.
Funnily enough I saw that blogpost a few years back and as a result commissioned Davide to make me the same coat. Ended up choosing a grey large scale herringbone. It’s wonderful.

I’ve never heard of anything other than a plain moleskin. Ask your tailor?
 

Simon A

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I've had this idea to get a military style overcoat done, a la this David Taub blogpost.

I want to do it in a grey herringbone, navy herringbone, or navy moleskin. However, is it possible to get a herringbone moleskin? Probably a stupid question, I think moleskin refers to material and finish but I don't know if that precludes making it a herringbone pattern as well.
Moleskin is a brushed twill-weave fabric made from cotton. Hence a herringbone can't be a moleskin. Cotton is not a good choice for a winter overcoat; it's adequate for autumn/spring though.

If you want a woollen fabric with that soft brushed feel and appearance, you could consider flannel or doeskin. Hainsworth are the best-known producer of doeskin, and they make it up to 30 oz/yard2 for the Canadian Army.
 

Fonz4

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You, sir, are correct. This is a good chance to pick your brain:

- looking for a double-breasted coat cut to fit over a suit
- Navy wool/cashmere blend would be nice, can be a shade or two lighter than standard Navy blue
- hate full length coats, prefer at or maybe just below knee, close to car coat length
- love bold (almost Gestapo-bold) peak lapels, hate the small ones with horizontal top edges
- slanted hand warmer pockets, hate patch pockets, besom pockets below hand warmer pockets okay

I realize I’m describing a long Pea Coat of sorts. What do you think?
Seems you are describing the incoming PWVC overcoat. Wait till september for the release.
 

Fonz4

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I've had this idea to get a military style overcoat done, a la this David Taub blogpost.

I want to do it in a grey herringbone, navy herringbone, or navy moleskin. However, is it possible to get a herringbone moleskin? Probably a stupid question, I think moleskin refers to material and finish but I don't know if that precludes making it a herringbone pattern as well.
This is available from Chrysalys through Country Sports. But not herringbone sorry.
 

TheloniusDrunk

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Funnily enough I saw that blogpost a few years back and as a result commissioned Davide to make me the same coat. Ended up choosing a grey large scale herringbone. It’s wonderful.

I’ve never heard of anything other than a plain moleskin. Ask your tailor?
Well you can’t say that without providing pictures please!
 

TheloniusDrunk

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Moleskin is a brushed twill-weave fabric made from cotton. Hence a herringbone can't be a moleskin. Cotton is not a good choice for a winter overcoat; it's adequate for autumn/spring though.

If you want a woollen fabric with that soft brushed feel and appearance, you could consider flannel or doeskin. Hainsworth are the best-known producer of doeskin, and they make it up to 30 oz/yard2 for the Canadian Army.
I'll look into this, thank you! From a cursory search it doesn't look like they have a herringbone in the deerskin.

From an old thread on London Lounge I was also recommended HE Box 32 oz but I can't seem to locate that anywhere.

I may be lambasted for this, but I'd prefer a synthetic fabric if possible for personal reasons. If that's the case, does anyone have a high quality, grey or navy herringbone (or plain navy) synthetic cloth that would be good for this winter coat? If not, open to any suggestions.
 

Concordia

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Has anyone taken delivery of the new blue and grey Piumas from the LL and would be willing to share photos?

Thanks!
Not Piumas, I think. More the DD midweight worsted. Pretty straightforward 12/13oz twill-- dark mid/edging to charcoal grey and navy.
 

mactire

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I'll look into this, thank you! From a cursory search it doesn't look like they have a herringbone in the deerskin.

From an old thread on London Lounge I was also recommended HE Box 32 oz but I can't seem to locate that anywhere.

I may be lambasted for this, but I'd prefer a synthetic fabric if possible for personal reasons. If that's the case, does anyone have a high quality, grey or navy herringbone (or plain navy) synthetic cloth that would be good for this winter coat? If not, open to any suggestions.
Have you contacted HE box at all?

Hainsworth have a few ranges and weights:

Duffle 80/20 wool/nylon https://www.hainsworth.co.uk/collections/duffle/

Pilot Cloth

True Heritage

Pioneer
 

reidd

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Gentlemen,

Quick question. Can lambswool be used for trousering? Say around 20oz (580 grams).


Does it wear as warm as flannel? And what separates it from traditional woolen flannel?

Alan Bee
I would think that could work for trousers especially given the weight although I haven't seen this bunch in person. Hard to tell if its twill or plain weave or if its woolen or worsted yarn. Twill would be better for trousers but even is its worsted, it would probably wear a lot like a very heavy worsted flannel.
 

kngrimm

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Is there a post or forum where people do group buys (or just buy wool directly from a seller) on nice wools, e.g., fox flannel? If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thank you.
 

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