• We would like to welcome Craftsman Clothing back as an official Affiliate Vendor. Craftsman Clothing is a brand for the refined men who want to look good with minimal effort, and care about products that are well-made. In additon to being a go-to brand for all things essential, Craftsman Clothing also offers bespoke outerwear that’s uniquely crafted for you. Please visit their thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
35,490
Reaction score
10,485
@patrickBOOTH

Booth, incidentally I’m wearing a Lesser Tropical 9oz 2pc suit (tobacco) today. While it’s a lovely fabric (amazing hand), it barely holds crease and doesn’t hang like steel as I tend to like my pants.

I was drawn to gabardine because as I understand it, it’s the perfect thing for odd dress trousers because it hold a mean crease and hangs like iron.

I’m looking for a spring/summer trousering that will be cut “Full and High Rise”. I really want the thing to “sway” when I walk. Lesser 8/9oz won’t give you that sway ...

I’ve seen 260gram Gabardine but can’t find heavier. Reading through the archives, Will Boehlke says the lighter stuff wrinkles like tissue paper. He recommends the 360 gram tho.

Alan Bee
Hmm it seems we have different definitions of "hangs like iron". To me hanging like iron and swaying are completely at odds with each other. I have never heard anybody say Lesser doesn't hang like iron. Also I hae never had issues with it holding a crease.

Have you worn fresco?
 

Bespoke DJP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
339
Reaction score
128
Dear @Alan Bee,

Indeed, it's been some time!

Let me post an image of the bunch (courtesy of Hall Madden) just for you to verify its provenance.

I haven't made trousers from this bunch yet, my cloth provider - whom I trust completely - says it's kind of heavy for the Greek weather standards, still, it is a really interesting cloth and I am intrigued. Who knows, maybe in next Spring!

Best,

Dimitris
 

Attachments

Alan Bee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
1,110
Reaction score
4,064
Hmm it seems we have different definitions of "hangs like iron". To me hanging like iron and swaying are completely at odds with each other. I have never heard anybody say Lesser doesn't hang like iron. Also I hae never had issues with it holding a crease.

Have you worn fresco?
@patrickBOOTH

Booth, I have quite a few suits in No. 303 Lesser 13oz and they are built like tanks and hang like a steel. But the 8/9oz doesn't come close to the 13oz. In all fairness, for an 8/9oz it performs well for a lightweight. But I'm looking for something that hangs like its got ankle weights on it yet can be worn in Summer/Spring.

Fresco:
Yes, I have a number of odd trousers in H&S Crispaire's, a suit in Smith Finmerecso 13oz, and a suit in Harrisons Spring Ram 13oz. They are all nice options but don't have that dressy finish and hand of Garb. Of the three, Crispaire has the best hand.

When I say sway, when you wear a full cut trouser in drapy cloth, it moves like a palm tree in wind when you move because of all the loose cloth. Especially the lower block (knee to hem).

Alan Bee
 

Alan Bee

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
1,110
Reaction score
4,064
Dear @Alan Bee,

Indeed, it's been some time!

Let me post an image of the bunch (courtesy of Hall Madden) just for you to verify its provenance.

I haven't made trousers from this bunch yet, my cloth provider - whom I trust completely - says it's kind of heavy for the Greek weather standards, still, it is a really interesting cloth and I am intrigued. Who knows, maybe in next Spring!

Best,

Dimitris
@Bespoke DJP

Honestly Dimitris, I cant recall the (Zegna) book even with a gun to my head. I had those pants made 4 years ago and haven't been back to that tailor in years.

Alan Bee
 

classicalthunde

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
374
Reaction score
114
Looking to source a harris tweed for an overcoat that's like this, but can't seem to find anything. Anyone know a producer?

@paborden did you ever find anything that came close to this large scale herringbone? I've been on the look out myself after you posted it a while ago and am curious to see what you've come up with...the only thing that I've come a cross is sort of similar (but it looks like its a touch darker) the W Bill WB21703 in their classic coating bunch

@Despos or @dieworkwear any idea where to find a large scale herringbone overcoat fabric like this?
 

Bespoke DJP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
339
Reaction score
128
Dear @classicalthunde,

Should you wish to include Italian mills to your overcoating cloth inquiry, again Hallmadden(at)com helps us illustrate few choices: the overcoats' bunch of the Loro Piana "Pecora Nera" line has two herringbone fabrics, at different colors, weights, similar to what you are looking for.

Cheers,

Dimitris
 

Attachments

classicalthunde

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
374
Reaction score
114
The W Bill large herringbones are really nice, the medium blue and navy one is what they used for Daniel Day Lewis’s raglan in Phantom Thread
havent seen the movie, but just googled the picture and it looks to be about the same proportions as the Tailor Caid/Armoury pics!
 

classicalthunde

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
374
Reaction score
114
Dear @classicalthunde,

Should you wish to include Italian mills to your overcoating cloth inquiry, again Hallmadden(at)com helps us illustrate few choices: the overcoats' bunch of the Loro Piana "Pecora Nera" line has two herringbone fabrics, at different colors, weights, similar to what you are looking for.

Cheers,

Dimitris
thanks! it looks like their 720gms? not too worried about the provenance of the fabric, just want to get something suitable for a mid-atlantic winter that has the same look as the modeled pic

I wish more companies would do what Hall Madden does and make their books available to check out on the web...
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
13,507
Reaction score
30,603
@paborden did you ever find anything that came close to this large scale herringbone? I've been on the look out myself after you posted it a while ago and am curious to see what you've come up with...the only thing that I've come a cross is sort of similar (but it looks like its a touch darker) the W Bill WB21703 in their classic coating bunch

@Despos or @dieworkwear any idea where to find a large scale herringbone overcoat fabric like this?
I don't know if the fabric is still around, but VBC did some really nice herringbone overcoatings for Drapers. They were alpaca blends with a really nice mottled weave.
 

Featured Sponsor

HOW OFTEN DO YOU SHOP FOR CLOTHES ONLINE?

  • I mainly buy my clothes online.

  • I shop online only if there is a sale.

  • I shop online when shipping and returns are free.

  • I shop in store only for very expensive items I want to try on.

  • I mainly shop in store.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
425,070
Messages
9,128,407
Members
191,867
Latest member
meghna59

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top