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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Encathol Epistemia

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Suits dont always have to be for office wear. I often think its a waste wearing a lovely suit for work, much better for pleasure.
This is my philosophy. Nobody wears suits at my office. I'd be at the top of the sartorial totem pole just by dint of wearing a necktie! I wear suits, or at least a sport coat over my usual vest, trousers and dress shirt, outside of work most of the time. I discovered a long time ago that it's very comforting and satisfying for me. It's part of my weird tendency to like to dress in an eye-catching manner despite being a shy, retiring introvert who would generally prefer to be politely ignored. I've learned to accept the curious and incredulous stares or even comments with a wry grin and take it as a kind of compliment.

I mean, the nth time in any given day that I'm called, "dapper," can be a little wearying, but there are worse things to be called, like, "late for dinner," but mostly because that would just be assinine.
 

The Chai

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As somebody who wears a suit daily for no reason I agree. I'd just think one is probably not dancing in one most of the day. I could be wrong though.
It is just one of many personal romanticisations of mine inspired off old films, learn dance and dance in nice suit/DJ...one of my personal quirks is I generally only wear a necktie and no pocket square to work so I take more pleasure in pairing my suit up with a turtleneck/cravat/bowtie/neckerchief than a necktie or wearing a dinner jacket
 

mactire

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It's not the price but more the fit. I expect a fantastic fit through every bespoke tailors and then based sometimes on the price I expect more or less details, better sewing finishing and so on.

Overall, I would not spend all those money for a bespoke suit. In Naples (where I live) you can achieve better results with 1/5 of the price.

On the fit I completely agree with you. Actually we could not "judge" from a picture but standing in this way every suit should be immaculate like mines ahahah.
Ottimo! I'm sure everyone here would love recommendations, not just for tailors but for food, cafés, or interesting places in Napoli:

 

Despos

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Would be cool to hear how you would have done the shoulders differently, maybe picking one of the better examples Simon has posted, say the Careceni above.
Looked for an appropriate picture to demonstrate how it would differ but couldn't find one. Would work the shoulder forward for the forward pitch of his shoulder which would clean up the back as well. If you saw a picture of this it would make sense to you. If you compare the side profile pics, most of the sleeve caps are shaped like this, O. More of an oval shape with point of the oval on his shoulder point would change how the shoulder sits and translate to more freedom/movement on the shoulder. At least it works for me. Considering the shape of his hips, the side vents fall in the wrong area. This line can be moved and the vents would fall more gracefully.

It is just one of many personal romanticisations of mine inspired off old films, learn dance and dance in nice suit/DJ...
Have one client who competes in Ballroom Dance. There is a different cutting method for sleeves and armhole for this. A long time ago on a visit to LA I met the tailor who made most of Michael Jacksons tour clothes and he shared the techniques he uses. He sent me a pattern copy of Michaels sleeves. Have no idea where I put it. Didn't use it. It was so wonky I couldn't figure it out
 

The Chai

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Looked for an appropriate picture to demonstrate how it would differ but couldn't find one. Would work the shoulder forward for the forward pitch of his shoulder which would clean up the back as well. If you saw a picture of this it would make sense to you. If you compare the side profile pics, most of the sleeve caps are shaped like this, O. More of an oval shape with point of the oval on his shoulder point would change how the shoulder sits and translate to more freedom/movement on the shoulder. At least it works for me. Considering the shape of his hips, the side vents fall in the wrong area. This line can be moved and the vents would fall more gracefully.


Have one client who competes in Ballroom Dance. There is a different cutting method for sleeves and armhole for this. A long time ago on a visit to LA I met the tailor who made most of Michael Jacksons tour clothes and he shared the techniques he uses. He sent me a pattern copy of Michaels sleeves. Have no idea where I put it. Didn't use it. It was so wonky I couldn't figure it out
Yeah but the ballroom dance suits never really look normal for daily use so I was trying to achieve the best of both worlds
 

Despos

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Yeah but the ballroom dance suits never really look normal for daily use so I was trying to achieve the best of both worlds
Yep. It doesn't work in both worlds.
 

The Chai

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Yep. It doesn't work in both worlds.
I do think getting a bespoke suit you can achieve more than an off the peg suit. Won’t look as good ballroom dancing in a bespoke suit not meant for ballroom dancing but it would be better than a normal off the peg or mtm. I just want the manoeuvreability...and bespoke achieved that so an acceptable ‘best of both worlds’..
 

Fonz4

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Ottimo! I'm sure everyone here would love recommendations, not just for tailors but for food, cafés, or interesting places in Napoli:

Yes! Definitely. Drop me a private message and I will be happy to help you :)
 

TweedyProf

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Looked for an appropriate picture to demonstrate how it would differ but couldn't find one. Would work the shoulder forward for the forward pitch of his shoulder which would clean up the back as well. If you saw a picture of this it would make sense to you. If you compare the side profile pics, most of the sleeve caps are shaped like this, O. More of an oval shape with point of the oval on his shoulder point would change how the shoulder sits and translate to more freedom/movement on the shoulder. At least it works for me. Considering the shape of his hips, the side vents fall in the wrong area. This line can be moved and the vents would fall more gracefully.
Thanks Despos.
 

Concordia

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I do think getting a bespoke suit you can achieve more than an off the peg suit. Won’t look as good ballroom dancing in a bespoke suit not meant for ballroom dancing but it would be better than a normal off the peg or mtm. I just want the manoeuvreability...and bespoke achieved that so an acceptable ‘best of both worlds’..
Steven Hitchcock ‘s work usually does well at that. His website and Instagram pages have many examples.
 

jonathanS

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Does anyone know an alterations tailor who can fix the sleeve pitch in the us? I went back and forth with a tailor in Naples a while back & finally just gave up. Send it back 3 times. Thinking maybe will field in DC bc he does bespoke. But I’m unsure if he’ll be able to properly reattach the sleeve like a Neapolitan tailor. Or maybe ask a different Neapolitan tailor I’m working with to help me out. Thoughts? It really bothers me on an otherwise quite wearable suit.
 

Concordia

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Where in the US?
 

Spaghettimatt

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CMT question: I know the standard recommendation is 3.5-4 meters for a suit; 2.5 meters for a jacket, etc.

However, I'm a 34-35 extra short with a ~26" inseam. Can I get away with 2.5 meters for a full suit? Any smaller folk have experience here?
 

Spaghettimatt

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Does anyone know an alterations tailor who can fix the sleeve pitch in the us? I went back and forth with a tailor in Naples a while back & finally just gave up. Send it back 3 times. Thinking maybe will field in DC bc he does bespoke. But I’m unsure if he’ll be able to properly reattach the sleeve like a Neapolitan tailor. Or maybe ask a different Neapolitan tailor I’m working with to help me out. Thoughts? It really bothers me on an otherwise quite wearable suit.
I would think someone like Ercole in Brooklyn would be able to do this no problem.
 

Bromley

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CMT question: I know the standard recommendation is 3.5-4 meters for a suit; 2.5 meters for a jacket, etc.

However, I'm a 34-35 extra short with a ~26" inseam. Can I get away with 2.5 meters for a full suit? Any smaller folk have experience here?
There are additional factors to consider, but that's a really small amount of cloth. How will the suit be lined? What kind of pockets? SB or DB? Pleats? Cuffs? Does the cloth have a pattern? Or a nap/direction?
 

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