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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

bdavro23

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Agreed!


Thanks for the reply. The suit will be a Kent Wang MTM, so not bespoke money :).
I acutally mention it because cotton can be problematic to tailor because it can sometimes shoe the stitch marks if you need to change anything. I'm not saying dont do it, just wanted to give you a heads up.
 

ericgereghty

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In addition to my button dilemma, I’m planning a new SB suit in either a lightweight solaro; or a lightweight tan or khaki cotton.

For the solaro, I was looking at these:
View attachment 1144317 View attachment 1144318
… leaning towards the wool.

If I go with cotton, do you recommend Poplin or twill? Also, what’s a good weight for cotton? I’d like a casual Italian vibe, lightweight (I want to be Yukio Akamine). I have a British tan twill cotton suit, but the fabric is quite heavy 11oz or more, so I’m looking for alternatives. The cotton solaro might be an option as well.

Thanks again!
Go wool. Much more versatile, and just a better looking garment when made up overall.
 

macjedi

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I acutally mention it because cotton can be problematic to tailor because it can sometimes shoe the stitch marks if you need to change anything. I'm not saying dont do it, just wanted to give you a heads up.
Go wool. Much more versatile, and just a better looking garment when made up overall.
Thanks Gents! Very compelling arguments. I will hold on the cotton.
 

Despos

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Thanks Greg! Navy it is! Also, I have to mention that loved this look so much I've already ordered the tie, square and the shirt gets delivered Monday!

View attachment 1144404

Thanks for your help with the buttons. These are what I've found online. What do you think? The last one is the only one I found that referenced navy in the description.



View attachment 1144399
https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/buttons/mother-of-pearl/cobalt-blue-mother-of-pearl-buttons/
The set of buttons from the lining company are very bold/bright, almost neon. I have them and rarely find an opportunity to use them. Would be as loud as the white buttons you have now, in a different way
 

macjedi

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The set of buttons from the lining company are very bold/bright, almost neon. I have them and rarely find an opportunity to use them. Would be as loud as the white buttons you have now, in a different way
Yeah, I thought so too. I’ll probably go for these:
ATTACH]1144400[/ATTACH]
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dark-Navy-Mother-Of-Pearl-Buttons-Set-MOP-For-Suit-Blazer-or-Sportcoat-/271559732642?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10[/QUOTE]

Probably better darker than too blue.

The lining company also has unpolished navy horn which I thought about.
 

Concordia

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Horn, not MOP. Why screw around, unless you're looking for a beachwear BlazerSuit?
 
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gdl203

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Thanks Greg! Navy it is! Also, I have to mention that loved this look so much I've already ordered the tie, square and the shirt gets delivered Monday!

View attachment 1144404

Thanks for your help with the buttons. These are what I've found online. What do you think? The last one is the only one I found that referenced navy in the description.


View attachment 1144398
https://www.etsy.com/listing/232818199/deep-blue-luxurious-shell-buttons-set

View attachment 1144399
https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/buttons/mother-of-pearl/cobalt-blue-mother-of-pearl-buttons/


View attachment 1144400
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dark-Navy-Mother-Of-Pearl-Buttons-Set-MOP-For-Suit-Blazer-or-Sportcoat-/271559732642?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Thanks for the business! Hope everything fits :)

I'd go with the darkest ones (last set)
 

macjedi

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Thanks for the business! Hope everything fits :)

I'd go with the darkest ones (last set)
Yeah, I've never tried the G.Inglese shirts for fear that they would be too big. The new check fit feature was a big help. Finger's crossed.

Thanks again for chiming in on the buttons! New buttons inbound Wednesday!
 

mactire

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Sultans Fine Fabrics, North York, Toronto https://www.sultansfinefabrics.com

Hands down the equal of Caccioppolli or any other famous cloth merchant in Europe. Fantastic selection of cashmere coatings/jacketings, tweeds, linen, suitings, flannels, vintage tie-silks and shirtings.

Tons of stuff from Zegna, Loro Piano, Magee, Reid & Taylor etc.

Also tailoring canvasses, shoulder pads, horn buttons, interlinings and linings.

Prices in many cases are even better than buying from the mill direct.

IMG_20190314_154525.jpg


IMG_20190314_154113.jpg


IMG_20190314_154108.jpg


IMG_20190315_172148.jpg
 
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patliean1

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I’ve been to Caccioppolli in Naples, so you have me intrigued. Time for a road trip to Toronto
 

BernieL

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Hi All,

Does anyone have experience with Schofield and Smith Summer jacketings? @The Chai was kind enough to refer me to them and they seem to have a pretty compelling collection given my hesitation towards linen due to the wrinkling. I've been after a minimalistic summer glencheck without any blue or red borders and also found a moldy chocolate shade that gives off the muted Saman Amel vibe:

upload_2019-3-15_21-7-53.png


upload_2019-3-15_21-8-15.png


Please let me know what you all think - if someone has pictures of actual commissions or of the actual swatchbook itself, that would be very helpful as online pictures often don't give an accurate representation of the fabric in person.
 

circumspice

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@BernieL - just order swatches from them. They ship them via UPS at what is probably a loss to them. They are very snappy in turning stuff around - in July of 2017 I ordered swatches, received them, ordered a sport coat length from their winter lambswool book, and got it all in a 3 week period
 

reidd

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I have received a couple swatches from them. One is the linen, silk, mohair blend and the other is the palm beach. The blend is very light and open, would wear really cool i'd imagine. That POW you've posted is obviously a different bunch but probably in the same vein and is in fact even lighter weight than the swatch I have. The palm beach feels really smooth but is still dry. Good body. Would make a nice tropical trouser.
 

BernieL

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I have received a couple swatches from them. One is the linen, silk, mohair blend and the other is the palm beach. The blend is very light and open, would wear really cool i'd imagine. That POW you've posted is obviously a different bunch but probably in the same vein and is in fact even lighter weight than the swatch I have. The palm beach feels really smooth but is still dry. Good body. Would make a nice tropical trouser.
Thanks for your feedback. Do you think Palm Beach is more of a trouser fabric instead of jacketing?
 

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