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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

gdl203

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Trying to find a pale sand/oatmeal S/S jacketing fabric like this one from Loro Piana made up by Saman Amel:
View attachment 1143626

I've looked at Caccioppoli, Ariston, Loro Piana (new S/S 2019 jacketings), and even English mills but wasn't able to find anything comparable.

The closest thing I could find was this fabric from the Loro Piana Mare collection:
View attachment 1143627

View attachment 1143628

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

UPDATE: Just confirmed with Saman Amel that the SC is from the old LP Mare collection. The one I posted is the newer Mare, which is quite close. Case closed!
You want VBC Safari #310436. Wool silk linen in that oatmeal shade

image2 (1).jpeg
image3 (1).jpeg
 
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patliean1

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BernieL

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You want VBC Safari #310436. Wool silk linen in that oatmeal shade

View attachment 1144000
View attachment 1144001
@gdl203 @DavidLane

Wow, I never knew about this bunch from VBC. I think the shade is pretty spot on. I see that the fabric can be used for jacketing, trousers, and also suiting which is quite unusual. Are there any pros and cons I should be aware of if I choose the VBC over the Loro Piana Mare jacketing?

And thanks for the Fox recommendation David. I did come across it in my research - I believe it’s a wool linen blend. The shade is a bit too dark and not pale enough, but I do like the texture. It’s a shame that’s the lightest shade of beige they have.
 

dieworkwear

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I seem to remember that you mentioned the possibility of doing another production run and maybe a different color. Anything in the pipeline?
Been wanting to do other fabrics, but also been really hemmed up with other work projects. Hopefully soon!
 

gdl203

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@gdl203 @DavidLane

Wow, I never knew about this bunch from VBC. I think the shade is pretty spot on. I see that the fabric can be used for jacketing, trousers, and also suiting which is quite unusual. Are there any pros and cons I should be aware of if I choose the VBC over the Loro Piana Mare jacketing?
No experience with that Mare fabric, but the biggest difference seems to be herringbone or not. Weight is similar - very light. I think the VBC is better for suit separates maybe. But if you don't want to ever make matching trousers for it, maybe the LP herringbone is a better jacketing? I think it comes down to what texture you would prefer and whether you'd make trousers too. Also, LP is probably more expensive
 

macjedi

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I could use some help. I have two DB linen suits about 5 years old, both with white mop buttons that I’d like to switch out for something a little more wearable. For the light blue, I was thinking a mottled Horn like these:
65B951AB-A294-4E1D-B210-4C7451B313B7.jpeg

For the navy, I’m at a loss. I’ve got a navy linen SB suit with smoke mop which I like, but for this I think I want something different. Any thoughts? Thanks so much!

93944C42-2C37-4644-94BA-4EC6B8BDFA81.jpeg
ADDB15C4-4205-4C48-9FA5-3E936D834C70.jpeg
 

macjedi

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In addition to my button dilemma, I’m planning a new SB suit in either a lightweight solaro; or a lightweight tan or khaki cotton.

For the solaro, I was looking at these:
4253F696-7C5D-4014-82EA-3CDB7A7A5C97.jpeg D1503C4A-53FD-46BE-B00B-DCDE913F882E.jpeg
… leaning towards the wool.

If I go with cotton, do you recommend Poplin or twill? Also, what’s a good weight for cotton? I’d like a casual Italian vibe, lightweight (I want to be Yukio Akamine). I have a British tan twill cotton suit, but the fabric is quite heavy 11oz or more, so I’m looking for alternatives. The cotton solaro might be an option as well.

Thanks again!
 

bdavro23

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In addition to my button dilemma, I’m planning a new SB suit in either a lightweight solaro; or a lightweight tan or khaki cotton.

For the solaro, I was looking at these:
View attachment 1144317 View attachment 1144318
… leaning towards the wool.

If I go with cotton, do you recommend Poplin or twill? Also, what’s a good weight for cotton? I’d like a casual Italian vibe, lightweight (I want to be Yukio Akamine). I have a British tan twill cotton suit, but the fabric is quite heavy 11oz or more, so I’m looking for alternatives. The cotton solaro might be an option as well.

Thanks again!
The cotton will break in and age in a possibly interesting way, but can be more difficult to tailor/ alter. The wool will wear cooler. There are other variables of course, but these would be big ones for me. I would also have trouble paying bespoke money for a cotton suit, but thats a personal choice.
 

macjedi

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^this guy knows what he's doing...
Agreed!

The cotton will break in and age in a possibly interesting way, but can be more difficult to tailor/ alter. The wool will wear cooler. There are other variables of course, but these would be big ones for me. I would also have trouble paying bespoke money for a cotton suit, but thats a personal choice.
Thanks for the reply. The suit will be a Kent Wang MTM, so not bespoke money :).
 

macjedi

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Navy MOP for the navy.
Thanks Greg! Navy it is! Also, I have to mention that loved this look so much I've already ordered the tie, square and the shirt gets delivered Monday!

IMG_1275.JPG

Thanks for your help with the buttons. These are what I've found online. What do you think? The last one is the only one I found that referenced navy in the description.


il_1588xN.1633158112_7f6e.jpg
https://www.etsy.com/listing/232818199/deep-blue-luxurious-shell-buttons-set

IMG_1276.JPG
https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/buttons/mother-of-pearl/cobalt-blue-mother-of-pearl-buttons/


s-l1600.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dark-Navy-Mother-Of-Pearl-Buttons-Set-MOP-For-Suit-Blazer-or-Sportcoat-/271559732642?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
 

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