Ed, I think for sportcoats, a royal would be better than a navy. I'm assuming you'll have patch pockets? If so, a more casual royal would be better. As far as classic gunclub, it should have a white (or at least off-white) backing. If you want OG, go for the louder. I prefer the muted one, myself. Brown hopsack is WIN. Go for it. I have a brown 3-patch hopsack that is sadly getting too snug for me. This will be a nice excuse for a new one.