Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[MenWithStyl3]

Thank you for all the replies. I think my real question is: Do you prefer a 65% Wool 35% Kidmohair or a 40% wool 60% Kidmohair blend? Cheers

 

[Mr. Pink]

I have a Smith's 60% mohair and I like it a lot, wears very cool and stays looking crisp, but it also has a definite sheen to it. If you don't mind the sheen, I'd recommend it.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Talking about estate tweeds/district checks I've come across this one, which according to the Johnston's book of scottish estate tweeds is called The Lochmore. It's a classic gunclub with what seems white, tan and olive checks. I couldn't find any source of it. Do you have any info about this particular check? Type of wool yarn? Mill that originally weaved it? All info much appreciated.

 

[9thsymph]

Can anyone speak to how the heavier (12-13oz) 4-ply, high twist and/or mock leno cloths in the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book wear relative to season? Thanks!

 

[cl0udy]

Does anyone know where I can find a full selection of the colours Caccioppoli offers for their pique cotton (for polos)?

I note Caccioppoli lists all their suiting/jacketing and even shirting fabric on their website, but I can’t seem to find the pique cottons. Any help would be appreciated!

not on minero brothers website either, some colours that are available --> http://www.lucavitabile.it/shop-online/?category=Friday+Polo

just had a polo made, there were way more colours in the fabric swatch bunch that I looked at, even brighter ones like orange and a bright purple from memory, hope this was of help.

 

[bsmw]

Can anyone speak to how the heavier (12-13oz) 4-ply, high twist and/or mock leno cloths in the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book wear relative to season? Thanks!

I have a suit made of the 4-ply Finmeresco and I use it during autumn to spring in Hong Kong, wear it between low teen to low twenties degree Celsius.

I also have used it as travel suit to London and New York during cooler days. Below 10 degree Celsius, I would wear an overcoat and long underpants to keep my legs warm.

 

[takashi78]

Hello guys,

Was sent this pic for a possible sports jacket option.
This is to wear casually and sometimes with jeans.
I love in a hot and humid climate.

1- Is this dark green easy to match?
2- Any idea which book this is from? So i can pop by a tailor shop to check it out personally.
3- Anyone has any experience with this cloth done up?

 

[9thsymph]

Hi folks! Two questions:

1) I'd like to commission a hard-wearing, semi casual, winter-weight (12/13oz?) navy odd jacket for pairing with flannels, cords and jeans. This is currently where I have landed: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/navy-twill-jacketing

Any better recommendations? Is the twill too distinctive?

2) What are your top 3 recommendations for summer-weight navy hopsack (also for a sc)?

Thanks!

 

[Bromley]

Hi folks! Two questions:

1) I'd like to commission a hard-wearing, semi casual, winter-weight (12/13oz?) navy odd jacket for pairing with flannels, cords and jeans. This is currently where I have landed: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/navy-twill-jacketing

Any better recommendations? Is the twill too distinctive?

2) What are your top 3 recommendations for summer-weight navy hopsack (also for a sc)?

Thanks!

1) That twill looks nice. The visibility of the weave will be great up close, and likely unnoticeable from across a room. Fox's "Jacketing" bunch has a few other good navies that would meet your criteria, but I don't see them on Fox's website.

2) It's not a hopsack, but I think it effectively does the same thing, and it's one of my favorites: Smith's Mock Leno (from "Finmeresco"). And Caccioppoli always has some good hopsacks in their jacketing bunches.

 

[WillingToLearn]

View attachment 1100563 Hello guys,

Was sent this pic for a possible sports jacket option.
This is to wear casually and sometimes with jeans.
I love in a hot and humid climate.

1- Is this dark green easy to match?
2- Any idea which book this is from? So i can pop by a tailor shop to check it out personally.
3- Anyone has any experience with this cloth done up?

yes, easy to match. i have a dark green sport coat in a summer weight wool/linen/silk, i think from drapers, cacciopolli does a nice blend as well. i dont know what book that particular cloth is from, but there are others out there.

 

[9thsymph]

1) That twill looks nice. The visibility of the weave will be great up close, and likely unnoticeable from across a room. Fox's "Jacketing" bunch has a few other good navies that would meet your criteria, but I don't see them on Fox's website.

2) It's not a hopsack, but I think it effectively does the same thing, and it's one of my favorites: Smith's Mock Leno (from "Finmeresco"). And Caccioppoli always has some good hopsacks in their jacketing bunches.

Thanks for the input! I've actually been considering the Smith's Finmeresco mock leno, but I worry it might be too meshy (transparent) and I already have a navy fresco...

 

[lordsuperb]

Hi folks! Two questions:

1) I'd like to commission a hard-wearing, semi casual, winter-weight (12/13oz?) navy odd jacket for pairing with flannels, cords and jeans. This is currently where I have landed: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/navy-twill-jacketing

Any better recommendations? Is the twill too distinctive?

2) What are your top 3 recommendations for summer-weight navy hopsack (also for a sc)?

Thanks!

Porter and Harding Glenroyal has navy herringbone that can take a beating. I would go with that over the somerset. Somerset was nice but felt too luxurious when I touched it.

 

[Bromley]

Thanks for the input! I've actually been considering the Smith's Finmeresco mock leno, but I worry it might be too meshy (transparent) and I already have a navy fresco...

I've never found it to be transparent when worn, and it's very different from the Minnis Fresco. Have a look at some swatches in person if you can-- it's a cool cloth. Holland & Sherry has something similar now, too. "Mesh Jackets", maybe?

 

[9thsymph]

Porter and Harding Glenroyal has navy herringbone that can take a beating. I would go with that over the somerset. Somerset was nice but felt too luxurious when I touched it.

Hmmm...I was also considering glenroyal, but want something other than a tweed this time around. Could still end up going in that direction, though...Thanks!

 

[bdavro23]

View attachment 1100563 Hello guys,

Was sent this pic for a possible sports jacket option.
This is to wear casually and sometimes with jeans.
I love in a hot and humid climate.

1- Is this dark green easy to match?
2- Any idea which book this is from? So i can pop by a tailor shop to check it out personally.
3- Anyone has any experience with this cloth done up?

I actually have this cloth in a full suit. I ordered it as a jacket, but they had enough cloth so they made the full suit! I think it is a very easy color to wear and pair, and there is a lot of visual interest in the fabric. Sort of mottled with lighter fibers throughout. As far as being appropriate for a hot and humid climate, that depends on you. I run hot, so it doesn't matter. I'm miserable if its sunny and 78...