Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[supern0va]

if it helps your cause in dealing with them to buy more, i'd be in for 2.5m of the olive if the cost is 25 euro / meter

I’m in for a length too if it helps.

 

[thatitalian]

In my search for a first-time custom workhorse fabric, I've come to Dugdale and Huddersfield as less expensive fabrics that should be long-wearing and durable.

Any thoughts on Huddersfield Classic II #760 vs. Dugdale New Fine Worsted 8954?

Are there different collections I should be looking at for classic business suiting by these mills?

I have that exact Dugdale fabric. It is a good option if you're after a 10oz fabric.

It is a good all-rounder when it is not too hot or not too cold (in London anyway), drape fairly well and hold the crease. Unfortunately after two years of solid wear, worn at least once a week, I have just gone through the crotch; dreaded thigh rub. They were unlined from Luxire.

Going forward I would definitely add lining / moisture absorption around the crotch (I know this sounds terrible) to minimise the impact from my thighs rubbing.

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

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This is fantastic. I bought a similar houndstooth fabric about a year ago from fox flannel, only a bit darker.

By the way, may I ask who your tailor is?

 

[aristoi bcn]

This is fantastic. I bought a similar houndstooth fabric about a year ago from fox flannel, only a bit darker.

By the way, may I ask who your tailor is?

Thanks. Tailor is Raffaele Iorio from Naples.

 

[flvinny521]

I have that exact Dugdale fabric. It is a good option if you're after a 10oz fabric.

It is a good all-rounder when it is not too hot or not too cold (in London anyway), drape fairly well and hold the crease. Unfortunately after two years of solid wear, worn at least once a week, I have just gone through the crotch; dreaded thigh rub. They were unlined from Luxire.

Going forward I would definitely add lining / moisture absorption around the crotch (I know this sounds terrible) to minimise the impact from my thighs rubbing.

Thank you for your input. That's a little concerning to me, as I would certainly not be happy if this suit only lasted a couple of years. I do plan to have the pants lined, though, and I'm not going for a very slim fit either. Certainly a question for the tailor.

 

[brax]

if it helps your cause in dealing with them to buy more, i'd be in for 2.5m of the olive if the cost is 25 euro / meter

I’d also purchase a few meters if it helps.
BTW, my Italian tailor says that it’s a difficult coat to get right. If you’re looking for the traditional jacket rather than just a jacket made of the fabric. Depending on which way you are going with this, you may want to talk to your tailor beforehand to be certain that you’re on the same page.

 

[Thomson]

I‘ve got a suit in Classic II and like it a lot. It feels very sturdy to me but it is also heavier than the dugdale. Too heavy for summer.

 

[L.deJong]

I‘ve got a suit in Classic II and like it a lot. It feels very sturdy to me but it is also heavier than the dugdale. Too heavy for summer.

I too have a suit in classic II cloth.
Perfect weight for my climate. (The Netherlands)
Not so much too heavy, but not airy enough for summer. For that I would definitely go with fresco. Something I will get next year.
I haven't worn my classic II suit a lot, but it's not heavy IMHO. Nice workhorse, not a lot of wrinkling when worn a full day and a good all-round fabric.

I also have 5 metres of Dugdale navy fabric (400-ish gram). I cannot recall from which bunch. Feels nice and sturdy but not made up so cannot comment on the quality. (How do you guys order from Dugdale? I cannot make an account because I have no valid reason (company).

 

[kolecho]

I am doing a run of the discontinued Minnis flannel 13oz/400g in mid grey. Their current offering is circa 460g which is a bit too warm for most workplaces. Please PM if you are interested. ETA March/April 2019.

This is one of the garments I had made up in the proposed mid grey Minnis flannel when it was still in production several years ago.

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Here’s another completed garment in said cloth on Instagram made by Sartoria Paone for gazman70k.

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Last call for this discontinued 400g/13oz mid grey Minnis flannel run. Please PM if interested. Thanks.

 

[flvinny521]

I‘ve got a suit in Classic II and like it a lot. It feels very sturdy to me but it is also heavier than the dugdale. Too heavy for summer.

I too have a suit in classic II cloth.
Perfect weight for my climate. (The Netherlands)
Not so much too heavy, but not airy enough for summer. For that I would definitely go with fresco. Something I will get next year.
I haven't worn my classic II suit a lot, but it's not heavy IMHO. Nice workhorse, not a lot of wrinkling when worn a full day and a good all-round fabric.

I also have 5 metres of Dugdale navy fabric (400-ish gram). I cannot recall from which bunch. Feels nice and sturdy but not made up so cannot comment on the quality. (How do you guys order from Dugdale? I cannot make an account because I have no valid reason (company).

Thank you, gentlemen. I think I may hold off on the Classic II until a future order. My climate is very hot and humid, so maybe that will fill a need for a single cold-weather suit option for me down the road. @L.deJong Fresco would be my first choice, probably, except this is my first foray into anything more than "budget" or pre-owned suits so I'm trying to be frugal. Also, I think the prudent thing to do would be to save the more expensive fabrics until I am sure the fit and styling are just how I want them.

By the way, thank you for breaking your vow of silence to assist me!

I can't help but feel I am coming to a point of diminished returns here. A finished suit in these fabrics are a 30+% increase in price over the Holland and Sherry I had chosen initially (and the VBC 110s were even a bit cheaper than that).

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

Thanks. Tailor is Raffaele Iorio from Naples.

Nice. I have heard good things about him.

 

[ericgereghty]

Thank you, gentlemen. I think I may hold off on the Classic II until a future order. My climate is very hot and humid, so maybe that will fill a need for a single cold-weather suit option for me down the road. @L.deJong Fresco would be my first choice, probably, except this is my first foray into anything more than "budget" or pre-owned suits so I'm trying to be frugal. Also, I think the prudent thing to do would be to save the more expensive fabrics until I am sure the fit and styling are just how I want them.

By the way, thank you for breaking your vow of silence to assist me!

I can't help but feel I am coming to a point of diminished returns here. A finished suit in these fabrics are a 30+% increase in price over the Holland and Sherry I had chosen initially (and the VBC 110s were even a bit cheaper than that).

This is via MyTailor? Is the markup for Fresco really that great compared to H&S? I think I would have assumed the opposite.

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

Funded. Finally had time to get these made.

 

[lordsuperb]

Are they both tweed?

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

Are they both tweed?

No, they’re both wool flannel.