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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Distinguished Member

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    To my knowledge, Scabal owns Bower Roebuck, which basically is an in-house mill. Scabal also sells its own clothing. It's vertically integrated the same way that Parmigiani Fleurier is vertically integrated — through a number of wholly owned or majority owned subsidiaries whose production and supply chain it controls.

    While it's not integrated to the level of LP and Zegna, which is common amongst all English mills and merchants, it is the closest.
     

  2. ovlov

    ovlov Senior Member

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    looking for some info on H&S Crystal Springs. I'm thinking of getting a suit done in a wool/silk/linen hopsack from Crystal Springs book. I've looked around and the few pics I can find online make it look like it doesn't have that much of a 'silk sheen' (which is what i'm hoping). None of my local tailors have it in stock though so I can't check it out in person.
    Does anyone have any experience with this can advise on how shiny it is and whether it would make up well for a suit for summer wear to social events and business (I run my own office so don't have anyone to answer to but still need to look presentable enough to see clients and not stand out too much)
     

  3. jdp234

    jdp234 Senior Member

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    It’s a jacketing book doubt it makes well as a suit.
     

  4. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

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    Dear @BernieL,

    So, you are saying that you are contemplating the idea of commissioning an SC for the Sping-Summer season in the Bay Area with the use of a mid-weight jacketing fabric from the LP "Pecora Nera" Fall-Winter line!

    Since, as you have written, you plan to do it sometime in mid-2019, I would strongly suggest you to check - way before this period - in approx. coming February where the Spring-Summer offerings are launched. Then, perhaps you would be able to see if LP (as I wrote in my previous post) continues the "Pecora Nera" for this season as well, or it is planned to be a Fall-Winter line only. Certainly, you would have further options as well.

    The only point of caution (and unfortunately I don't have this piece of information) is the extent of the production of this line, being "exclusive" as a fellow member wrote above. What I do know, is that it would not be discontinued as the LP "Proposte" or the Zegna "Anteprima" is, every season; to the contrary, it would function like a regular bunch and one could order fabrics from it year round.

    Finally, and since I just mention it, it is worthwhile to take a look at the current Fall-Winter Zegna "Anteprima" where you can find interesting winter-weight SC propositions in the successful, and thus repeated, "Oasi Cashmere" line. I have read that you are OK with the Fall-Winter, yet if you have access to it, do take a look, there are two neutral colors that match your taste. Needless to add, that there is no comparison to the brands that you cited.

    Best,

    Dimitris
     

  5. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    I've only had one bolt of Crystal Springs, but it still had some of that characteristic silk shen. As @jdp234 said, it's also a jacketing book - I don't know specifically what swatch number you are looking at but I can't see it working that well as a suit. Both because the weave tension may be unsuitable for trousers, and because between sheen and pattern it might be too showy.
     

  6. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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  7. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    Anyone know which are the major italian mills making corduroy?
     

  8. Staxxx1

    Staxxx1 Senior Member

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    I just picked up some great corduroy from Robert Smitihies at Brisbane Moss at a very reasonable price. Not Italian but very good.
     

  9. BernieL

    BernieL Member

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    @ovlov Hi, here's a chocolate Crystal Springs SC on The Anthology page on Instagram:
    upload_2018-11-8_22-9-36.png

    As Simon mentioned, it definitely has that certain silky look to it.

    @Bespoke DJP Thank you, Sir! I did not realize the currently released Pecora Nera was a winter collection. I thought the heavier fabrics in the first half were for winter and the following light weight selections were for Spring and Summer. I will definitely wait to see the Spring realise and then make my decision. Wonderful recommendation regarding Zegna's Anteprima line by the way. I liked the understated aesthetic and it has some of the more muted tones I am looking for. Also saw a shade of oatmeal cashmere very similar to Simon's Loro Piana oatmeal cashmere Elia Caliendo sports coat. Lovely.

    @lordsuperb I took a look at it since it comes highly recommended by Chris D. Definitely perfect for San Francisco weather but I am further down south, with most of the year being up in the high 70s and low 80s. One or two caught my eye, including the infamous dark navy one that Chris likes.
     

  10. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    Ta for that. In general with Brexit I will have extra difficulty (incl Forex volatility) doing business with UK makers and will need to get other sources on the continent. Any pointers would be much appreciated.
     

  11. BernieL

    BernieL Member

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    Can anyone identify the specific fabric #/bunch from dugdales?

    upload_2018-11-10_22-15-16.png

    Very pleasing to the eye.
     

  12. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    Ask him, or ask a tailor. Seems pretty standard, tbh.
     

  13. Bromley

    Bromley Well-Known Member

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    Most likely from English & Town Classics.
     

  14. thatitalian

    thatitalian Senior Member

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    I’ve been reading through this thread at length but there seems to be a varying opinion on 13oz plain cloths.

    I’ve been looking at samples from S&W (Botany) and H. Lesser in both twills and sharkskins. The Lesser feels a little nicer but I know looks (read that as feels ;-) ) can be deceiving.

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a classic 13oz dark grey and dark navy cloth?
     

  15. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Lesser 13 is still pretty standard, although there are those who will say it is not as good as 10 years ago.

    If you join the London Lounge, they are getting a subscription together for mid grey and navy pindot in that weight. This week-- so hurry. More expensive than the Lesser, but likely to be very fine.
     

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