1. Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Puchases through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,755
    Likes Received:
    13,684
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
    Beat me too it.

    OP seems pretty set on the LP, but I'd note that H&S and HFW both have several bunches of lightweight fabrics that are all wool or blends, and that from what I've seen, many of the blends aren't more overtly visually textured than hopsack. I don't know the Bay Area real estate business, but as a Bay Area lawyer who wears textured jackets in some client-facing circumstances, I have a hard time believe that it's so conservative as to preclude a little texture.

    It seems to me like even the HFW Bamboo book would be worth a look.
     

  2. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,163
    Likes Received:
    7,746
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Personal preference, of course, but I want to wear, for example, my ivory dinner jacket and I'm not about to let fear of something happening to it prevent me from doing so.
     

  3. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,163
    Likes Received:
    7,746
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Again, just my personal preference. I tried hopsack and didn't like it. It's not a texture thing, it's a hopsack thing.
     

  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,755
    Likes Received:
    13,684
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
    That wasn't targeted at you at all! I suspect everyone here has something like that that they don't like but that others don't think about one way or the other. I just still enjoy the idea of sanitation workers wearing navy hopsack. The rest of that was for BernieL because I'm struggling to see how hopsack is an acceptable level of visual texture but a typical blend isn't
     

  5. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    6,611
    Likes Received:
    552
    Joined:
    May 7, 2006
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    You'd probably only get to wear it for a few weeks around/ after Chinese New year
     

  6. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,879
    Likes Received:
    2,977
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    I got suckered into that LL mistral hopsack nonsense. My least favorite garment. I will say hopsack has its place for a rustic summer look.
     

  7. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior Member

    Messages:
    507
    Likes Received:
    218
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona
    Taking advantage that you are all over here: Any ideas of navy serge jacketing for winter use in the old-fashioned way? I already know Fox has/had one but apart from that there are alternatives? I want a jacketing cloth not to be confused with suiting...

    I already have navy and blue versions of Mock Leno for summer (not technically hopsack but I'm very happy with them).
     

  8. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,163
    Likes Received:
    7,746
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    I've never subscribed to Mistral precisely because it's a hopsack.
     

  9. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,268
    Likes Received:
    2,451
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    @lordsuperb why no love for Mistral, save the cost?
    @aristoi bcn post some pictures of the mockleno. I love mine that I have as a RTW. Debating having the light navy made up for a jacket.
     

  10. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,879
    Likes Received:
    2,977
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    The scale of the hopsack is too rustic for a suit. It took me a few wears to realize what film noir was talking about when it came to hopsack suits.
     

  11. Knox

    Knox Senior Member

    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    22
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2006
    Location:
    USA
    A timely and helpful post.

    I too have been searching for an old fashioned navy serge--a bold serge that calls to mind a steep twill, but not a Cavalry Twill or whipcord. Great for a winter blazer.

    All of the Fox serges (I know of) are much more appropriate for suitings.

    This is one among the difficult-to-find cloths.

    Anybody have any leads or suggestions?
     

  12. kolecho

    kolecho Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,386
    Likes Received:
    411
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    I've shown Mistral to a number of tailors and they suggested using it only for a jacket. Too loose for pants, unless you're a smallish guy. It also hangs a lot longer than other worsteds. It measures longer when worn than on the bench.
     

  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,879
    Likes Received:
    2,977
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    I didn’t know any better back then but way to rub it in!!! I know what works for me these days; Birdseye and Pindot.
     

  14. kolecho

    kolecho Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,386
    Likes Received:
    411
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    Harrisons Oyster has some great birdeyes. My favourite 13oz/400g worsted suiting bunch.
     

  15. BernieL

    BernieL Member

    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2018
    @reidd Don't like how linen crumples and the texture takes some getting used to, thanks for the suggestion though!
    @Mr. Six I don't like the slubbiness of silk blends and the wrinkling of linen blends, so I'm steering clear of blends.

    I would say I greatly admire the Saman Amel & Stoffa Aesthetic. Modern, muted tones that are complementary (a lot of grey & earth tones). LP Pecora Nera is perfect in that regard. Solids, herringbones, glen checks, and hounds tooths are right up my alley. Window panes and multiple colorways feel too loud compared to the muted tones I am looking for.

    Here are some great examples:
    upload_2018-11-7_17-3-48.png
    upload_2018-11-7_17-15-1.png

    upload_2018-11-7_17-6-16.png
    upload_2018-11-7_17-12-52.png
    upload_2018-11-7_17-16-52.png

    I don't need help with Fall/Winter jacketings - I'd be looking at cashmere and all the different types of tweeds, and shetland tweed in particular (sherrytweed, abraham moon, W Bill, and etc). To me, finding the right Spring/Summer fabric is harder. I'll probably commission a Pecora Nera SC from WWChan sometime mid 2019 and will post the results here.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.