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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Oh, please. Life is much too short to worry about stuff like that. That's what cleaners and "wine-away" are for. Plus I've never quite gotten my head around why it's apparently okay to have red wine spilled on, say, a black dinner jacket. It's still stained.
     

  2. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Personally, if my realtor showed up wearing hopsack, I'd find another realtor.
     

  3. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    There are no warm Spring/Summer days in San Francisco, but the rest of the Bay Area, possibly. My moonbeam jacket is a candidate for wear on all but the very hottest days in July-September.
     

  4. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

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    Personally I would probably go for something in linen for a third jacket (probably a shade of brown) since tweed covers the colder months although I’m on the east coast so have to endure quite a bit of heat in the summer.
     

  5. DavidLane

    DavidLane Distinguished Member

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    I am thinking of adding a pair of blue corduroy trousers. Do any of you prefer navy over mid blue? I know it depends on the blue itself, however I am not used to using blue for trousers, and it seems like I am construction an outfit rather than adding a piece to my wardrobe. I plan on pairing them with a charcoal Harris Tweed SC, an off white shirt, black tassels and black wool knit tie for starters. Thoughts, experiences and ideas welcomed.

    Images from Brisbane Moss:
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    Capture.PNG
    TIA,
    DL-
     

  6. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    Haha, sanitation worker!!!
     

  7. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    Whats wrong with Hopsack?
     

  8. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    I only wear blue odd trousers in non-wool or textured fabrics. This is obviously a personal thing, but cotton, linen, denim, corduroy, etc typically starts with more texture than wool and then ages, which creates more character/ visual interest. To me, wool odd trousers feel like I'm wearing suit pants with a different jacket.

    Obviously there are exceptions to the wool rule, but the above has served me pretty well. That's a really long way of saying that with corduroy, I think you can do a variety of shades of blue without worry.
     

  9. hyho

    hyho Member

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    Anyone in Hong Kong here? What's your thought of wearing an overcoat in the winter? Any good fabric you recommend getting it in? Thinking of getting something made before Christmas.
     

  10. BernieL

    BernieL Member

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    @Andy57 Hi Andy, thank you for your help. I'm based in Palo Alto so Silicon Valley dress code applies (many of my tech clients wear shorts). I know that San Francisco and Los Angeles are a different ballgame in terms of dress code.

    I am new to bespoke and am not familiar with the three options you recommended - are they more expensive than Loro Piana? Just for reference, a Pecora Nera SC from WWChan is around $2,300, which is where my budget is for a SC. However, I think you have a good read on what I am looking for as I want something soft, yet lightweight in muted and simple tones. I do like Crispaire but that is only because it isn't scratchy like Minnis Fresco. Pecora Nera has a modern aesthetic which I like and reminds me of Stoffa and Saman Amel.

    For your three options, are there websites you can direct me to so I can comb through the collections?

    Thanks again, Andy!
     

  11. BernieL

    BernieL Member

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    @aristoi Thanks for your recommendations! I already looked at the LP jacketing collections and just combed through Dormeuil. The Dormeuil fabrics definitely seem nice - soft but w/ good drape, however, the fabrics seem to be more of a good fit later down the road of my bespoke journey. Probably SC #6 or 7.
     

  12. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Petrol, if you can find it. Does that count as Dark Blue on this card? A hair toward slate would be even nicer.
     

  13. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    That equation depends on many jackets/life you've got. Personally I've slaved away in my garret so long I'd burst into a bigger flood of tears than Daisy over Gatsby's shirts.

    Plausible deniability?
     

  14. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    It's rather rustic, in my opinion. Or just not very refined. I'm well aware that StyFo orthodoxy is that hopsack is great, but it hews too close to the burlap end of the spectrum for my taste. You may feel differently, and that's perfectly fine.
     

  15. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Standeven Escorial
    Joshua Ellis

    There are other sources, but I'm sure you can use Google just as well as I can. As for cost, you should ask your tailor, presumably WW Chan, for a quote for Loro Piana and then for an Escorial cloth. Escorial is a premium fabricant and is more expensive than many other cloths, but you get what you pay for.

    I've used Loro Piano quite successfully, but mainly for summer weight fabrics. I have two jackets made up from they "Summertime" silk and linen blend bunch and a suit made up from their wool & silk blend seersucker. Both cloths work really well in the Bay Area spring/summer seasons.
     

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