1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Todd Shelton We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Todd Shelton which focuses on basic pieces customized to fit your body and your tastes.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,196
    Likes Received:
    784
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Yes-- a cool tweed. E.g., tan with blue/grey checks or highlights would be good.

    Or a real midnight blazer (not too much blue in it).
     

  2. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior Member

    Messages:
    486
    Likes Received:
    197
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona

  3. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,179
    Likes Received:
    7,803
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    Ok, think I have narrowed down my picks for my next suit to the following choices. This will be used as a suit I can ideally wear inside and outside the office (not strict CBD). Will be used as a 2 or 3 season suit, 2 or possibly 3 piece, to complement a decent wardrobe of standard navy and grey suits.

    Appreciate any thoughts:

    A and B are 9.5oz Loro Piana
    C is 13oz or so Drapers wool (apparently breaths and drapes well)

    416A02B9-E98F-4F6F-AB63-0E76BE6DCB94.jpeg

    13oz from HFW
    5C482E23-CBEC-4563-A649-64187598B31B.jpeg

    Or something from Holland and Sherry:

    428972A0-7E08-4ACC-9494-9441CC23FD67.jpeg

    9505DB7F-9D2B-49C7-A524-89B3B862A80C.jpeg

    1253F959-3718-4568-B939-86A8B27B3D8D.jpeg

    6A41FF65-DB63-4E04-88F9-700359EB6413.jpeg

    354C97EE-AA3E-462B-BEDC-CB9F685F1582.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018

  4. supern0va

    supern0va Senior Member

    Messages:
    431
    Likes Received:
    866
    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2015

  5. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,790
    Likes Received:
    493
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2007
    Location:
    London, England
    @sebastian mcfox - I've a fondness for Dugdale and see them as probably the best value for money, but even putting that to one side it looks a good choice - you can see the open weave in the photo, and there seems a good degree of variegation in the colour. What book is that from?

    The HFW looks interesting too, but I'd want to know more about how breathable it is.
     

  6. Alocin

    Alocin Senior Member

    Messages:
    259
    Likes Received:
    968
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2015
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA

    I have yet to confirm it but I am nearly positive the Partenopea suit I mentioned before is of the Loro Piana "A" fabric, if not, that it is nearly an exact representation of it. I really love the color and it is a favorite suit of mine for all seasons, barring a few things I need to fix.
     

  7. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2015
    Dear @supern0va,

    Well, there is no question why the Caccioppoli fabric that you are seeking is sold out, it is a very interesting wool-silk-linen plaid; it is actually a Loro Piana fabric from the same period in its Proposte line.

    The two fabrics that @aristoi bcn suggested, although not quite close to what you are looking for, are both spring-summer propositions: the Shang is a wool-silk at 210gr, while the Cross Ply is a wool-silk-linen at 190gr; IMHO both are overpriced for different reasons I suppose.

    If you could go for a 250gr wool fabric, the current Loro Piana jackets bunch has a brown plaid with a blue overcheck (exactly the same color combination as the one that you are seeking) which I could call similar, albeit the composition.

    Best,

    Dimitris
     

  8. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,179
    Likes Received:
    7,803
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    Just fixed it - it’s Drapers not Dugdale.

    The HFW is a great shade, but apparently has little texture and doesn’t breathe
     

  9. classicalthunde

    classicalthunde Senior Member

    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Philly
    Can anyone point me to a primer for a first timer interested in purchasing fabric for a CMT jack/suit? I'm particularly interested in:
    • How to figure out which mills produce quality/good value fabric (should I just stick with the historical names I know?)
    • what are the typical weight recommendations for summer,winter, or 3 season suits? What happens when you go above/below the recommended weight?
    • Aside from aesthetics what is the formality/function difference between different fabric types (i.e. twill, fresco, herringbone, etc)
    • Where are some reputable places to get fabric?
     

  10. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,196
    Likes Received:
    784
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Going below the recommended weight means you are more likely to need an overcoat (in the winter), or that it will need cleaning and pressing more often than necessary. It also means that it will probably be harder to tailor really well.

    Too heavy means-- well, too heavy. It won't breathe as well in warm temperatures, which could be a problem if you or your rooms run warm.

    Recommendations depend on your tailor, your blood pressure, your willingness to replace suits that are worn out, etc. But suits in worsted wool for a hot summer are around 8-9oz, usually. Much of a British summer can be covered by 10oz very nicely, or heavier. Winter weight these days tends to start at 12-13oz and go on up to 16oz or above. The Smith Botany and Lesser 13oz are real classics there, but some other books (Oyster at 13, and other heavier ones) can fill the bill.

    In-between weights are tough. The question there is if you can tolerate a summer plain weave with a bit more body so it holds up better when travelling, or if you want a winter pattern that is deceptively light. These days, shoulder season is so short that you might do without unless you want something that can go three seasons and just get a topcoat to compensate for the coldest days. Harrisons Frontier (10oz) is good stuff, and while not everyone likes or needs the luxury, Lesser 120s 9.5-10oz (with a hint of cashmere) covers dinner parties and evening concerts well.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018

  11. classicalthunde

    classicalthunde Senior Member

    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Philly
    awesome, thanks so much! this is the type of info i was looking for...do you have any insight on twill vs herringbone vs sharkskin etc? I typically wear slacks and a sport coat for work, but have to wear a suit 3-4 times a month for important meetings/presentations
     

  12. buddyfuzz

    buddyfuzz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    71
    Likes Received:
    38
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    Does anyone have any experience with either the Loro Piana Wool & Cashmere Flannels book, or the Zegna Trofeo Winter Jackets book?

    They're all around 310/320g. I believe the Zegna cloths also have a bit of silk in the mix (as well as wool with a little cashmere).

    I'm looking for a lightweight jacketing for F/W with a very soft handle. I understand there may be a slight compromise on durability relative to heavier English flannels, but there's something about that 'luxury' feel I have found with LP cloths. No real experience with Zegna though.
     

  13. Winot

    Winot Senior Member

    Messages:
    550
    Likes Received:
    427
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2006
    Location:
    London
    Have a look here:
    https://www.permanentstyle.com/the-guide-to-cloth/
     

  14. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2015
    Dear @buddyfuzz,

    I believe that I can be of some assistance concerning the Zegna alternative.

    First of all, the Winter Trofeo Jackets book is actually called Trofeo Cashmere and as the title eloquently indicates the composition of the cloth is wool & cashmere; no silk in the mix! To be more precise, the composition is: Wool 95% - Cashmere 5% at 290grams.

    There are two "lines", one is with plaid propositions, the other with a subtle herringbone which is my favorite. For whatever it worths, I have bought the green herringbone, a rather dark emerald one like the one NMWA used to have, made by Sartoria Formosa, although the Zegna fabric is a higher-end one.

    This book is not a new one, I do know that some color codes are sold out, but I don't know if they are going to be discontinued, replenished, or replaced by other ones; you should consult your tailor or your fabric merchant on availability issues!

    Finally, although still unfunded, the hand of the cloth is fantastic, its color is a really warm, vivid one, and I strongly believe that it will make a very nice and interesting sport coat.

    Best,

    Dimitris
     

  15. tobehknese

    tobehknese Senior Member

    Messages:
    313
    Likes Received:
    228
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2011
    #randomthought is there a market for a e-tailer of all mills and merchants for b2b and b2c customers?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.