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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

aristoi bcn

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sebastian mcfox

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Ok, think I have narrowed down my picks for my next suit to the following choices. This will be used as a suit I can ideally wear inside and outside the office (not strict CBD). Will be used as a 2 or 3 season suit, 2 or possibly 3 piece, to complement a decent wardrobe of standard navy and grey suits.

Appreciate any thoughts:

A and B are 9.5oz Loro Piana
C is 13oz or so Drapers wool (apparently breaths and drapes well)

416A02B9-E98F-4F6F-AB63-0E76BE6DCB94.jpeg


13oz from HFW
5C482E23-CBEC-4563-A649-64187598B31B.jpeg


Or something from Holland and Sherry:

428972A0-7E08-4ACC-9494-9441CC23FD67.jpeg


9505DB7F-9D2B-49C7-A524-89B3B862A80C.jpeg


1253F959-3718-4568-B939-86A8B27B3D8D.jpeg


6A41FF65-DB63-4E04-88F9-700359EB6413.jpeg


354C97EE-AA3E-462B-BEDC-CB9F685F1582.jpeg
 
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SimonC

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@sebastian mcfox - I've a fondness for Dugdale and see them as probably the best value for money, but even putting that to one side it looks a good choice - you can see the open weave in the photo, and there seems a good degree of variegation in the colour. What book is that from?

The HFW looks interesting too, but I'd want to know more about how breathable it is.
 

Alocin

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Ok, think I have narrowed down my picks for my next suit to the following choices. This will be used as a suit I can ideally wear inside and outside the office (not strict CBD). Will be used as a 2 or 3 season suit, 2 or possibly 3 piece, to complement a decent wardrobe of standard navy and grey suits.

Appreciate any thoughts:

A and B are 9.5oz Loro Piana
C is 13oz or so Dugdale wool (apparently breaths and drapes well)

View attachment 1002509

13oz from HFW
View attachment 1002510

Or something from Holland and Sherry:

View attachment 1002511

View attachment 1002512

View attachment 1002513

View attachment 1002514

View attachment 1002515

I have yet to confirm it but I am nearly positive the Partenopea suit I mentioned before is of the Loro Piana "A" fabric, if not, that it is nearly an exact representation of it. I really love the color and it is a favorite suit of mine for all seasons, barring a few things I need to fix.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @supern0va,

Well, there is no question why the Caccioppoli fabric that you are seeking is sold out, it is a very interesting wool-silk-linen plaid; it is actually a Loro Piana fabric from the same period in its Proposte line.

The two fabrics that @aristoi bcn suggested, although not quite close to what you are looking for, are both spring-summer propositions: the Shang is a wool-silk at 210gr, while the Cross Ply is a wool-silk-linen at 190gr; IMHO both are overpriced for different reasons I suppose.

If you could go for a 250gr wool fabric, the current Loro Piana jackets bunch has a brown plaid with a blue overcheck (exactly the same color combination as the one that you are seeking) which I could call similar, albeit the composition.

Best,

Dimitris
 

sebastian mcfox

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@sebastian mcfox - I've a fondness for Dugdale and see them as probably the best value for money, but even putting that to one side it looks a good choice - you can see the open weave in the photo, and there seems a good degree of variegation in the colour. What book is that from?

The HFW looks interesting too, but I'd want to know more about how breathable it is.
Just fixed it - it’s Drapers not Dugdale.

The HFW is a great shade, but apparently has little texture and doesn’t breathe
 

classicalthunde

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Can anyone point me to a primer for a first timer interested in purchasing fabric for a CMT jack/suit? I'm particularly interested in:
  • How to figure out which mills produce quality/good value fabric (should I just stick with the historical names I know?)
  • what are the typical weight recommendations for summer,winter, or 3 season suits? What happens when you go above/below the recommended weight?
  • Aside from aesthetics what is the formality/function difference between different fabric types (i.e. twill, fresco, herringbone, etc)
  • Where are some reputable places to get fabric?
 

Concordia

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Going below the recommended weight means you are more likely to need an overcoat (in the winter), or that it will need cleaning and pressing more often than necessary. It also means that it will probably be harder to tailor really well.

Too heavy means-- well, too heavy. It won't breathe as well in warm temperatures, which could be a problem if you or your rooms run warm.

Recommendations depend on your tailor, your blood pressure, your willingness to replace suits that are worn out, etc. But suits in worsted wool for a hot summer are around 8-9oz, usually. Much of a British summer can be covered by 10oz very nicely, or heavier. Winter weight these days tends to start at 12-13oz and go on up to 16oz or above. The Smith Botany and Lesser 13oz are real classics there, but some other books (Oyster at 13, and other heavier ones) can fill the bill.

In-between weights are tough. The question there is if you can tolerate a summer plain weave with a bit more body so it holds up better when travelling, or if you want a winter pattern that is deceptively light. These days, shoulder season is so short that you might do without unless you want something that can go three seasons and just get a topcoat to compensate for the coldest days. Harrisons Frontier (10oz) is good stuff, and while not everyone likes or needs the luxury, Lesser 120s 9.5-10oz (with a hint of cashmere) covers dinner parties and evening concerts well.
 
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classicalthunde

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Going below the recommended weight means you are more likely to need an overcoat (in the winter), or that it will need cleaning and pressing more often than necessary. It also means that it will probably be harder to tailor really well.

Too heavy means-- well, too heavy. It won't breathe as well in warm temperatures, which could be a problem if you or your rooms run warm.

Recommendations depend on your tailor, your blood pressure, your willingness to replace suits that are worn out, etc. But suits in worsted wool for a hot summer are around 8-9oz, usually. Much of a British summer can be covered by 10oz very nicely, or heavier. Winter weight these days tends to start at 12-13oz and go on up to 16oz or above. The Smith Botany and Lesser 13oz are real classics there, but some other books (Oyster at 13, and other heavier ones) can fill the bill.

In-between weights are tough. The question there is if you can tolerate a summer plain weave with a bit more body so it holds up better when travelling, or if you want a winter pattern that is deceptively light. These days, shoulder season is so short that you might do without unless you want something that can go three seasons and just get a topcoat to compensate for the coldest days. Harrisons Frontier (10oz) is good stuff, and while not everyone likes or needs the luxury, Lesser 120s 9.5-10oz (with a hint of cashmere) covers dinner parties and evening concerts well.
awesome, thanks so much! this is the type of info i was looking for...do you have any insight on twill vs herringbone vs sharkskin etc? I typically wear slacks and a sport coat for work, but have to wear a suit 3-4 times a month for important meetings/presentations
 

buddyfuzz

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Does anyone have any experience with either the Loro Piana Wool & Cashmere Flannels book, or the Zegna Trofeo Winter Jackets book?

They're all around 310/320g. I believe the Zegna cloths also have a bit of silk in the mix (as well as wool with a little cashmere).

I'm looking for a lightweight jacketing for F/W with a very soft handle. I understand there may be a slight compromise on durability relative to heavier English flannels, but there's something about that 'luxury' feel I have found with LP cloths. No real experience with Zegna though.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Does anyone have any experience with either the Loro Piana Wool & Cashmere Flannels book, or the Zegna Trofeo Winter Jackets book?

They're all around 310/320g. I believe the Zegna cloths also have a bit of silk in the mix (as well as wool with a little cashmere).

I'm looking for a lightweight jacketing for F/W with a very soft handle. I understand there may be a slight compromise on durability relative to heavier English flannels, but there's something about that 'luxury' feel I have found with LP cloths. No real experience with Zegna though.
Dear @buddyfuzz,

I believe that I can be of some assistance concerning the Zegna alternative.

First of all, the Winter Trofeo Jackets book is actually called Trofeo Cashmere and as the title eloquently indicates the composition of the cloth is wool & cashmere; no silk in the mix! To be more precise, the composition is: Wool 95% - Cashmere 5% at 290grams.

There are two "lines", one is with plaid propositions, the other with a subtle herringbone which is my favorite. For whatever it worths, I have bought the green herringbone, a rather dark emerald one like the one NMWA used to have, made by Sartoria Formosa, although the Zegna fabric is a higher-end one.

This book is not a new one, I do know that some color codes are sold out, but I don't know if they are going to be discontinued, replenished, or replaced by other ones; you should consult your tailor or your fabric merchant on availability issues!

Finally, although still unfunded, the hand of the cloth is fantastic, its color is a really warm, vivid one, and I strongly believe that it will make a very nice and interesting sport coat.

Best,

Dimitris
 

tobehknese

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#randomthought is there a market for a e-tailer of all mills and merchants for b2b and b2c customers?
 

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