Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sammm]

The navy is fine, but you would be hard pressed to distinguish it from a matte worsted from a distance. The char-navy is easily recognizable. Personally, I also like this colour more for a suit.

Thanks for your reply. I had already found your char-navy actually, snooping around. Looks good. I do wish the cloth was more blue/navy, more saturated. Do you find that the char-navy ever comes across as straight charcoal to people?

 

[zr3rs]

Thanks for your reply. I had already found your char-navy actually, snooping around. Looks good. I do wish the cloth was more blue/navy, more saturated. Do you find that the char-navy ever comes across as straight charcoal to people?

The char navy is more charcoal and does not look navy in low light...

 

[hyho]

The char navy is more charcoal and does not look navy in low light...

What is the cloth number for that color. Looks like I should get that for my next winter suit

 

[Sammm]

What is the cloth number for that color. Looks like I should get that for my next winter suit

This one: http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/1371/flannel/370g-char-navy-fox-flannel

 

[smittycl]

I picked up 4m of their flannel at the recent summer sale. Looking to make a Fall-Winter three-piece. I wanted a lighter flanel as winters here in DC are getting warmer and warmer each year.

http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/1094/vintage-bolts/300g-mid-grey-flannel-windowpane

 

[jonathanS]

I’m commissioning a suit and I find it hard to choose between Fox’s Classic Navy and their Char-Navy. A bit torn between the subtle softness of unheathered navy, and the immediate surface interest of the heathered char navy. I find it surprisingly difficult to find any photos of plain navy flannel suits online – plenty of pinstripe/gray/etc., but hardly any solid navy.

Does anyone have any photos and/or thoughts to share?

(I wish there were more heathered/mottled navy flannels, without turning to navy charcoal. http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/navy-blue-flannel-suit-11-oz-wool.html looks great but I don’t know if Drapers still carries that cloth, can’t find it...)

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Why not a dark blue flannel? If you’re not happy with navy but want something different try dark blue (lighter than navy). I had a gray / navy suit & was never happy with the color. It’s not useful to break down in a pinch. For example the jacket can’t be easily worn with gray trousers.

 

[jonathanS]

https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/DORMEUIL-...790871?hash=item4b29db6357:g:3qIAAOSwVohZ4L5N This was the fabric I got. I had a specific one in mind so was willing to take the risk and it worked out really well but I wouldn’t necessarily do it twice unless it’s an unusual fabric...

Did you use that for a suit or tuxedo? I have a hard time seeing that as a tuxedo but maybe it looks better in person.

 

[The Chai]

Did you use that for a suit or tuxedo? I have a hard time seeing that as a tuxedo but maybe it looks better in person.

I used it for a suit (sbpl so it does look like a tuxedo) but it’s more a really dark blue than navy. Like it looks distinguishable blue. I did get more extra cloth because I really liked how it was unique...herringbone and mohair....not a common design....so might get a dinner jacket made down the pipeline

 

[Sammm]

Why not a dark blue flannel? If you’re not happy with navy but want something different try dark blue (lighter than navy). I had a gray / navy suit & was never happy with the color. It’s not useful to break down in a pinch. For example the jacket can’t be easily worn with gray trousers.

Thanks for sharing your experience – I do worry a bit that the char navy might be a bit neither fish nor fowl. I do like Fox’s navy and the lighter French navy, I just wish they were mottled/heathered to really showcase flannel’s richness.

Well, all options have their pros and cons I suppose, and I’m sure it’ll turn out nice in the end.

 

[hyho]

Should the fox navy flannel be used for a SC or is it more suiting material?

 

[Concordia]

This is Fox char-navy


The navy is fine, but you would be hard pressed to distinguish it from a matte worsted from a distance. The char-navy is easily recognizable. Personally, I also like this colour more for a suit.

I have RTW trousers in a mottled blue from VBC, so this might be available via Drapers.

Almost an RAF blue. You could use the trousers separately under a tweed or blazer.

 

[jonathanS]

I used it for a suit (sbpl so it does look like a tuxedo) but it’s more a really dark blue than navy. Like it looks distinguishable blue. I did get more extra cloth because I really liked how it was unique...herringbone and mohair....not a common design....so might get a dinner jacket made down the pipeline

My thing with bespoke is I’m not going to get anything I don’t really want. So that fabric isn’t for me.

Almost an RAF blue. You could use the trousers separately under a tweed or blazer.

I’d have to see it but I don’t think it looks good under a navy blazer. I have a navy donegal sports jacket that looks navy until you put on gray flannels & it looks too close. Unfortunate.

Should the fox navy flannel be used for a SC or is it more suiting material?

Both. If solid I’d go for a suit, maybe extra pair of trousers. Patterned is obviously a preference thing.

 

[supern0va]

Anyone knows where I can get something similar to this. It is a wool-silk-linen from caccioppoli’s SS2017 jacketing bunch. Unfortunately it’s sold out.

 

[zr3rs]

[QUOTE="jonathanS, post: 9393630, member: 202489"
I’d have to see it but I don’t think it looks good under a navy blazer. I have a navy donegal sports jacket that looks navy until you put on gray flannels & it looks too close. Unfortunate.
[/QUOTE]

Not with navy, but it works well with brown/gray tweeds.

 

[Concordia]

Yes-- a cool tweed. E.g., tan with blue/grey checks or highlights would be good.

Or a real midnight blazer (not too much blue in it).