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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. FlyingHorker

    FlyingHorker Senior Member

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    Background info: I dress casually, very rarely wearing a suit or sports coat, just don't have any occasions to wear them. Usually wear chinos for pants.

    So I'm in the middle of getting a safari jacket made in a light-navy linen, unlined, with a bunch of bells and whistles. Theoretically, it should be very versatile and useful for my wardrobe.

    If that works out and my budget allows it, thinking about getting another shirt jacket made in a nicer fabric. Something that I can comfortably wear inside, like a looser, slouchier version of a sports coat, but won't look out of place in today's casual world.

    This is the closest OTR thing I've found that fits the bill, but it's not in my size.

    [​IMG]


    I currently dig the triple patch pocket look above, and might do a half-belt on the back with inverted box pleat.

    https://luxire.com/products/dugdale-royal-classic-traditional-prince-of-wales-with-maroon-overcheck

    That is one fabric I found. I am not sure if Luxire sells the fabric straight to consumer though.

    So any ideas on what type of cloth to use, and possible styling? Where to buy a particular cloth as well?

    @Andy57
    @dieworkwear
    @stubloom
    @Shirtmaven
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018 at 7:46 PM


  2. heldentenor

    heldentenor Distinguished Member

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    Have you looked at tebas (Spanish shirt-jackets initially made for hunting)? Lots of places stock them in the kind of rustic fabrics you have in mind. Might be just the trick.
     


  3. FlyingHorker

    FlyingHorker Senior Member

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    I completely forgot about Tebas, thank you for reminding me.

    After reading your post, I did find some on Epaulet in my size that look quite nice, and are even marked down. I'm not sure if the plain fabrics are doing it for me at the moment, but I'll keep an eye on them.

    Any other websites you know of?

    https://www.beige-habilleur.com/en/...t-brownolive.html?search_query=teba&results=3

    That was another one I found, but it's not in my size either, and the cut/details look off to me. Also too expensive for me. I'd get slapped with 40% duties/tax due to being in Canada. At that price tag I could go to my local tailor to make me up a jacket in a cloth of my choice.
     


  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    The nice thing about the Justo Gimeno one is that it's lightly padded in the shoulders and fused in the chest. Helps give the garment shape. I don't know if other Tebas are made like that.
     


  5. FlyingHorker

    FlyingHorker Senior Member

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    I found the Armoury, and they carry examples that I would wear, but it's also at double the price from the other post. That compounds the 40% duty/tax issue as well considering it's made in Spain, not the USA.

    Basically that jacket would run me $1200 CAD total, and that is too steep for me.

    Know of any other stockists for Justo Gimeno Teba jackets?
     


  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    I don't.

    There may be other companies doing this style with padding. Bel y Cia is another famous maker and I believe they fuse the chest (don't know how they do the shoulders). I don't know how Epaulet constructs theirs, but the team there is very friendly and responsive to emails.

    Tebas are an odd style though. They're sort of like a sport coat, but not really. They don't have the same silhouette or shaping. The lapels are also going to look strange to many people. I think the style works better on some people than others, but it's hard to know unless you try it out.

    Will be honest and say, after having giving them a go for a few years, I've come around to thinking shirt jackets aren't that great. They can be OK in the summer months, depending on where you live, because they're the lightest layer possible. But there aren't many things that give you the flattering effects of a sport coat or suit jacket. If you're looking for a causal jacket, I would just look into actual casualwear and not try to do the "tailoring without being tailoring" thing.
     


  7. Foxhound

    Foxhound Distinguished Member

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    I looked a couple of months ago and there seemed to be a plethora of Justo Gimeno jackets on eBay.
     


  8. FlyingHorker

    FlyingHorker Senior Member

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    The reasons you mentioned are exactly why I am hesitant to try out the Teba jacket, the silhouette is definitely very different and even looks unflattering on some people.

    I appreciate the honesty. I'm definitely new to shirt jackets and they appeal to me as I'm generally too hot vs. too cold year-round, and sports coats/suits are simply too formal for all the contexts I am in.

    Safari jackets in particular often have something to cinch the waist to create more shape, so that appealed to me as well.

    I will see where to go from here after getting back my navy safari jacket, and see how useful I will actually find it. I do have a tendency to jump into things headfirst :D
    Thank you, I will keep an eye out for them on there Foxhound. The prices are far more reasonable from the few I've found so far.
     


  9. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Another source for Teba jackets and similar unstructured garments is Lopez Aragon. Their pricing is keen and they always have a range of Group MTOs running. Their item pages have very precise measurements and a very wide range of sizing options so you should be able to know what you will get / how it will fit before you order.
     


  10. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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