Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

I've only have first-hand knowledge of W. Bill swatches so I reserve the right to change my opinion. But, I (and my two tailors who have more experience with W. Bill) prefer LL linen.

Interesting. Perhaps I’ll investigate this. I believe I asked a similar question in the past & was told that the ll linens were in keeping with stuff ll likes - the people who commission 16 oz gray flannels (and certainly nothing less than 13). That’s not me. I like 11 oz flannels.

 

[brax]

Interesting. Perhaps I’ll investigate this. I believe I asked a similar question in the past & was told that the ll linens were in keeping with stuff ll likes - the people who commission 16 oz gray flannels (and certainly nothing less than 13). That’s not me. I like 11 oz flannels.

By its very nature, linen insulates less than wool but the LL options are quite light. They range from 3.8 ounce shirting to 8.8 ounce suiting.

 

[brax]

I can get you a shot of the Tobac and Brule side by side but not until tomorrow.

I can’t find the Brule in the book. I wonder if Michael renamed it. Tabac is still there and it is great.

 

[mactire]

Interesting. Perhaps I’ll investigate this. I believe I asked a similar question in the past & was told that the ll linens were in keeping with stuff ll likes - the people who commission 16 oz gray flannels (and certainly nothing less than 13). That’s not me. I like 11 oz flannels.

The LL books are based on the Quintin and Tropical ranges produced by Ulster Weavers under their 'Spence Bryson' brand, so you could try a variant out that way http://www.moygashel.com/apparel/index.html.

Some people with experience of both the LL and W. Bill have had the chance to directly compare and have given their thoughts above.

Also Baird McNutt use the name J Hanna Ltd https://jhannaltd.com/ to sell suitings and shirtings direct to the public.

 

[dan'l]

I always thought that 100% wool corduroy was a bit of a unicorn, but now that I've learned of it's existence, anyone know where to source a length? So far I've heard of Sultan's Fine Fabrics in TO, but since they look like a merchant, I was wondering where it is milled and by whom.

 

[Foxhound]

Melbourne Summers are killing me. Need to get a couple of pairs of trousers made up. What fabrics does everyone recommend. Would like to get Minnis Fresco, but $299USD is far too steep.

Can anyone comment on the Dugdale Fine Worsted, how these would go for super warm days? Or any alternatives?

X-Post from Aus Members, can anyone help me with the above? Especially interested to hear any comparisons of the Dugdale Fine Worsted trousers to Fresco, or if anyone can recommend any alternatives. I plan on buying from Luxire.

 

[ericgereghty]

Not as good imo, but plenty useful at a much more economical pricepoint

 

[Foxhound]

Thanks mate. I have also come across Dugdale's Cape Breeze, a 70/30 wool mohair blend. Can anyone comment on whether this will wear cooler?

 

[bamboo]

Thanks mate. I have also come across Dugdale's Cape Breeze, a 70/30 wool mohair blend. Can anyone comment on whether this will wear cooler?

NFW is more tightly woven normal worsted. It is warmer than Fresco for sure. Regarding NFW, there are some difference from a pattern to solid where it seems solid color one makes me feel cooler.

There are some with sensitive skin who do not like Fresco even with half lined to the knee.
I think Fresco Light in Fresco 3 book is definitely lighther, cooler and smoother. so you may take a look at that.

I don't have a direct experience of Cape Breeze but Mohair blend is different animal. I think it wears cooler but not so strong generally, but 30% may be OK.

 

[mactire]

I always thought that 100% wool corduroy was a bit of a unicorn, but now that I've learned of it's existence, anyone know where to source a length? So far I've heard of Sultan's Fine Fabrics in TO, but since they look like a merchant, I was wondering where it is milled and by whom.

http://peurist.com/bottoms/samuelsohn-brown-wool-corduroy-pants-fs.html

According to the above link trousers made by Samuelsohn use a 100% wool corduroy by Loro Piana, from their Zealander range.

 

[dan'l]

^ Thanks for the info.

 

[dan'l]

I found this on Instagram (on @EFV's account):

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd2LH9CDWFK/?taken-by=plazauomo
(Sorry, can't seem to embed the pic)

According to the tags, the corduroy is from Dugdale Bros. I searched their website and found the cord section, but it seems it is a cotton-poly blend:

http://www.dugdalebros.com/the-whit...duroy/colour/brown_12_wale_corduroy/page/146/

Cotton 82%
Polyamide 15%
Elastane 3%

I can understand having some Elastane for stretch and comfort, but 15% Polyamide sounds like a lot. Anyone have experience with this cloth?

 

[SimonC]

I do - Dugdale used to do really good pure cotton heavyweight corduroy but discontinued it and now only offer poly blends.

I have identical trousers made with both, and the old stuff is to my mind superior. Although perhaps many of those in the target market for heavy corduroy (old men...) like a little stretch, I find it makes the fabric drape less well since it just flops about.

To my eye there's been no significant change in the colour or depth of pile as part of the changeover.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Background info: I dress casually, very rarely wearing a suit or sports coat, just don't have any occasions to wear them. Usually wear chinos for pants.

So I'm in the middle of getting a safari jacket made in a light-navy linen, unlined, with a bunch of bells and whistles. Theoretically, it should be very versatile and useful for my wardrobe.

If that works out and my budget allows it, thinking about getting another shirt jacket made in a nicer fabric. Something that I can comfortably wear inside, like a looser, slouchier version of a sports coat, but won't look out of place in today's casual world.

This is the closest OTR thing I've found that fits the bill, but it's not in my size.

I currently dig the triple patch pocket look above, and might do a half-belt on the back with inverted box pleat.

https://luxire.com/products/dugdale-royal-classic-traditional-prince-of-wales-with-maroon-overcheck

That is one fabric I found. I am not sure if Luxire sells the fabric straight to consumer though.

So any ideas on what type of cloth to use, and possible styling? Where to buy a particular cloth as well?

@Andy57
@dieworkwear
@stubloom
@Shirtmaven

 

[heldentenor]

Have you looked at tebas (Spanish shirt-jackets initially made for hunting)? Lots of places stock them in the kind of rustic fabrics you have in mind. Might be just the trick.