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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    Beg pardon, you're right it is Zignone. I got three lengths in Naples and have sent one off to be made up and will report back in time re wear.

    Personally I loved the warmth of the tones, and they're similar in weight to Fox, c. 480g which is 17oz. They're between €35-€50/metre depending on which merchant you go to.
     


  2. brax

    brax Senior Member

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    I've only have first-hand knowledge of W. Bill swatches so I reserve the right to change my opinion. But, I (and my two tailors who have more experience with W. Bill) prefer LL linen.
     


  3. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    Interesting. Perhaps I’ll investigate this. I believe I asked a similar question in the past & was told that the ll linens were in keeping with stuff ll likes - the people who commission 16 oz gray flannels (and certainly nothing less than 13). That’s not me. I like 11 oz flannels.
     


  4. brax

    brax Senior Member

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    By its very nature, linen insulates less than wool but the LL options are quite light. They range from 3.8 ounce shirting to 8.8 ounce suiting.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018 at 4:47 PM


  5. brax

    brax Senior Member

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    I can’t find the Brule in the book. I wonder if Michael renamed it. Tabac is still there and it is great.
     


  6. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    The LL books are based on the Quintin and Tropical ranges produced by Ulster Weavers under their 'Spence Bryson' brand, so you could try a variant out that way http://www.moygashel.com/apparel/index.html.

    Some people with experience of both the LL and W. Bill have had the chance to directly compare and have given their thoughts above.

    Also Baird McNutt use the name J Hanna Ltd https://jhannaltd.com/ to sell suitings and shirtings direct to the public.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018 at 5:58 PM


  7. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    I always thought that 100% wool corduroy was a bit of a unicorn, but now that I've learned of it's existence, anyone know where to source a length? So far I've heard of Sultan's Fine Fabrics in TO, but since they look like a merchant, I was wondering where it is milled and by whom.
     


  8. Foxhound

    Foxhound Distinguished Member

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    X-Post from Aus Members, can anyone help me with the above? Especially interested to hear any comparisons of the Dugdale Fine Worsted trousers to Fresco, or if anyone can recommend any alternatives. I plan on buying from Luxire.
     


  9. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    Not as good imo, but plenty useful at a much more economical pricepoint
     


  10. Foxhound

    Foxhound Distinguished Member

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    Thanks mate. I have also come across Dugdale's Cape Breeze, a 70/30 wool mohair blend. Can anyone comment on whether this will wear cooler?
     


  11. bamboo

    bamboo Senior Member

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    NFW is more tightly woven normal worsted. It is warmer than Fresco for sure. Regarding NFW, there are some difference from a pattern to solid where it seems solid color one makes me feel cooler.

    There are some with sensitive skin who do not like Fresco even with half lined to the knee.
    I think Fresco Light in Fresco 3 book is definitely lighther, cooler and smoother. so you may take a look at that.

    I don't have a direct experience of Cape Breeze but Mohair blend is different animal. I think it wears cooler but not so strong generally, but 30% may be OK.
     


  12. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    http://peurist.com/bottoms/samuelsohn-brown-wool-corduroy-pants-fs.html

    According to the above link trousers made by Samuelsohn use a 100% wool corduroy by Loro Piana, from their Zealander range.
     


  13. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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