Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[mactire]

I have a sample of their mohair barathea if you like a scan

I would indeed please.

I might just chicken out and get another fresco mohair. Saves me money from buying another bolt. I would really like to get the herringbone mohair that bower Roebuck makes but that don’t sell to public :/

Whats this herringbone mohair they have?

 

[palodelincak]

Can anybody recommend some good trousering book for fall/winter casual trousers?

Fabric should have some visual interest and also it should hold the shape really good (I do not mind wrinkles, but the shape should stay perfect during the day).

Basically it should hold the shape like Fresco and look casual like flannel . Am I looking for a holy grail?

The colors I'm looking for are navy, cream, chocolate brown and dark green.

 

[The Chai]

I would indeed please.



Whats this herringbone mohair they have?

Unfortunately I have lost the sample

Correction, it's from Arthur Harrison. I saw it on one of the jackets sold by the Armoury... https://thearmoury.com/products/rin...ringbone-amj03-sport-coat?variant=49445377359 ...would love to get a cut length of this for a suit but I doubt they sell to the public :/

 

[bdavro23]

Can anybody recommend some good trousering book for fall/winter casual trousers?

Fabric should have some visual interest and also it should hold the shape really good (I do not mind wrinkles, but the shape should stay perfect during the day).

Basically it should hold the shape like Fresco and look casual like flannel . Am I looking for a holy grail?

The colors I'm looking for are navy, cream, chocolate brown and dark green.

Try the Holland and Sherry Dakota book.

 

[gdl203]

@mactire this suit is from Bateman Ogden mohair. It's a good cloth and I'd recommend it

 

[ericgereghty]

If Bateman & Ogden is a cloth merchant, aren't they sourcing from weavers? Or are they creating the cloths?

 

[palodelincak]

Try the Holland and Sherry Dakota book.

Thanks for advice - I'm currently waiting for a delivery of trousers in cavalry twill from Dakota book. However there are very little choices regarding my desired colors... So that's why I am asking.

 

[Concordia]

Can anybody recommend some good trousering book for fall/winter casual trousers?

Fabric should have some visual interest and also it should hold the shape really good (I do not mind wrinkles, but the shape should stay perfect during the day).

Basically it should hold the shape like Fresco and look casual like flannel . Am I looking for a holy grail?

The colors I'm looking for are navy, cream, chocolate brown and dark green.

Bedford cord?

 

[bdavro23]

Thanks for advice - I'm currently waiting for a delivery of trousers in cavalry twill from Dakota book. However there are very little choices regarding my desired colors... So that's why I am asking.

Last year's Dakota book is still available and would give you more options. The cover is a reddish color, this year they are blue. You could also look at the Eksdale book from Gladson (distributor for Huddersfield Fine Wools, hfwltd.com )

 

[mactire]

Unfortunately I have lost the sample

Correction, it's from Arthur Harrison. I saw it on one of the jackets sold by the Armoury... https://thearmoury.com/products/rin...ringbone-amj03-sport-coat?variant=49445377359 ...would love to get a cut length of this for a suit but I doubt they sell to the public :/

If its Arthur Harrison then you're in luck, that is Harrison's of Burley https://www.harrisonsburley.net and they definitely sell cut lengths to the public. That pattern isn't on their site at the moment so ring them up and ask if there's any left.

@mactire this suit is from Bateman Ogden mohair. It's a good cloth and I'd recommend it

Many thanks gdl203 I'll look into it. Is it a 2-ply mohair?

If Bateman & Ogden is a cloth merchant, aren't they sourcing from weavers? Or are they creating the cloths?

Bateman & Ogden are merchants, so they get stuff woven for them by mills in Huddersfield, I imagine William Halstead for the mohair.

 

[ericgereghty]

@mactire I don't mean to sound like a douche, but why not go through the actual weaver? Is there a benefit to going via Bateman & Ogden? And thanks for the website link!

 

[mactire]

@ericgereghty not at all, I don't mind explaining my reasoning. Although you can save quite a bit going through a mill for commission weaving a pattern etc., in my experience not all mills are the best for maintaining their own stock supported books in the same state as the merchants.

So shades, finishes, designs differ enormously. I'm contemplating a steel grey two tone mohair for a mod-style suit and there aren't that many options out there. Sure on the Harrisons of Burley site they've got wine/aqua, ink/gold, ginger and bottle green, but not the other shades I'd be interested in.

 

[The Chai]

If its Arthur Harrison then you're in luck, that is Harrison's of Burley https://www.harrisonsburley.net and they definitely sell cut lengths to the public. That pattern isn't on their site at the moment so ring them up and ask if there's any left.



Many thanks gdl203 I'll look into it. Is it a 2-ply mohair?



Bateman & Ogden are merchants, so they get stuff woven for them by mills in Huddersfield, I imagine William Halstead for the mohair.

Not Harrison’s burley. Arthur Harrison’s...they are owned by Taylor and lodge. If you want a modish steel grey suit i recommend looking into the halstead kid mohairs. I have one suit in navy and the stuff is beautiful. Their two and three ply stuff I have but I prefer mohair fresco partly because minnis have some colors in the mohair fresco that I like over the other. Though I can’t help noticing that some of the colors are similar. Just a different weave. Like both their midnights are the exact same color. Halsteads sell their cloth through pepper lee. You can order samples from there but you gotta pay for them...

 

[The Chai]

Anyone have any experience on how long fresco pants will last before they start to wear out (say with twice a week on rotation wear). I'm having this paranoia that my mohair fresco trousers will wear out so I'm debating on whether to purchase extra fabric before the Minnis discontinues the run.

 

[Concordia]

Wool fresco can hang around for a while-- I've had some trousers from the light 8/9oz stuff that is well over 10 years old, although, in fairness I do wear it for jacket & tie evenings and not for daily use.

Mohair may well be a different kettle of fish.