Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[PCK1]

so H&S has unfortunately discontinued the 'mustard yellow' corduroy swatch. P&H doesn't have anything similar. Anyone know of any other books that have a real mustard yellow?...and not that honey color...really yellow.

 

[jonathanS]

You're right. There's more of a roll on the fresco mohair than the kid. In saying that there's not much of a sheen on the fresco mohair. More so on the kid. You can see the roll on the double breasted here. It's also made out of fresco mohair. Though I suppose because of the weave you could probably get away with wearing it casually without a tie because of the surface texture. I wear my sbpl either purely with button downs or dress shirt and bow ties (when dancing)

View attachment 847346

I definitely like DB suits - I currently have a grey DB flannel coming - figured it'd be a good place to start with bespoke (couldn't go wrong). But I might look at a fresco mohair. I'll have a better idea when I have an opportunity to feel the fabrics in person next month. Definitely looking forward to that.

I like your treatment of SB Peak Lapels.

Thanks for the photos of the mohair suits to give me an idea of what the options are.

...alternatively you could always try the halsteads two ply or three ply mohair that has little sheen and a lot of surface texture. It's rough though...I'm not that brave yet...perhaps my tenth suit I might jump the gun but I should be getting a flannel next as I don't have one

I don't think Im venturous enough to go with a 2 or 3 ply mohair with a rough texture - theres a reason I am leaning toward a crispaire or finmeresco over Minnis Fresco.

 

[Fishball]

Does anyone know how to remove those numbering?

 

[jerrybrowne]

Does anyone know how to remove those numbering?

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Is it tailors chalk? Steam?

 

[jerrybrowne]

so H&S has unfortunately discontinued the 'mustard yellow' corduroy swatch. P&H doesn't have anything similar. Anyone know of any other books that have a real mustard yellow?...and not that honey color...really yellow.

Are we talking Heinz or Maille mustard yellow?

 

[palodelincak]

The cavalry twill from the H&S Dakota book is excellent. I have a pair in dark brown. I think it is around 13oz but drapes like a heavier cloth.

I'm looking for a dark brown cavalry twill, however I didn't find it in H&S Dakota book. Do you know the fabric code please?

 

[Fishball]

Is it tailors chalk? Steam?

No, it is not chalk.
It is the marking at the end of a bolt of Fox's flannel.
I also have another piece of Harrison Tweed has similar marking.

 

[aristoi bcn]

so H&S has unfortunately discontinued the 'mustard yellow' corduroy swatch. P&H doesn't have anything similar. Anyone know of any other books that have a real mustard yellow?...and not that honey color...really yellow.

Brisbane Moss. Good quality and ridiculous price.

And maybe:https://www.tessin.it/tessuti-abbig...ric-500-mustard-duca-visconti-di-modrone.html

 

[mactire]

Yes. I mean, id imagine any tailor on the forum could tell you that's about their rate. Despos, reeves etc are probably in that range.

When you talk about fittings and handwork, handpadding the chest / lapels etc, it's my understanding that you're looking at 80 hours of work for a full suit. I didn't ask what cmt prices are but I know the prices including fabric. Lumbs golden bale flannel cost me 4500 (well it's in process).

I think 80 hours is well over the average even allowing for the padding to be done by hand.

But of course if you're happy with the work why change it. I think we've all seen plenty heartache on the forum over that.

 

[PCK1]

Are we talking Heinz or Maille mustard yellow?

Brisbane Moss. Good quality and ridiculous price.

And maybe:https://www.tessin.it/tessuti-abbig...ric-500-mustard-duca-visconti-di-modrone.html

I would say it falls more in line with the Edmond Fallot Dijon. Brisbane doesn't seem to have anything quite bright enough.

I think Bruce Boyer wears the H&S shade I am looking for in this image:

 

[edmorel]

Does anyone know how to remove those numbering?

View attachment 847398

yes, with scissors. That part of the fabric is not supposed to be sold (its inventory/job/fabric numbers).

 

[jerrybrowne]

I would say it falls more in line with the Edmond Fallot Dijon. Brisbane doesn't seem to have anything quite bright enough.

I think Bruce Boyer wears the H&S shade I am looking for in this image:
View attachment 847455

I made up a pair just like that. HFW Corn is what I used- Eskdale Trouser collection #9360. The photo on the website is pretty washed out. I'd suggest getting a sample to be sure.

 

[poorsod]

I'm looking for a dark brown cavalry twill, however I didn't find it in H&S Dakota book. Do you know the fabric code please?

I don't have the fabric number. Sorry.

 

[ATWright]

Following on from my introduction to the Harrison's cloth vault a few months ago, I am posting a few of the pieces that I have extra length for. For those who didn't see the original post, the vault has the leftovers of the old WBill basement, it is at the same site, as well as all the remaining pre-acquisition Lesser cloth left. As some of you commented, this is the good stuff. If anyone is interested, PM me. All prices are below trade by some way, which is one of the benefits of buying from here.

Firstly, some real gold. Some vintage H.Lesser & Sons Lumbs Golden Bale. You can see the London Shrunk marking in the first photo. Unfortunately, the photos don't do it justice.

The lengths below are both heavyweight vintage Lesser, the good stuff. Feel free to PM with any questions.

 

[dan'l]

So, I seem to have the urge to pick up various lengths of unfunded liabilities, partly to have made next year and partly just for fun. This talk of the Lamlana collection being discontinued sort of spurred me on, I guess.

Anyways, do you guys ever buy cloth without having a plan to have it made up, within say 2-3 years? So far I've had my cloth made up within that time frame or even sooner. Now when you buy cloth that is beyond the indicated time frame (i.e. a "future"), are you ordering a different length, in order to protect the possibility of selling it? In my case, I only need 2m of cloth for a SC or 3m for suit, due to 1) my measurements and 2) my tailors' cutting ability. I'm wondering if I should be ordering 2.5m lengths when I hoard up on the Lamlana.