Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. ATWright

    ATWright Active Member

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    I'm not sure what to think about the H&S stuff. There do seem to be some interesting cloths, but a lot of it is quite expensive for what it is, e.g. Crispaire compared to Fresco. And while I respect Simon immensely, I do feel like there's a sponsorship angle in there somewhere.
     


  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The cavalry twill from the H&S Dakota book is excellent. I have a pair in dark brown. I think it is around 13oz but drapes like a heavier cloth.
     


  3. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    I think the Dakota book is the best on offer form H&S. Crispaire is nice, but better alternatives are out there. I'm not wild about their jacketing recently, thought thats mostly a stylistic criticism. I dont know why you would choose that house for suitings either.
     


  4. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear palodelincak

    Left fabric is obviously more versatile, although it may seem more suitable for the spring season.

    The right fabric provides a higher contrast with the trousers and it is fall-appropriate.

    Therefore, everything depends on your needs and width of your existing SC collection.

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     


  5. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    The H&S city of London book has 13-14 oz suitings that compare favorably (if not better) to anything from the big British mills for a relatively cheap price. Crispaire should be priced around the same as Fresco and it's softer and better color saturation, I find, but you may not want either. The Dakota book is terrific, the Flannels are terrific, the SherryKash book has some jacketings/suitings that you won't find anything similar to anywhere, and the SherryTweed book is a absolute classic for tweeds. The Target/Inner City/Classic Worsteds are all at least on par with similar offerings from the other firms, again at reasonable prices (all under $100/yd).
     


  6. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    Which do you like better for summer suits - a mohair blend of a fresco / finmeresco?
     


  7. The Chai

    The Chai Well-Known Member

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    I don't have access to finmeresco so I can't say. The only mohair suitings i have used are the minnis fresco and William halsteads. I didn't choose fresco because of the weather. More of the fact that I do ballroom dancing and it breathes better and doesn't crease as much :) my mohair frescos are quite breezy though. I have three suits made in them and about to get a fourth
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2017 at 7:58 AM


  8. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    So what do guys here usually go for when it comes to grey wool trousers, but lighter than flannel? I need a few new pairs after having lost lots of weight.
     


  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    11/12oz worsted (plain suiting)
    whipcord
    Crispaire
    Irish linen
    tropical weight suiting
    Fresco/Finmeresco
     


  10. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Really? Even in Ireland you can get a jacket for €700-800 CMT and about €150 for trousers.
     


  11. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    Yes. I mean, id imagine any tailor on the forum could tell you that's about their rate. Despos, reeves etc are probably in that range.

    When you talk about fittings and handwork, handpadding the chest / lapels etc, it's my understanding that you're looking at 80 hours of work for a full suit. I didn't ask what cmt prices are but I know the prices including fabric. Lumbs golden bale flannel cost me 4500 (well it's in process).
     


  12. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    thanks for that input. I'm thinking of commissioning a bespoke summer suit (patched pocket, barchetta, spella camicia etc) in finmeresco but I might look at the Mohair blends (still leaning toward finmeresco - possibly crispaire).
     


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