Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

Looking for advice on choosing a cloth for a business suit to be worn year-round in NYC office. I will be using a tailor that requires CMT. I already have a solid navy and charcoal suits amongst others. I've narrowed my choices down to the following. Any thoughts?

Dormeuil Iconik Charcoal and Blue
View attachment 797611

Grey Glen Check Super 120s

View attachment 797612


HS Grey Nailhead

View attachment 797613

HS Prince of Wales

View attachment 797614

Lesser

View attachment 797615

Save your money.

 

[Concordia]

Looking for advice on choosing a cloth for a business suit to be worn year-round in NYC office. I will be using a tailor that requires CMT. I already have a solid navy and charcoal suits amongst others. I've narrowed my choices down to the following. Any thoughts?

Dormeuil Iconik Charcoal and Blue
View attachment 797611

Grey Glen Check Super 120s

View attachment 797612


HS Grey Nailhead

View attachment 797613

HS Prince of Wales

View attachment 797614

Lesser

View attachment 797615

For business, the nailhead is classic. Perhaps the Lesser stripe, although that's less neutral. The first looks fine for evenings. Checks are increasingly OK in the NY, and quite OK in other cities, but if you want the sure thing, go with nailhead.

 

[Andy57]

For business, the nailhead is classic. Perhaps the Lesser stripe, although that's less neutral. The first looks fine for evenings. Checks are increasingly OK in the NY, and quite OK in other cities, but if you want the sure thing, go with nailhead.

^This

 

[ATWright]

I've got some spare soft, spongy escorial goodness for anyone who wants it. In a similar pattern to one of vox's LL gun clubs.

 

[Dusty Heaters]

Hi Everyone,

I want to start off by saying that this this thread has been a wealth of information and I truly appreciate the quality content/discussions that have been posted here. I'm sure those sentiments have been expressed by many before me and I hope the content continues to serve the many that will follow.

Admittedly, I am a mere greenhorn when it comes to cloth and probably a journeymen at best as it pertains to suiting/jacketing. That said I am looking for a relatively staple fabric for the suit that I'll wear to our wedding in late fall and was hoping you gentlemen could offer a couple suggestions?

My 'plan' or idea I should say is to commission a 3-piece peak lapel suit in a mid-grey. I've always been drawn to flannels for their visual intrigue...but the venue will be held in a somewhat tropical region of the US and given the gravity of the situation was worried I'd resemble a sweltering baked potatoe at the alter. That said, I'm relatively open to ideas and while I know there isn't exactly a shortage of 'mid-grey' fabrics out there...if there is anything your experience would suggest I would love to know.

Thank you all in advance for your time and wisdom.

 

[double00]

(X-POST FROM WATCH THREAD... i've been thinking about this and somebody's comment compelled me to flesh this out a little...)

imo the problem is not the shirt and shoes, it's modern worsted suiting. i have to meditate on this a little more but i've given some thought to the *problem* of the suit.... compare suiting from say the 60s or 70s with new stuff and across the board the older stuff is coarser but also less particular in certain ways. thing were pretty casual back then too (before my time but i think the SC was king in those days and it should be no surprise that brands like omega and rolex realized themselves in that environment)

my suspicion is that at some point the race to the finest micron has screwed it all up. i'm not sure that the premise of the modern suit is all that compatible with the premise of modern suiting. think of how far wool breeding and sorting (absolutely elemental to the final product) have come but the suit remains frozen in either the 50s, 60s or 70s depending on designer. to be continued...

 

[mactire]

This doesn't seem to be mentioned much on here so I thought I'd mention it. Keep an eye out for cloth moths.

Normally the main threat to your wardrobe is your waistline, however these fellas can munch their way through a bolt of cloth in a couple of weeks.

Most people don't know what they look like, often confusing them wifh the common moths that fly in your window attracted to light.

The cloth moth is a poor flier, and hides from light, scurrying into corners and under edges, folds etc.

 

[lordsuperb]

Hi Everyone,

I want to start off by saying that this this thread has been a wealth of information and I truly appreciate the quality content/discussions that have been posted here. I'm sure those sentiments have been expressed by many before me and I hope the content continues to serve the many that will follow.

Admittedly, I am a mere greenhorn when it comes to cloth and probably a journeymen at best as it pertains to suiting/jacketing. That said I am looking for a relatively staple fabric for the suit that I'll wear to our wedding in late fall and was hoping you gentlemen could offer a couple suggestions?

My 'plan' or idea I should say is to commission a 3-piece peak lapel suit in a mid-grey. I've always been drawn to flannels for their visual intrigue...but the venue will be held in a somewhat tropical region of the US and given the gravity of the situation was worried I'd resemble a sweltering baked potatoe at the alter. That said, I'm relatively open to ideas and while I know there isn't exactly a shortage of 'mid-grey' fabrics out there...if there is anything your experience would suggest I would love to know.

Thank you all in advance for your time and wisdom.

 

[WillingToLearn]

just don't get that hideous shirt, those moronic cuffs on the jacket, that gross tie, and get a mid grey, not a light grey, other than that, good start.

What about this in a 3 piece (its grey, I think McFox manipulated the color a bit), good surface interest

Lindley Collection by Huddersfield

 

[Dusty Heaters]

Spoiler: Pic

Thank you for the post. I do like the visual interest this fabric provides but I think my definition of 'mid-grey' is off base...Either that or there is something wrong with my phone's color display. To me, this would be a bit lighter than I was expecting. I commissioned a pair of wine colored balmoral boots to be worn with the suit. A darker grey would be a better pairing, no?

just don't get that hideous shirt, those moronic cuffs on the jacket, that gross tie, and get a mid grey, not a light grey, other than that, good start.

What about this in a 3 piece (its grey, I think McFox manipulated the color a bit), good surface interest

Spoiler: Pic

Lindley Collection by Huddersfield

Now I'm worried that something is truly off with my phone because that fabric appears bluish/green on my screen! I love the texture though, it's wonderful.

This might be more detail than you needed but...I planned on wearing a royal oxford, pure white, spread collar, french cuff shirt (inglese). A wide peak, high gorge, jacket with besom pockets, chest barchetta pocket, and standard surgeons cuffs. A lower cut, DB, v-shaped 6-button, shaw neck waistcoat. Higher rise trousers with a wide extended waistband, side tabs, brace buttons, and quad front pleats.

I was thinking something in this color range. What do you think?

 

[lordsuperb]

Thank you for the post. I do like the visual interest this fabric provides but I think my definition of 'mid-grey' is off base...Either that or there is something wrong with my phone's color display. To me, this would be a bit lighter than I was expecting. I commissioned a pair of wine colored balmoral boots to be worn with the suit. A darker grey would be a better pairing, no?

View attachment 798311




Now I'm worried that something is truly off with my phone because that fabric appears bluish/green on my screen! I love the texture though, it's wonderful.

This might be more detail than you needed but...I planned on wearing a royal oxford, pure white, spread collar, french cuff shirt (inglese). A wide peak, high gorge, jacket with besom pockets, chest barchetta pocket, and standard surgeons cuffs. A lower cut, DB, v-shaped 6-button, shaw neck waistcoat. Higher rise trousers with a wide extended waistband, side tabs, brace buttons, and quad front pleats.

I was thinking something in this color range. What do you think?
View attachment 798308

Flannel and boots in tropics:

 

[jebarne]

Looking for advice on choosing a cloth for a business suit to be worn year-round in NYC office. I will be using a tailor that requires CMT. I already have a solid navy and charcoal suits amongst others. I've narrowed my choices down to the following. Any thoughts?

Hard to go wrong with any of those.
I am a big fan of tonal checks, but in the POW I am partial to the classic mid-grey.

 

[Balinesian]

Hello, wise folk of Unfunded Liabilities
I've a swathe of Solibiati 480g linen being cut for a jacket. Wonder if anyone recommends patch pockets in this fabric or would it flop around like a turkey's wattle? Thanks in advance

 

[kolecho]

Hello, wise folk of Unfunded Liabilities
I've a swathe of Solibiati 480g linen being cut for a jacket. Wonder if anyone recommends patch pockets in this fabric or would it flop around like a turkey's wattle? Thanks in advance

Patch pockets are great for such casual jackets. I have some heavy Solbiati linens done that way. No problems at all.

 

[Balinesian]

Patch pockets are great for such casual jackets. I have some heavy Solbiati linens done that way. No problems at all.

Awesome! Appreciate the quick reply, Kolecho.