Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bromley]

All good points, though I would say the one thing that underscores this is everyone on this thread evidently loves cloth. Extending the search for cloth is just another way to lengthen the bespoke chase, and I'm sure tailors appreciate it more than having us in the store for countless hours looking through swatch books when they could be serving other clients.

That said, I was looking for some books under the Harrison's umbrella that my tailor didn't have and ended up in their showroom on Sackville Street, just down from Savile Row. I'm not entirely sure it's intended for customers to just rock up, I think my tailor mentioned something about it awhile ago, though I didn't get any impression that I was unwelcome from the staff. A really helpful young guy showed me the books I was looking for, as well as some that were yet to be released. But the highlight was the vintage/deadstock cloth, a solid portion of which was older that I am. I took a quick photo which represents about an eight of the offerings. A lot of stuff in stripes and qualities you don't find anymore.

View attachment 795804

Since so much of it is discontinued or end of the bolt, etc, they require you to buy all the remaining length, but they basically charge the per meter price for the whole length, meaning it's a great bargain. I'm getting some tan summer trouser cloths from H. Lesser & Sons. I have trousers in another vintage Lesser of the same bunch, based on the selvedge/year/finish, just a slightly darker color. It drapes and resists wrinkles impeccably, so I hope this will live up to that.

I'll post pictures later, but given I'll be getting 3m+ of each, and don't see a need for two identical pairs of trousers, anyone who wants can have the left over 1.5m+ for cost price.

Congrats on the find. The vibrancy of color in old H. Lesser cloths was incredible. From what I understand they achieved the effect with dyes that have been made illegal in more recent years. Lesser also used to be famous for its extremely exacting standards in every part of the weaving/finishing process-- standards which have apparently been relaxed in recent years. I like many of their current cloths, but they don't stack up to the older stuff I've seen. Please do post pictures.

 

[milosh]

What books should I be looking at for summer wool? Ideally available to buy in cut lengths.

 

[Coxsackie]

Funded: my length of LL Agnelli tweed.

Made up for me by Coccinella of Osaka.

 

[Andy57]

Funded: my length of LL Agnelli tweed.

Made up for me by Coccinella of Osaka.

That looks beautiful! It's a great cloth and you'll enjoy that suit for a long time to come!

 

[CharlieWhite]

Does anyone have an extra 3m length of this agnelli tweed ?

 

[ATWright]

If you can't find any there's a similar piece from HFW flannel, 510003, though not a rope windowpane. It looks better in person.

 

[dfoverdx]

I've 5m of this cloth, even though i am selling a lot of cloth in these days i will keep this for myself.
There's design of course but what i really like with the Agnelli tweed is the type of cloth. It's a very good tweed suiting, is not feeling very heavy, good density, and slightly drier than P&H glenroyal and not on the rustic side.

 

[taxgenius]

I've 5m of this cloth, even though i am selling a lot of cloth in these days i will keep this for myself.
There's design of course but what i really like with the Agnelli tweed is the type of cloth. It's a very good tweed suiting, is not feeling very heavy, good density, and slightly drier than P&H glenroyal and not on the rustic side.

Is your stuff on B&S?

 

[dfoverdx]

Is your stuff on B&S?

Good remark. Not yet but i am going to list them in B&S.

 

[taxgenius]

Good remark. Not yet but i am going to list them in B&S.

Looking forward.

 

[OxfordDon]

Does anyone have an extra 3m length of this agnelli tweed ?

Check with LL. Recently there was excess available from the last run.

 

[mactire]

Good remark. Not yet but i am going to list them in B&S.

What have you got?

 

[taxgenius]

Looking for advice on choosing a cloth for a business suit to be worn year-round in NYC office. I will be using a tailor that requires CMT. I already have a solid navy and charcoal suits amongst others. I've narrowed my choices down to the following. Any thoughts?

Dormeuil Iconik Charcoal and Blue


Grey Glen Check Super 120s




HS Grey Nailhead



HS Prince of Wales



Lesser

 

[ericgereghty]

The HS POW without a doubt for me. Uber classic.

 

[circumspice]

The HS POW without a doubt for me. Uber classic.

I tend to agree.

The first one is too self-stripe-y, which I have no love for.

The POW with purple overcheck may be my most favorite, but I definitely view it as FW only.

The nailhead seems a little directional, less classic - more dotted appearance.

I am not a huge pinstripe guy