Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    allen :nest: wouldnt it be better if you just created a new thread about your youtube videos instead of constantly posting them in this thread? thanks
     
  2. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    These videos are the only content being posted here, and are preventing this thread from stagnation.
     
  3. circumspice

    circumspice Senior member

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    I am kicking around the idea of a corduroy suit, looking for very fine wale. Any particular books I should look at?
     
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I have a mid-wale corduroy suit made from Hunt & Winterbotham's Eskdale bunch. I assume they have some pinwales on there. You can check with Huddersfield Fine Worsted, who sells the fabric.

    Brisbane Moss also sells corduroy, although I don't know if they have needlecords in there. Be careful with the weight. If I remember correctly, they measure by linear meter, not square meter, so you'll have to convert (if you normally think of fabrics in square meter weights).

    Both of those are pure cotton, which will feel slightly stiff. If you want something softer, you might want to look for a cotton/ cashmere blend. I believe @GusW has something like that from Zegna.
     
  5. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    thats not really a convincing argument tbh. moreover, this thread was doing quite well actually. on average no more or less stagnation lately than there has been over the last nine years. not every thread needs the amount of posts as e.g. waywn.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM
  6. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Senior member

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    It's the other way round: They use g/m^2, so you could multiply by 1,46m, or whatever the width is, since g/lm seems more common in the industry (even though g/m^2 is more sensible, obviously).
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    you were actually correct, the fabric is 14 micron wool (80%) and cashmere (20%), I was mistaken because I only saw the Cashmere on the selvedge.
     
  8. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have had two cotton and cashmere blend corduroy suits. They were soft, comfortable and had a nice drape from day one. When it came time to get a new corduroy suit, the cashmere/cotton blend fabrics were close in price to pure cashmere (crazy!). And, the 100% cotton options felt stiff and hard as though backed with cardboard. Jim Ockert at Khaki's of Carmel found an option in a Zegna book. It was a cotton with 3% Elastine. I never thought I would consider a synthetic but the Elastine gives a soft feel to the fabric without the stiffness of 100% cotton. I found that I actually prefer the little bit of stretch that the Elastine offers. I've worn the suit for coast-to-coast flights and never even think about taking off the jacket because it is so comfortable.

    The Zegna options aren't the old-school 50's-60's colors or wide wale corduroy. They are a bit more modern with a slight dusty look and a narrow wale. The overall effect is a bit muted which I think is nice. I chose green but they also had a charcoal, a burgundy and navy as I recall.

    I've owned a lot of corduroy jackets and suits since I was in college. My favorite colors have been the mossy greens and chestnut/browns. Those colors don't pretend to be a formal suit and mix perfectly with jeans and heavy derbys or boots which is how I've worn them 90% of the time. The pic, below, is of a custom Ring Jacket suit. The shirt, tie and pocket square are all from NMWA.
    DSCF0033.jpg
     
  9. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Does the elastine prevent wrinkles/have any other effects or is it purely for stretch?
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It offers both stretch and softness. Now that you mention it I guess it is a bit less prone to wrinkles but I've never had much of a wrinkle problem with any corduroy.
     
  11. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    A little wrinkle resistance, a little more resistance to liquids penetrating the fabric but the stretch is the selling point. I love cotton/elastene for pants, but people here elastene and assume it's a cost cutting measure or a cheap fabric. Incotex and a lot of the Italian brands make their cotton pants in this blend.
     

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