Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    Hi Sprout,

    Roomy suits look nice: To you and many others, I'm sure they do. Precisely the reason why Sack Suits exist and were invented - Just have a look at JFK's old pictures. But then again, I am not interested in a Sack Suit otherwise I would not have scoured the earth to arrive at the doorstep of a Neapolitan tailor.

    In Alan Flusser's "Dressing The Man", there's an entire section that discusses fit at the coat waist and suppression, replete with diagrams. He suggests that one should be able to get no more than two fingers spread apart between your torso and the coat button. I can get an entire fit into my coats.

    The diagrams also suggest there should be some slight tension at the waist button which serves as the fulcrum of the coat and body in general, but not so much that horizontal lines begin the appear. So all this talk about wearing 'Rice Sacks" in the name of a "Classic Look" is quite befuddling and frankly doesn't interest me.

    If you like a Sack Suit, by all means go for it. Some put years into a disciplined diet and the gym to preserve a certain silhouette and I'm not sure why one should pay a tailor through the nose to obscure the evidence.

    My 2 cents

    Alan Bee
     
  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    That is a straw man argument that makes a false dichotomy, and I think you know it.

    You look sharp and spry and youthful and healthy and go-getting and suave. But I would not feel at ease and utterly relaxed to have a conversation with you about Best Romanian Watercolor Illustrators of the 1960s while chomping on focaccia in a little garden terrace. The severity of your getup would not be conducice to relaxation.

    Your zip-up sweater that you wore to Cappelli's grotto was more conducive to relaxation. Although Mssr. Cappelli looked quite on edge.
     
  3. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    You old fox Sprout :) Never short of a counter argument, are you?

    Indeed I wear my 15 year old navy cardigan quite comfortably and I often wear such a look circumstances warranting. Then again, here we are on a forum that caters to precision tailored clothing. Should I then deduce from your mini-lecture above that tailored clothing should wear like a cardigan or better still, pajamas? At least in order to confirm my place with, and secure the high privilege of discussing ancient art over English breakfast tea with Sprout in his little garden terrace??

    And your earlier comment or pock shot regarding folks from "The Commonwealth" and enunciation of the word "gross-grain", I suppose you folks from the "The Empire" didn't quite do a complete job at imparting your language, did you? Thankfully, I have chanced upon Sprout on SF and he can pick up from where his forbearers left off :)

    Alan Bee
     
  4. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Dude, the only mini-lecture going on is from you, lol.

    It should wear like pajamas! Very comfortable but handsome. No need for a sack suit. A little suggestion of volume creates savoir-faire and eases tension.

    1960s is ancient art? Egad! What is the world coming to? And whyfor do you malign my garden terrace? We can also do it in a penthouse bar with booming bass if you like.

    You lost me on the last one. I thought you were from a Queen's English country. Which empire are we talking about? The Roman empire? The only grain they grossed was wheat to fill the granaries of their robust agricultural stockyards. Anyway, I'm not concerned with enunciation, but pronunciation. Shouldn't the ess be soft? It is, after all, a French word. Please clarify if there is a special pronunciation.
     

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