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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    The overcheck in the picture above is not square, it's rectangular, and the rectangles should be oriented to be tall rather than wide.
     


  2. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    I am feeling quite embarrassed that i have the same gunclub fabric (EXACT same config) in the works.

    No DTO!! [​IMG]


    Give in to the groupthink!!!
     


  3. eg1

    eg1 Senior member

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    Waiting with baited breath for the outcome. [​IMG] Let us know what your tailor thinks. Are these good for trousers or just jacketings?

    I met with my tailor yesterday (he made a point of noting I've gained a little weight [​IMG] ) and asked him if the material was suitable for trousers. He said that they could be made from these tweeds, but that they would have to be fully lined because they would itch, and that they would be quite heavy. He did say that "the old-timers" (as he called them) used to wear them, and make suits from them, and specifically mentioned "the English" (he is Italian) wore them before the advent of central heating.

    So, yachtie, sounds like only "old-timers" like you and Sator might be interested in John Molloy trawseez ... [​IMG]

    He's pretty busy, so no fitting for me for at least 5 weeks. [​IMG]
     


  4. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Nice one, Trini.
     


  5. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    Seeking for wisdom from members here regarding fabric weight and size as I'm a bit confused with the fabric weight information on how to convert the weight from running meter or running yard to linear meter or linear yard.

    Would a linen fabric with a weight of 180 gram per square meter (width 150cm) be suitable for jacket? and what about linen fabric with a weight of 430 gram per square meter (width 90cm), would it be suitable for jacket?

    Thanks.
     


  6. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    The weights you quote don't seem right - 430 gms/sq.m is in the range of 15oz flannels. Can you share your source?
     


  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    coolpapabooze, I was just going through my books and fox has something they may interest you, not the exact copy of the LP, but a close proximity, I'll post the pic tomorrow, its number FS625
    I'll save Ed the trouble. Below is a photo of said fabric and this came to mind as well when I first saw coolpapabooze's photo. I have 4 meters of this waiting to get made into a 3-piece one of these days. Tough to justify suits these days when I wear them only once a month! I love the subtle red here and paired with a Burgundy Ermazine lining will be killer. The fabric is very soft, not too heavy, yet sturdy. The first photo is a good indication of the overall color while the second allows you to see the red a bit more clearly. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  8. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks D, that is it. It's listed as 290/320 gms and has a woolen finish. Probably good for 9 months.

    Trini, i like the shape of your lapels, look very nice. I would suggest that you tell your tailor, on the patch pockets, to make the opening smaller than the bottom, that way they won't look square.
     


  9. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I met with my tailor yesterday (he made a point of noting I've gained a little weight [​IMG] ) and asked him if the material was suitable for trousers. He said that they could be made from these tweeds, but that they would have to be fully lined because they would itch, and that they would be quite heavy. He did say that "the old-timers" (as he called them) used to wear them, and make suits from them, and specifically mentioned "the English" (he is Italian) wore them before the advent of central heating. So, yachtie, sounds like only "old-timers" like you and Sator might be interested in John Molloy trawseez ... [​IMG] He's pretty busy, so no fitting for me for at least 5 weeks. [​IMG]
    Not old, just cold! [​IMG] Thx!
     


  10. scruff

    scruff Senior member

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    Some lightweight Zegna (green) and Kiton (blue) cashmere. I've been looking for pastels with subtle overcheck, and these fit the bill (though I do worry about the sturdiness of the fabric).

    Likely a two-patch configuration unless Frank suggests that I go w/ 3.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  11. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Does anyone know the details of this fabric, specifically what book it is in? I have been looking for something exactly like this for awhile. This is from PhatGuido's blog (I pm'd him and got no response) and he describes it thusly:

    Suit#1 Loro Piana 270 gm wool/cashmere POW plaid with warm tones & blue highlights . Jacket will have 2 button, single breast, 2 curved hip patch pockets,"barchetta" breast pocket, soft shoulder aka "spalla camicia", twin vent, 1/2 lined in navy, canvassed, & 4 kissing functioning button hole sleeves. Pantaloons will be flat front, natural waist rise, no belt loops, side adjusters, button fly, looser leg from knee down & 5cm cuffs. All hand finished.

    [​IMG]


    I think this fabric is from Patrick Johnsons Ariston book. Most of the fabric is woven for Ariston by Loro Piana and Zegna not surprise if you don't see it in the LP books.
     


  12. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    PSA: A seller on ebay has 3 lengths (well, 2 now since I just bought 1) of charcoal pick and pick Lumb's Golden Bale. It's the Taylor and Lodge stuff, not the Lesser stuff. It's a good deal at the buy it now price, and he accepts offers. It's on the heavier side, and the lengths are only 3.3 meters, so it may not work for some of you bigger guys. Nonetheless, a pretty good deal on some nice cloth: http://cgi.ebay.com/100-WOOL-GOLDEN-...item43a77965d4
     


  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Anyone has experience with Islay Woollen Mill? Quality of their tweed? Will they ship internationally?
    I found this:


    Yes, their quality is excellent and they ship internationally.
     


  14. kcc

    kcc Senior member

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    Does anyone know the details of this fabric, specifically what book it is in? I have been looking for something exactly like this for awhile. This is from PhatGuido's blog (I pm'd him and got no response) and he describes it thusly:

    Suit#1 Loro Piana 270 gm wool/cashmere POW plaid with warm tones & blue highlights . Jacket will have 2 button, single breast, 2 curved hip patch pockets,"barchetta" breast pocket, soft shoulder aka "spalla camicia", twin vent, 1/2 lined in navy, canvassed, & 4 kissing functioning button hole sleeves. Pantaloons will be flat front, natural waist rise, no belt loops, side adjusters, button fly, looser leg from knee down & 5cm cuffs. All hand finished.

    [​IMG]


    Nice. My current search for grey PoW without highlights has been fruitless. [​IMG], any ideas folks?
     


  15. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice. My current search for grey PoW without highlights has been fruitless. [​IMG], any ideas folks?

    Grey and white or grey and black? What weight? I might have some ideas. Some of the italian firms like VBC or LB may be of use.
     


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