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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    William Halstead also.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Fresco 3 ply 15oz . Excellent drape and not hot .
     
  3. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Indeed. I had forgotten they offered 100% mohair
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Have either of you traveled to Abu Dhabi or Dubai? I have been to both cities and every modern building (of which there are many) is kept cold with central air conditioning. Their vast malls are their national pasttime in a way, maybe because they provide refuge from the heat outside.

    Barcelona isn't a good comparison because continental Europe doesn't have anywhere near that level of air conditioning. They are usually window units, if anything.

    So if you're working mainly inside, it's not unreasonable to have a 13 oz cloth. Especially if you want to try out the forum famous English-style "dry" cloths from Lesser and the Harrisons Oyster line.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
    2 people like this.
  5. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    I used to live in Oman, so I understand completely about aggressive air conditioning. If OP is weighing up different fabrics based purely on the temperature inside office buildings then the fact they're in Dubai is irrelevant.

    Presumably OP mentioned Dubai because he also needs to factor in the outside temps.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I spent 9 months there (Oman) and you couldn't pay me enough to wear even the lightest linen suit...but I was also outside 90% of the time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I think the AC thing is a relevant consideration. Office buildings in the US can get downright freezing during the summer when the AC is cranked. It's enough to make you want to put on a jacket or sweater. From what I remember from UAE, it can be the same or worse.

    Maybe a helpful question would be to ask the OP how many hours he spends inside during the day? And how often does he travel outside during the day? Does he drive or walk to work? @Alan Bee

    In the OP's original thread he mentioned wanting to try out some heavier, dryer English fabrics because of the way they drape. I advised against 16 oz (much too heavy), but said he could get away with 13 oz.

    He also said he travels to Europe for business occasionally. He could get additional use out of the 13 oz suits there too.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/538584/wardrobe-rebuild-cloth-weight-dilemma-13oz-vs-16oz/0_50
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  8. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Well,

    He said he wears only linen during summer months, so I was assuming he's outside AC zones often, hence my recommendations.
     
  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    When is hot outside and you are inside air conditioned building, a light suit is more then enough. It is 14 Celsius currently in London, will be 16 later. The AC is set at 18 and I am wearing just a shirt inside...

    I have been in Dubai quite a few times. Winter and summer and even inside air conditioned sites, I was wearing either a shirt or a polo. Suggesting that you can wear 16 oz and Tweeds, or even 13 oz, is laughable in my opinion.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    Aristoi, JRD & Others who've contributed,

    Life in Dubai/Abu Dhabi is typically building-car-building, very little walking indeed. I do not envisage long strolls outside in the afternoon to grab a sandwich at lunch or such. The suits will primarily be worn indoors with the occasional dash across to the other building - or walk from the car valet into a building. Hope this helps.

    Since my 16oz ambitions have been clipped to perhaps 13oz, what would you gentlemen recommend? As we speak, I'm looking at the following 13oz bunches

    1. H. Lesser No. 303 13os
    2. H. Lesser Lumbs Golden Bale
    3. Harrisons Oyster (Thistle Range)
    4. Smith Woolens Botany

    These will be a blend of "workhorse" suits and "deal-closing" and the "core" of my wardrobe. I have waited to get to these in order to make my mistakes along the way and understand better what I want from bespoke before moving into very expensive cloth.

    As Aristoi points out above, I'm still on the fence as to whether to "abandon" summer suits altogether since the summers here take precisely zero prisoners.

    Any ounce of advice in this regard will be highly appreciated. I should add that I'm not from Dubai/Abu Dhabi and don't intend to be here forever. I would in most likelihood move back to NYC which is where I've spent most of my adult years (and where I joined SF). I would only hope this wardrobe will outlive my tenure living here.

    Alan
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
  11. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    I would not suggest Golden Bale for workhorse suits.
     
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    "Workhorse" to me means a sturdy English cloth with a dry hand that won't wear out easily.

    The Oyster line is famous for that (I think it's nicknamed the "Thistle" line because it's sturdy)

    The Lesser 13 is too

    No direct experience with Botany but I think it's similar

    Lumbs, definitely not.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
  13. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Golden Bale suits can be surprisingly durable, but it's a bit much to imagine wearing them out in the office. If nothing else, the expense would make me feel guilty.

    The others are very standard choices. You might add Minnis Classic (12-13oz).

    If you're having more than one made at a time, do consider at least one durable lighter-weight suit, just in case your tolerance for the thermostat isn't quite what you are guessing now. For that, think of Lesser 11-12, Harrison/P&B Fine Classics (11-12), Smith Blue Riband/Finmaryn (10-11). Even Harrisons Frontier (10oz), which makes an excellent 3-season suit in more temperate climates.

    If you do go to NY, all of these will still be useful.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
  15. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    My experience of air-con is that it is much cooler outside of Europe than within.

    In the US and in Asia I find it's like sitting in a windy fridge: must be 16C max with added wind-chill from the air movement.

    But I didn't grow up with air conditioning (like most people in the UK), so I guess I'm used to sitting in warmer temperatures.
     
  16. seferphier

    seferphier Well-Known Member

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    I would pass on LGB and Lesser fabrics. I have one LGB made up. The elbow area of my suit shined within a month. I understand it's suppose to be the holy grail of fabric - honestly, it's not even that nice. It's one of my least worn suits.
     
  17. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    I find the past couple of pages pretty amusing. It's akin to my coworker debating on adding a 5k option of a backup camera for his F12 Berlinetta. Maybe it's the context of how the original advice was requested. To me it reads like, I've had loads of sprez made by the Maestro, but i need some help in deciding on a heavier cloth. But in an effort to help, I have found Dormeuil Royal 12 a nice compromise between price, weight, drape and hand.

    And i'm sure @lordsuperb is with me, I'm sick of talking about anything heavier than 9 oz; especially as a prelude to 2ft of snow in NYC.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  18. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    What is the weight of your LGB ? I found out the 7.5 oz (240 gm ) is too weak .
     
  19. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    Hi FirenzeRob,

    I'm not sure what your point is, please elucidate. Are you suggesting that the OP (me) is gloating over a bespoke wardrobe project or that he's feigning ignorance on the subject of cloth weights and choice?

    Alan Bee
     
  20. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    Hi Sepherfier,

    I hear LGB is quite delicate and can understand how it might yield to heavy use but all my knowledge gathered from this forum and elsewhere suggests that the standard fare H. Lessers (10/11, 13, and 16oz) are indestructible. Please educate me further.

    Alan Bee
     

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