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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Big companies often have in-house fabric designers who'll work with mills to create seasonal collections. The offcuts are sometimes sold to jobbers, which is why you see Kiton or Zegna fabric at places such as Tip Top or Britex. They're not part of a mill or distributor's stock inventory though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2017
    2 people like this.
  2. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Are you guys crazy? Light grey and cream flannel go with everything, and between the two can handle the subtle cool or warm cast of a variety of sport coats. The fact that they have historical precedent doesn't per se make them anachronistic.
     
    9 people like this.
  3. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Would rather wear medium gray and blend in with the normals. Call me crazy.
     
  4. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    But no one notices fawn or light grey. They just see if you're fat.
     
    5 people like this.
  5. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    My normal could easily be a T, jeans, and Chucks, so I'll happily be like Portland and stay weird [​IMG]
     
  6. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    i think of OG tennis slacks when i think of cream flannel. pretty old skool but goes well with a cricket jumper no doubt.
     
  7. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Which is a more and more sensitive subject as I get older.
     
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  8. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    PS i use to be the wallabee champ.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2017
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  10. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    If the wallabees aren't blue and cream I don't want to hear about it.
     
  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I can honestly say I've never seen anyone wear cream trousers or any type of flannel trousers outside of the styleforum circle.
     
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  12. Marsay

    Marsay Senior member

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    Half of Washington swears they've never seen Sergey Kislyak so I don't know what to believe anymore.
     
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  13. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Anyone got any experience using Hardy Minnis "Eskdale" Cavalry Twill No.7338? How does Minnis' Cavalry Twill compare to Dugdale's or Moon's Cavalry Twill?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    No experience with either, but those are on the opposite sides of the weight spectrum. The Eskdale you're looking at is 11/12 oz; the Moon around 21 oz. Cavalry twill, especially in wool, wears warm -- so 21oz will be very warm. I was recently talking to @DavidLane about his Dugdale cav twills, which are 21oz, and he says he finds them too hot for temperatures above 50.

    If you're looking at 21oz cav twills, there's Dugdale. A little heavier still is Hainsworth (a whooping 24 oz, which sounds intimidating). Hainsworth supposedly popular on Savile Row, although I imagine at that weight, it's only for coats.

    Huddersfield is a little lighter around 17oz. I have a pair of cav twill trousers from them coming next week. A little lighter still is Holland & Sherry, which is 15oz or so, depending on the color (if I remember correctly).

    Not sure 17oz was a good idea, but we'll see. I think H&S might be the best bet in terms of weight and warmth, but I found the Huddersfield colors more appealing (at least for the tans).

    FWIW, I have a corduroy suit made from the Eskdale bunch and like it, but it's a completely different fiber and weave.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2017
  15. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Recently had a pair made in Eskdale gabardine, 300g.
     
  16. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    I have a pair in Moon's Cav Twill. I love 'em. Mine are not too warm so far on any day this year. I'd get another pair in a dark fawn or taupe but Moon does not make those colors. Interested to hear what you think of your Huddersfield Cav twills. Would you mind adding a link to the cloth you used? Who is making them for you?

    Part of the reason I asked about the Eskdale was because it is clearly lightweight. One reason I love the Moon cloth is it drapes like iron, really superbly. I'm looking for a Cav Twill in taupe.
     
  17. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Thanks, but quite different.
     
  18. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Just checked, same weight. So I suppose they are very similar. Good for spring or even early summer.
     
  19. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Okay, that's interesting. But I would think that gabardine would drape differently than Cav twill. Perhaps not, though. I don't have any experience with a Cav Twill that lightweight.
     
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Here's the Huddersfield link:

    http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Search?Search=cavalry

    There might be more colors if you get a hold of the actual book. I don't remember the ref number for the cloth I choose, but it looks like it could be #H7460.

    The shop I'm going through is Tailor's Keep in San Francisco. Normally suspicious of places like that. It's more of a MTM shop, even though they have an in-house bespoke option, and the place has a somewhat neo-heritage-y vibe. Owner of the place is a young dude, which to me just says "fashion guy" instead of tailor.

    That said, I was impressed with the trousers they made for @UrbanComposition. A photo from his IG:

    [​IMG]

    Ryan, the guy behind the shop, isn't an actual cutter. He just hires one, and he acts as the fitter. The cutter isn't present at the fittings (at least he wasn't at mine). But, I brought in three pairs of pants I was somewhat unhappy with -- NSM, Steed, and Ambrosi -- and he made all three fit well. The NSM and Ambrosi trousers didn't fall as cleanly as I wanted in the back; the Steeds were cut a bit too full. He altered all three really nicely, so I put in an order for a pair of bespoke trousers.

    I have a fitting next week. We'll see how the pants turn out, but I've been impressed with Ryan so far. He really knows his stuff and is a very straight shooter. I also like the idea of being able to get pants locally, instead of waiting around for a year to get something back. Prices are about NSM, depending on the amount of handwork you want and the cloth you choose. And NSM is about the best bargain I've seen for bespoke pants.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017

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