Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[poorsod]



^ Ask and you shall receive! Here's a photo of my AFB Minnis Flannel #0304 made up by Chan. Keep in mind I altered the breast pocket to make it slightly curved and lowered the top buttons a slight bit.

Quote:

 

[SimonC]



Because of the high cost of imported fabrics here, I wanted to learn more about purchasing fabric on my own. I read through several of the most recent and early pages which gave me some general information. I know the world of fabrics is extremely vast, but is there somewhere I can read for a summary/primer to get a general understanding and overview? Thanks!

Just cutting through the 'types of fabric', which you'll get plenty of primers on:

1. SF trends toward the unusual, e.g. Fresco. Cool as it goes, but lay down some basics e.g. mid-grey and navy worsted before you get into the funky stuff.

2. Unless you are buying direct from the mill and paying their gouging $$$ prices, there is usually a reason bolts are for sale on the secondary market - colour is off slightly from the norm, or a small defect. This can be fine, but go in with your eyes open.

3. Vintage bolts are great value if you can stomach buying 2-3 bolts for every one you make up. Cloth never looks like the photo, you have to handle it in person and see what you think. If you pay $40 or so, you can afford to do this.

 

[Cantabrigian]



Great - thanks.

Could be a winner.

 

[arcfire]

I'm looking for a linen fabric that is similar to this that I have. Something with more texture and different shades in 1 fabric unlike the common flat grey. I'm not able to get my hands on the same fabric hence looking for alternatives.

I'm wondering if anyone would be able to recommend me some linen that meet my requirements? Looking at something of heavier weight for a jacket I'd like to do up.

Thanks!

 

[SimonC]

14oz open-weave (a la fresco) variegated navy worsted shot through with white flecks. Best of all, check out the name on the selvedge...

 

[fllick]

Can anyone direct me to any mill with 11/12 oz cavalry twill? Thanks!

 

[dieworkwear]

Fortune has an interesting article today on IP lawsuits over textile designs. It's couched as "copyright trolls," although who knows how original those designs in dispute are.

http://fortune.com/2015/10/07/patent-trolls-fashion/

Possibly problematic in menswear, depending on the bar for "creativity."

 

[CrimsonWave]



I'm looking for a linen fabric that is similar to this that I have. Something with more texture and different shades in 1 fabric unlike the common flat grey. I'm not able to get my hands on the same fabric hence looking for alternatives. I'm wondering if anyone would be able to recommend me some linen that meet my requirements? Looking at something of heavier weight for a jacket I'd like to do up. Thanks!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Take a look at Fratelli Tallia di Delfino's "Lino Delavé" bunch: http://www.carnet.it/it/24-lino-delave Many colours to choose from. 250 gms.

 

[Johnsson]

Can anybody ID this jacketing? It's being sold as an 11oz tweed, but the only similar one I could find is Glenhunt 870, which is ~17oz. There are a couple of similar 12oz cloths from Hardy Minnis Worsted Alsport 2, but the price combined with the fact that it is labelled a tweed leads me to believe it's not that either.

 

[firenze_rob]



I'm in the UK so can't comment on the first two but on the third I heard nothing between ordering and the cloth arriving at my door.

As a follow up to my previous post, the company reached out to me and are sending my lengths. They didn't have a dark grey herringbone W. Bill's that I ordered, but were quick to replace it with something else. Shipping is via Royal Mail to the States, so hopefully I'll be saved from import duty. Will snap some pics once things arrive.

 

[arcfire]

Take a look at Fratelli Tallia di Delfino's "Lino Delavé" bunch: http://www.carnet.it/it/24-lino-delave

Many colours to choose from. 250 gms.

Where would I be able to purchase this fabric? Or would I have to go through my tailor?

 

[JL724]

Too many choices and I don't need anymore sport coats.....

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[CrimsonWave]



Can anybody ID this jacketing? It's being sold as an 11oz tweed, but the only similar one I could find is Glenhunt 870, which is ~17oz. There are a couple of similar 12oz cloths from Hardy Minnis Worsted Alsport 2, but the price combined with the fact that it is labelled a tweed leads me to believe it's not that either.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Looks like Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth 25347Ph, but may not be the same thing.

 

[ericgereghty]

Where would I be able to purchase this fabric? Or would I have to go through my tailor?

Might be best to inquire...they have a "cart" option, which, admittedly, may be available only to trade, but it may allow you to purchase direct...

 

[arcfire]

Might be best to inquire...they have a "cart" option, which, admittedly, may be available only to trade, but it may allow you to purchase direct...

Yeah, I've dropped them a message. Tried to register but realized that it required some company information.