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Understanding twill weaves


Senior Member
Sep 30, 2019
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I'm aware there are many twill weaves, however I've noticed a lot of twill shirts that aren't denim, puppytooth or herringbone simply labelled as twill. I did read that drill can be used as a shirting, but I've seen conflicting things about whether it's a common one or only specifically a heavy twill for work shirts. When there is a shirt advertised like that, such as this shirt, how do I tell what kind of twill it is?

In addition, I'm aware that historically tartan meant a fabric woven in a 2x2 twill where one thread was advanced at each pass. Is there any modern name for a twill weave like this? I presume how many advanced at each pass determine the steepness of the twill? Is flannel woven in a specific twill and then brushed?

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