Understanding Terminology: Fit, Cut, Tailoring

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

I would love very much to understand the differences between terms that refer, seemingly, to the same thing. However, I assume there are important differences.

What precisely do terms like fit, cut, tailoring and any others I may have missed mean?

Thank you.

 

[GBR]

We don't have enough bandwidth.

 

[GBR]

Curiously I have come upon a glossary of sorts on a less good website for a poor tailor in Hong Kong, long on words, short on evidence of quality. Sadly it mixes shirts and suits although I have tried to remove the shirt terms. It is not especially helpful as it only names the baste fitting omitting reference to the forward and fin(ished)bar fin(ished) fitting. It also omits detail of half and full canvas which would be more helpful than a description of a loom!

Others might highlight cloth types which maybe of interest to you but I suspect that you are looking at the features of a garment.

Best I can do I'm afraid, I have never had any urge to write down the various terms as a list I have learned since I had my first bespoke suit from my late father's tailor 59 years ago.

TAILORING GLOSSARY

Baste – loose assembly for first fitting
Balance – adjusting front and back length according to posture
Bespoke – items made from scratch to specific measurements and requirements
Blazer – Casual woolen jacket
Block – thick block of wood for pressing to set or seal the steam
Cabbage – left-over material that the cutter keeps
Canas – wool or linen canvas used to add body to jackets
Cashmere – luxury fiber from Falconeri goats
Cummerbund – a waist sash often worn with black ties
Dinner suit – worn for formal occasions including weddings
Drape – the way a fabric hangs
Fabric – Yarns or fibers woven together
Flannel – woolen yarn slightly twisted and open-textured
Four cord – strands of thread entwined and sealed for sewing on buttons
Gimp – thread for buttonhole stitching
Gorge – the notch formed where the collar attaches to the lapel
Harris Tweed – woven tweed from Scotland
Hem – fabric at the bottom of item turned up
Houndstoot – design in small broken checks
Inlay – extra fabric in a seam to allow alteration in future
Jetted pockets – pocket with no flap Actually vague descriptor as a jetted pocket can have a flap. No mention of welt pockets.
Loom – machine that weaves cloth
Made to measure – garment from standard pattern made to precise measurements
Master tailor – business owner who employs tailors
Melton – the felt under a jacket collar
Merino wool – super-silky; the finest commercial sheep wool
Mohair – lustrous fiber from Angora goats
Morning suit – daytime formal attire with tailcoat and waistcoat/vest
Notch lapel – standard lapel with notch cut out
Optima – cotton used for pockets, banding and sleeve cuffs
Peak lapel – standard lapel in a peak for double- breasted suits
Pleat – flat fabric allowing extra room in item Too vague and does not deal with forward/reverse pleats or 'flat front'.
Satin – smooth, glossy fabric
Savile Row – street in London home to British tailoring
Scye – jacket armhole
Tactile property – the way an item fits Oh, new one on me.
Tailor – makes, repairs, and alters clothing
Tuxedo – US term for formal evening jacket
Tweed – woolen weaves originally made in Scotland
Vent – **** in back of jackets or coats
Waistcoat/vest – sleeveless items worn with jacket
Warp – vertical threads
Weft – horizontal threads
Worsted – light cloth made of long staple combed woolen yarn
Yarn count - denote the size/weight of yarn
Yarn – length of fibers and/or filaments with or without twist.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

Thanks for sharing that. Some pretty helpful bits there.

Since the terms "fit" and "cut" aren't mentioned, can anyone speak to whether these terms can be used interchangeably?

 

[GBR]

Thanks for sharing that. Some pretty helpful bits there.

Since the terms "fit" and "cut" aren't mentioned, can anyone speak to whether these terms can be used interchangeably?

These are not interchangeable although many people will have differing interpretations. The 'cut' refers to the manner in which the cloth is cut, thus your cutter's interpretation of your measures and figuration and the intended shape/appearance of the finished garment. Do not confuse with 'style' which is very different.

Fit refers to how a style or cut fits your body (not mine, yours) and the ultimate objective.

Whilst we are at it, do not confuse your cutter with the tailor. Many people make the mistake of thinking the man you meet is your tailor. Whilst he will likely have some skills in tailoring, he is you cutter who drafts the paper pattern and cuts the cloth. The tailor is the person who sews it all together. Many tailors specialise is elements of a garment and a good cutter will allocate the cloth bundle to appropriate people. You are also very likely hear the term 'alterations tailor'. That person is not some oik with a sewing machine at a dry cleaners or a dingy shop. An alterations tailor in this sense is a very skilled person who specialises in the minor 'tweaks' which are found to be beneficial at the later stage, typically at fin-bar-fin. Should you later find that your waist or whatever has contracted or, more likely, expanded your garment will very likely be sent to an alterations tailor as they are best qualified to make those changes.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

That's precisely what I was hoping to figure out, the distinctions you just clarified. Thanks a lot!