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UNCOMFORTABLE TROUSER BUTT AND its APEARANCE

a tailor

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there is no nice way to express it except to say it.
the trouser is riding up the butt crack.
there are three causes 1. the back fork is too tight or
2. the center back seam is too crooked or
3. its both at the same time.

shown are the positions of the original trouser seams
they are marked A.

the cloth marked B. is used when the cause is tightness
at the back fork/thigh the fork is then let out.

when the trouser has plenty of ease and the problem is still there
the angle of the back seam is too crooked .
a new seam C. is used to to correct this.
the excess cloth here is cut away, that gives the extra room.
tailors call this scooping out the seat.

line x represents the bottom of the rise.
the alteration should not go below this line.
except when the rise is too shallow and needs to be deepened.

 
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Aloysius16

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I have been searching for advice around this issue and found this old post. I must say it has left me confused as most other advice I have seen has suggested that the more crooked the seat angle the more fullness there is around the base of the seat. But this seems to suggest the opposite. Is anyone able to clarify?
 

Despos

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When you want more room at the base of the seat; making the seat seam crooked helps. This is applied when making a pattern and or cutting the trouser.

The adjustment above is in the context of creating more room in the lower seat as an adjustment/alteration to a finished garment when you only have outlets to work with. More room/depth is needed from the front fork to the back seat seam. Letting out the crotch and shaping/scooping the seat makes the area deeper front to back. This is what you do if the trouser fits with a wedgie.

In the context of pattern making you want to increase the stride with a prominent seat. You are increasing the area from the crotch point on the back part to the top of the back part at the outseam. Picture an arc between those two points. The seat seam is more crooked and the outseam on the back part is more open.

Using fewer words. Use the above example as an alteration if you need more front/back room in the crotch and seat.
Crook the seat line if you are making a pattern or cutting for a prominent seat and want to increase the stride across the seat.
 
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