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UNCOMFORTABLE SHOULDER? forward shoulders

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, Sep 2, 2012.

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  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Is this solution will fix the shoulders of this jacket?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Betelgeuse
    The picture does not have much detail, so its hard to say.
    Can you give us something better?

    Also, it looks like you have a right low shoulder.
     
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Yes to the right low shoulder. Let me see if I can get a better pic next time I wear it. But I thought the slight bumps in the shoulders were very noticeable. [​IMG]
     
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Tried to get a betterpic, but can't get it right, I think in this one you can see it.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes betel
    its a bit better.looks very much as a fore ward shoulders problem.
    check for the tutorial "fore ward shoulders". have your tailor do that alteration.
    this will not change the low shoulder.
    if you will notice the right breaks more than the left, thats because of the low shoulder.
     
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was imagining that this problem was "somatosensory" i.e. something that could only be diagnosed by feel of the wearer. But you can diagnose the issue by looking as well? So can I ask for help. I see a little bit of rumpling near the shoulder, but those are not divots. Is that the issue? Or the very slight, to my eyes, break in the shoulder lines? It would be too much to ask for an arrow pointing to it.
     
  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Is this one, right?

    [​IMG]
     
  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes betel thats the one.

    See in the picture the hump seems to have a twist to it.

    The success depends on there being 3/4 nch or more of usable cloth
    underneath the collar at the neck.

    good luck

    Alex
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes TP, its just what you describe,.
    If you can go back to other posts like this and photos are there you will
    see the problem in a more pronounced state.

    Please have pity on me, cause i am a very old man just barely able to
    get in and out of the net. put an arrow in a pic? no way to do!
     
  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks a lot Alex! Will try to talk to my tailor to see if he can do it. The side seams don't need to be touched right?
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Alex
    It's great that you're here to impart to us your expertise. I'm grateful. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013
  12. 123abc

    123abc Active Member

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    I'm ressurecting this thread on "forward shoulders" as I have that issue and finally found this good discussion of the problem and solution. The diagram for the "fix" seems backwards to me, but I'm sure not a tailor - just can't picture how that would move the shoulder forward, unless the re-attaching the the suit pulls it in somehow.

    Anyhow, has anyone tried this forward shoulder fix? Any idea what a tailor might charge for it?

    Also, has anyone ordered a MTM with a forward shoulder adjustment and had good results? Where from?

    Thx,
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The adjustment shown here creates a wider back and throws cloth over the shoulder point to create a bit more ease over the end of your shoulder. If you adjust a finished garment it may create enough change to fix the issue or may not be effective due to limitations of outlets and shoulder construction.

    Before you try this adjustment you need to be certain of what issue you have, You may have square shoulders that would create the same pressure on the shoulder point.
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi 123abc

    I have done a number of this alterations, on rtw and m2m garments.
    The customers usual response is," wow what a difference".
    What is important is that there is enough cloth under the collar to move out.
    At least 3/4 of an inch is needed.
     
  15. 123abc

    123abc Active Member

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    Hi. Thanks for the info. Can you give an approx. cost of this adjustment? it seems like a lot of taking apart and re-attaching work and also needing significant skills to accomplish. If I know a ballpark on cost I'll know if it's even worth considering vs a bespoke jacket or mtm that allows for this forward shoulder adjustment.

    Thanks so much.
     
  16. oldpreppyguy

    oldpreppyguy Member

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    I was pleased to see this thread resurrected as it addresses the primary problem I encounter in getting a better jacket fit. Unfortunately, however, I have had little success with both asking for the alteration on RTW and trying to accommodate it with MTM. With my last MTM, I was finally able to get my low right shoulder recognized but not its forward pitch. Is there some other manner of explaining/obtaining an adjustment that might still work? Increasing the half-back on that side perhaps or asking for additional outlet through the front of the shoulder for subsequent alteration? When I asked for the shoulder to be "shifted" on an earlier MTM to account for the forward shoulder they ended up "crookening" (?) it, making the garment almost impossible to wear.
     
  17. 123abc

    123abc Active Member

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    Hey, oldprepguy, let me know if/when you find a solution to this as I have finally figured out no OTR suit will ever sit on my shoulders right and alterations for this are complicated and iffy for results (based on what others have said). Maybe MTM can address it but I think most people just don't even know that this is their issue with suit jackets.

    I do find that the jackets sort of mold to my body a bit and feel like a better fit over time, especially nicer made ones.
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quote: The shoulder needs to be straightened not crooked
     
  19. oldpreppyguy

    oldpreppyguy Member

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    Chris:

    Would specifically asking the maker (Southwick) to "straighten" the right shoulder of the base model perhaps better convey my need than requesting that they "shift" it? I've been wearing their Douglas model for roughly 30 years and have only recently had to start asking for tweaks as my posture has changed with age and, coupled with a fair bit of slope overall, my low and forward right shoulder has become more pronounced. I know I probably should just bite the bullet and go bespoke - we have a very well known and respected tailor based here who you probably know that makes beautiful stuff - but I am stubborn and a little cheap when it comes to such things :)
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure you will get the result using Southwick. You have to decide between how uncomfortable it is wearing jackets that are tight on your shoulder and how uncomfortable spending more
    money would be.
     

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