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Tyrwhitt shoes

matadorpoeta

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i recently recieved the new charles tyrwhitt catalog. i've never ordered from them but i did request a catalog once. anyway, i like the black semi brogue shoe and wondered if anyone here could attest to the quality of these shoes. i know very little about shoe construction, but $190 doesn't sound bad for what they describe as being "handmade." They are Goodyear welted and made from 50 parts.
 

Stu

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I asked that question myself here about a year ago and no one knew. I called one of their reps and asked him who made them. He didn't know.

They are made in Northampton, where I understand many fine shoemakers are located. Perhaps they are made by C&J or someone. Bengal-Stripe: You have any info?
 

bengal-stripe

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I remember going to the Thrywitt shop (maybe prompted by Stu), to have a look. They are very ordinary, run-of-the mill entry-level shoes in corrected grain. (High gloss leather, also called "cobbler" or "bookbinder"). I don't know who makes the shoes, they could be manufactured by Cheaney or Loake, but they are definitely not by Crockett & Jones.

I don't like to put negative postings on this forum, (that's probably the reason why I didn't post) but the shoes are not superior to a pair of Bostonian or Florsheim. You will be much better off, spending a few Dollars more and get a pair of Alden or Allen-Edmonds. (Stay clear of corrected grain, it's nasty.)
 

mistahlee

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Kindly say more about corrected grain.  What has been corrected? How does one recognize it?  Wherein resides it's nastiness?
 

bengal-stripe

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Kindly say more about corrected grain.  
As they say in all the cookery programs: "Here is one that I prepared earlier" (posted here on 08/31/2003):

What's a corrected-grain virus?

Well, I don't know about the virus but "corrected-grain" is a way to make inferior leather look better. "Grain" are the pores on the flesh side of the skin; in a young animal they are very fine and very even. In the older animal they loose that look and also acquire scares from amorous bulls and the general rough and tumble of a cow's life. Therefore you sand off the outer grain layer and create a new surface with rollers, heat, waxes and (usually) a coating of plastic as well.

You end up with a high gloss, shiny leather, usually called "bookbinder" or "cobbler", so beloved by nightclub bouncers. That leather does not acquire a patina with wear, it just gets more and more ugly as it gets older. Most cheap shoes, and unfortunately a number of expensive ones as well, are made in corrected-grain.
 

mrprlover

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Most cheap shoes, and unfortunately a number of expensive ones as well, are made in corrected-grain.
You have any names (brands) in particular that I should steer away from or towards?

Also...how can you tell if the shoe is bookbinder or cobbler? Does the shiny-ness automatically place it in that category?

rook-E
 

matadorpoeta

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thank you for the quick replies. there was something i didn't like about the shoes, but i couldn't quite put my finger on it. it wasn't the leather though--something about the stitching. i've become a mezlan fan recently, not for their quality, but because i like their designs. i'll have to keep looking. i've never owned a pair of semi brogues, but i'll look at the allen-edmonds.
 

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