Two-button shirt collars

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jester, Feb 3, 2005.

  1. jester

    jester Senior member

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    I have several shirts with two-button collars. Typically these have two buttons spaced extremely close, aligned vertically on the collar band; one of them has the buttons in a slightly slanted alignment. My first such shirt was from Robert Talbott; then my wife got me an Armani like this (which has a pattern not very conducive to neckties, so it matters less because I rarely button the top); then I tried a Jantzen collar because I liked the way it looked. I have finally come to the conclusion that I can't stand this. They are all incredibly difficult to button. This is particularly true for the one that's a little bit tighter than it should be, but really all of them are a pain. And I don't see any real advantage--they don't hold the collar any flatter, or anything like that. Is there any genuine functional purpose for this, or is it just to look cool? Have I had several rounds of bad luck, or just low finger strength and dexterity?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The theory, I believe, is that if the collar is unusually high (that is, the band is high, and the collar sits high on the neck), and you have only one button, then the button either has to be placed near the top, or near the bottom.  If it's up high, the pressure of the tie band (or whatever you call the part that goes around your neck) and knot can cause the collar band to buckle, and the collar to be pulled downward.  If the button is down low, then the tie might cause the collar to pull open and gape above the knot.  I suppose shirtmakers who use two buttons simply believe that there is no perfect middle.  Either that, or it's a gimmick.

    I have a long neck, so I get shirts with fairly high collars.  Some shirtmakers recommend two buttons.  I don't mind them, but I also admit that my shirts which don't have them don't suffer from either of the above problems.  Their collars are not so high, though.

    The highest collars in the business are the ones that Kabbaz makes for Tom Wolfe.  So, Alex, can you tell us how many buttons those take?
     
  3. boston

    boston Senior member

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    Yeah, they are for high collar bands -- one button would not be enough to keep the collar upright and closed.

    I agree, they can be a pain, but what else are us guys with long necks supposed to do?

    -boston
     
  4. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    The highest collar I've ever seen is this one worn by Karl Lagerfeld: [​IMG] Here's a picture of Wolfe: [​IMG]
     
  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I stand corrected. Kabbaz is gonna be jealous when he sees that.

    You can see why Wolfe gets tab collars. It's the only way to get the knot in place. That low hanging knot on Lagerfield looks silly. Of course, it could be argued that that's the least of his problems, style-wise.
     
  6. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I just got a very nice two button collar by Barba. The buttons are slightly askew to facilitate the buttoning, but is still a slight hassle. On the plus side, I find I don't need to limber up my fingers for practicing after wrestling with the collar buttons.

    koji
     
  7. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    Lagerfeld looks comical in a manner different from that of Wolfe, though the picture of Wolfe in a NY Times article from a few months ago was almost scary.
    As you pointed out, Manton, Lagerfeld would be better off with a tab collar so that his tie won't be forced to sit at the base of the collar band.
     
  8. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior member

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    That's not a collar Lagerfeld's sporting,it's a neckbrace with starch. [​IMG]
     
  9. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    MAnton
    None. They use two collar studs.
     
  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    One in the front and one in back, or two in the front?
     
  11. SartorialSplendour

    SartorialSplendour Member

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    I was sorry to see that Herr Lagerfeld was in a car accident. Must be a bonus of the trade that he can design a shirt collar to hide his whiplash appliance. I recall that Hockey Night in Canada commentator, Don Cherry, favored exaggerated collars, but not quite to the degree displayed by der Karl. He'd need more than two buttons on that expanse.
     
  12. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Wow. Nicely cut clothes, but ...
     
  14. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    On aug 25 2003 thracozaag wrote in this thread:
    Do elephants have good memory ? What about me then [​IMG] B
     
  15. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Busted, heh. To explain though, the tricky part isn't the fact that it's a double button collar perse, it's because the buttons are so damn thick (not that I'm complaining about that at all though)

    koji
     

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